Well, I FINALLY got the time to button everything up. Looks like my gamble failed. The Cometic did not work b/c I was stupid and didn't machine the head. I thoroughly cleaned it but still no go. Looks like I have to pull it all apart and wait until who knows when to get the money to get a stock hg and all the fluids etc.
Any thoughts? Could it be anything other than a bad seal? It is leaking oil (a LOT) from right above the coolant return on the block. I may pull off the valve covers and see if those 2 studs are the correct torque, but I am pretty sure they are. BTW, if you happen to be close to Texas, I may be selling, but not parting out, the car.
Head Back On (Finally), But Massive Oil Leak :(
-
boost_boy
- Posts: 7051
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
- Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
- Location: Miami, FL.
- Contact:
Re: Head Back On (Finally), But Massive Oil Leak :( (rico05)
If you put the headgasket on backwards, this will happen. The only way this thing will leak is that if your head or deck is warped. Remember, these engines were decked from factory and if that was the 1st time you opened the head up. It is good idea to to get them machined, but not always necessary.rico05 wrote:Well, I FINALLY got the time to button everything up. Looks like my gamble failed. The Cometic did not work b/c I was stupid and didn't machine the head. I thoroughly cleaned it but still no go. Looks like I have to pull it all apart and wait until who knows when to get the money to get a stock hg and all the fluids etc.
Any thoughts? Could it be anything other than a bad seal? It is leaking oil (a LOT) from right above the coolant return on the block. I may pull off the valve covers and see if those 2 studs are the correct torque, but I am pretty sure they are. BTW, if you happen to be close to Texas, I may be selling, but not parting out, the car.
Dee
Well, I am pretty sure that it was on there correct. The other thing is that there is a tab that sticks out on the Cometic (see pic) and the leak looks to be right there. Hmmmm....
At least I know that I am an ok wrench, because (once the fuel was flowing full stream) it cranked and ran like a champ It has been a month to the day since she last did that....
At least I know that I am an ok wrench, because (once the fuel was flowing full stream) it cranked and ran like a champ It has been a month to the day since she last did that....
-
240 Trainee
- Posts: 749
- Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2003 5:41 am
- Contact:
-
sideways danny
- Posts: 348
- Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 2:29 pm
- Car: s13, CA18DET
Well, here is another thought. My buddy mentioned that Hondas have a really high torque spec for reused head studs. This is the first time this head has been off, and they are the standard studs. I torqued them down to 76ft/lb (lowest of the stock specs). Should I consider new studs? Or going up to 88ft/lb (high spec in the FSM IIRC) Any thoughts are appreciated.
Re: (rico05)
You shouldnt reuse the OEM headstuds. They are torque-to-yield meaning they stretch when they are tourqed down.rico05 wrote:Well, here is another thought. My buddy mentioned that Hondas have a really high torque spec for reused head studs. This is the first time this head has been off, and they are the standard studs. I torqued them down to 76ft/lb (lowest of the stock specs). Should I consider new studs? Or going up to 88ft/lb (high spec in the FSM IIRC) Any thoughts are appreciated.
So is that my issue then? Do I need to fully repull the head to replace them, or can I just follow the pattern and swap them? I really want to aviod a repull if possible. That was near hell LOL.
I remember a thread when Dee said that when reusing stock studs (once and only once) to torque them down more and to not follow the FSM with the full tighten, loosen, and retighten. He said just torque em down., IIRC.
I remember a thread when Dee said that when reusing stock studs (once and only once) to torque them down more and to not follow the FSM with the full tighten, loosen, and retighten. He said just torque em down., IIRC.
-
sideways danny
- Posts: 348
- Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 2:29 pm
- Car: s13, CA18DET
Re: (c-rad)
standard bolts are NOT stretch bolts the FSM does NOT say they need to be replaced. The general opinion is they should be used no more than 3 times.c-rad wrote:You shouldnt reuse the OEM headstuds. They are torque-to-yield meaning they stretch when they are tourqed down.
I tighten to 103Nm (not sure on the conversion )
-
float_6969
- Moderator
- Posts: 17366
- Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
- Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily) - Location: Topeka, Kansas
- Contact:
Rico, I personally don't think this has got a darn thing to do with the torque of the headbolts, or whether they are the old ones or not. You should always have the block and head machined when you put in a new head gasket. This is ESPECIALLY important if the motor is constructed of dissimilar (aluminum head, cast iron bloc) metals. They expand and contract at different rates and are much more prone to warping.
Pull it back apart, machine the block and head, and put it back together with a new HG, with the headbolts torqued to the high end of the range. I'll bet you a case (30 pack) of beer it'll fix it.
Pull it back apart, machine the block and head, and put it back together with a new HG, with the headbolts torqued to the high end of the range. I'll bet you a case (30 pack) of beer it'll fix it.
MUWAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE!!!!Seems that the #4 in the retightening (the bolt right where the leak was) was not all the way tight. It was still at 22ft/lb! Tightened her down, and no leak. No smoke from exhaust, so no fluids in the combustion chamber! Now, I just need to replace that ~qt of oil that she hemmoraged, reset the timing, and boost off down the road!! Thanks for all the help guys!!!
IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE!!!!Seems that the #4 in the retightening (the bolt right where the leak was) was not all the way tight. It was still at 22ft/lb! Tightened her down, and no leak. No smoke from exhaust, so no fluids in the combustion chamber! Now, I just need to replace that ~qt of oil that she hemmoraged, reset the timing, and boost off down the road!! Thanks for all the help guys!!!
Re: (rico05)
You are such a silly bastard.rico05 wrote:MUWAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE!!!!Seems that the #4 in the retightening (the bolt right where the leak was) was not all the way tight. It was still at 22ft/lb! Tightened her down, and no leak. No smoke from exhaust, so no fluids in the combustion chamber! Now, I just need to replace that ~qt of oil that she hemmoraged, reset the timing, and boost off down the road!! Thanks for all the help guys!!!
-
r34 gtr
- Posts: 8909
- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 9:33 am
- Car: 98 Nissan Frontier XE 4x4
95.5 Audi URS6 Avant 5spd
03 BMW 330i ZHP 6spd
89 Nissan 240SX base CA18DET - Location: Creepin' in your crawl space
- Contact:
mine is leaking oil from exactly the same place. has been for a while now. it runs fine, but it leaks a little bit of oil wherever its parked. yeah, i know i forgot to machine the head.
anyway, i just wanted to say that if you really needed to, it can be driven. mine has great compression in all cylinders, but it just doesnt quite seal around the edge of the head, by the #4 cylinder.
- Tim
anyway, i just wanted to say that if you really needed to, it can be driven. mine has great compression in all cylinders, but it just doesnt quite seal around the edge of the head, by the #4 cylinder.
- Tim
