Having some problems with the safc or is it something else?

[s13drft89]

Hey,Well i finally got everything done in the engine bay, now its the safc. Well i was reading another forum, on how to set the decel settings. Well he had said on the post to put the ne1 to about 4 and ne2 to about 5 and then the throttle to 1%, and he said to start the car cold(over night rest), and from there change it to the decel in the safc, he said to start lowering the ne1 point until you get a smooth idle. I had started to lower it down and i went all the way down to 0 and the car still ran the same?????? He said that if you can put it down to 0 theres a setting or a problem wrong. heres my setupSSAC ManiT28 hybrid garrett370cc injectorssmic from sr piped and everythingwalbro 255apexi safc vr 13inch down pipe and elbowboost and a/f gaugeMegan fuel pressure regulator(that all comes to mind for right now)

Also my car is running super rich, i changed the o2 sensor and still nothing. I have the apexi down to -27 for low throttle and -15 for high throttle. Here is the site for setting the decel settings http://forums.freshalloy.com/u...73668 Please if anyone can help, iam almost done with this thing.-Ricky

Also forgot the mention its a KA24DE on a 93

[onosqv]

Megan fuel pressure regulator...Also my car is running super rich

Did you also get a fuel pressure gauge (or does the megan one come w/ one)? Do you have fuel pressure settings correct?

for your safc settings... you should already have a smooth idle to begin w/, and you are suppose to use the lowest number while still having a good idle, not to obtain a good idle. If your car doesn't idle correctly while it is cold in the first place - then you need to fix that problem first.

That is my interpretation of this link w/ info on how to set dec air:http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/64/47/

[s13drft89]

Well i have a great idle, about 1k. THe fpr is around 40-50ish psi, yes it has a gauge on the actuall fpr(thats where i got those numbers from). I did all the steps that it says up there or the site you sent me. Well i can go all the way down to "0" for NE1 and NE2 at the same time or at different settings say NE1-0 and then NE2-5, and the car idles the same. I check all my settings everything it correct, as well as it being hooked up the my harness. Any other ideas??-Ricky

[Chezedik]

Megan FPR comes with one.

[s13drft89]

With the gauge?Yea i know, the numbers that i had just gave you was the one as idle, with the vacuum line hooked up and unhooked.-Ricky

[s13drft89]

also my timing is set at 20btdc (stock), might that cause any problems for running rich? iam going to be getting my car dyno tuned, and do yuo think they will be able to play with the timing from the dist..??-Ricky

[s13drft89]

cmon guys ne help???????

[Ligouri Rd]

First of all how do you know you are running rich, do you have a wideband air fuel meter, if so what is the ratio? Under boost you should be no less than 12, at idle the o2 sensor will keep you at 14 or so. No wideband, go to a dyno that does.

The timing will have no effect on mixture. 20 degrees btdc is fine for under 7psi. Cut back a half degree per pound of boost over 7 psi.

I am assuming the reason you are messing with the decel air is you plan to run an atmospherically vented blow off valve. The way i understand the setup is you rev the motor up to your first ne point and record the air flow percentage. Next you rev the motor to the second ne point and again record the air flow percentage. Those air flow values get entered into the ne1 and ne2 for the decel air settings. The throttle point is where the decel air settings will go into effect. 1% is pretty much throttle body closed. The idea is that when the throttle body is closed and you are blowing out maf measured air that the safc will tell the ecu that not much air is coming in and cut back on the fuel it needs. No stall

If after messing with all of that you are still getting backfiring then you may have a torn o-ring on one or more injectors dumping raw fuel into the engine.