HCR 32 Help :)

A forum for owners and fans of the legendary Nissan Skyline and Nissan GTR.
kelaog
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:05 am
Car: 1990 r32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T

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Hey guys, I just stumbled on these forums today. I have had my skyline for about a month and a bit, and need some fluid changed before winter.

I have a 1990 GTS-T, pretty much stock. I used to own a probe and I loved working on it, but I don't know much yet...

I was wondering how you change the coolant on this car... I tried searching...no results.. Step by step would be nice

thanks guys :D


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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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drain it, flush it, fill it. It's pretty straightfoward. There is a lil plastic wingnut on the bottom tank of the radiator for the drain. Be sure to bleed the air out of the system when you are done. The 10mm bolt at the the top front on the intake manifold plunum that you were wondering "WTF is that for"? That is what it is for, it's the high point of the cooling system. Have fun.

kelaog
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:05 am
Car: 1990 r32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T

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Hm, I can't just bleed using the radiator cap?

Do I fill through that ? or the resevouir.

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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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no, air will cottect at the highest point of the system so the cap won't get it completely bled out. 20s run hot, they need every step taken to make sure the cooling system is operating well. You do fill at the radiator cap. Here is what I do.Fill at the cap till it's topped off.Run the motor until the thermostat opens. (you will see the water level suddenly drop and start to flow sideways)Top off again and put the cap on.Add water to the overflow tank.Start bleeding air out with the bolt until it's free of bubbles, tighten it down.The system is sealed and will stay air free unless the overflow tank goes dry and during an operating cycle it sucks some air in.

kelaog
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:05 am
Car: 1990 r32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T

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Okay, so I add straight 100% coolant to the Cap and only add water to the resvoir? or do I premix it. In British Columbia most cars should run a 50/50 mixture.

Thanks for all your help... I only ever worked on probes before, and rad cap was always the highest point

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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
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Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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The whole system should be at least 50/50. If you worked on the Mazda the Nissan should be easy.

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Gold Digger
Posts: 5823
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 8:48 pm
Car: Current:
2011 Infiniti G25X

Former:
1995 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec Midnight Purple
1990 Nissan Laurel Club S Turbo Two Tone Pearl

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kelaog wrote:Hm, I can't just bleed using the radiator cap?

Do I fill through that ? or the resevouir.
If you look at it at eye level, on a level plane, you will notice that bolt is slightly higher than the radiator cap. I just did my 20 about two months ago when I changed my radiator for a better flowing Koyo factory replacement. It takes a little bit of time, but it all works out good. My engine seems to run right at the normal temp, no cavatation in the pump either, although, there better not be, it's only about two years old...lol.

kelaog
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:05 am
Car: 1990 r32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T

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Okay, so not just water in the resevoir too. Just 50/50 the whole way, and everythings good :D.

My coolant is like 5/95 right now and it's olllddd stuff, I noticed in the mornings it really doesn't like starting at all now that the weather has gone bad. I'll be sure to get the guys to check over the ignition ground w hen they install my alarm :S.

I tried sanding the contacts on the ECU ground, it really seemed to help smooth out acceleration..

And yes, the Mazda was a *********** to work on, I'm excited about the skyline though, so much more room to do everything *love*. The alternator is in plain sight, not tucked away on the bottom of the engine against the passenger side wall like the probe . And no more CV shaft =]. Well, the rear ones, but there is no annoying engine/transmission/and midshaft in the way :D

go skyline :D

Just one more question, and thanks for all your help. How do you change the alternator belt on the skyline? Mines about to snap, and one of the puly's the belt is connected to is behind like three other belts :S.

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Gold Digger
Posts: 5823
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 8:48 pm
Car: Current:
2011 Infiniti G25X

Former:
1995 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec Midnight Purple
1990 Nissan Laurel Club S Turbo Two Tone Pearl

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kelaog wrote:
Just one more question, and thanks for all your help. How do you change the alternator belt on the skyline? Mines about to snap, and one of the puly's the belt is connected to is behind like three other belts :S.
I'm not a smart guy, but I would say, you have to remove the other three belts to get to the alternator...

kelaog
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:05 am
Car: 1990 r32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T

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that's so not what I wanted to hear, this job is going to be a bit.....

and it's not the belts you have to remove. It's the pully's

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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
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Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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You don't need to remove pulleys but you will have to get the other belts off too so might as well do them all. The AC belt tensioner is at the bottom, the PS pump is loosened underneath and through the holes in the pulley and the alternator needs to have the pivot bolt and the tension nut loosened. It's a 45 minute 2-beer project.

kelaog
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:05 am
Car: 1990 r32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T

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Ah that would work if I just removed the belts... I don't know why I didn't think of that durrr... it would slip ontop of the pullies lol... belts are magical that way :S..

anyways, I changed the fluid and everything went great except I couldn't get the 10mil off and ended up stripping it to hell.

Do you know what the dimensions on the bolt are so I can dremel it off and get a new one?? :S....

To vent the system I used the rad cap first, and then I removed the top hose to the left of that 10m bolt. I hope that did the trick :S

Seems to be cooling quite well though, a good 5 degree's cooler.

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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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If you can't get the bolt out you could put it on ramps to raise the radiator cap higher. I know it's like holding the lightbulb and spinning the ladder but there it is.

kelaog
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:05 am
Car: 1990 r32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T

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I'd rather just get a new bolt =/ I don't want my skyline to go down the same road as my probe. Everything rusted shut and imposible to work on.

Do you know the dimensions of the bolt? And wow that is a good idea, you're genious :D.


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