f*ck me...im at 20- Vac at idle...im assuming its suppose to be 15 or soarticzap wrote:So for a while I was having problems with my car. I knew its always been running rich but I always have very weird and odd symptoms of rough idle. No acceleration at times. Well my buddy Jay showed up yesterday to pick up some tires for drifting. I start it up for him. It sounds like its running on 3 cylinders and the vacuum is jumping between -10 and -15 inHg. So I pop the hood and hes looking around. Hes like it doesn't sound like its missing like I always thought. So he grabs the wires the I extended for the MAF and jiggles them. And what do you know, the car runs perfect. I had -20 inHg vacuum. Well I tore it apart today. And what caused these ****ty connections?
Me thinking it was ok to just twist the wires together and tape them. Oppps.
Lesson learned. ALWAYS solder connections.
sjbsuperman1425 wrote:congrats r34 gtr, you are the winner of a cold start issue CA18DET!! lol oh how these engines are just bundles of joy!!
you electrical tape the heat shrink? isnt that kind of over kill?r34 gtr wrote:Solder, then heat shrink, then electrical tape.
yeah shes at a constant 20- at idle...i only have issues in the cold....LOL--freakin aye...but i love my motor...i mights sell my s13....but im keeping the motr....i just hope it doesnt happenarticzap wrote:-20 inHg at idle is a really good running motor. -18 inHg is a motor thats starting to get worn down. Less then that and a rebuild should be considered.
yeah when i pull the motor im deffinetly cleaning up the mess of harness wire i haveMeanGreenS13 wrote:on my harness, where we shortened it, you will find every joint soldiered, and heatshrinked, and then 0 gauge heat shrink around 2 chunks of the harness to hold all the connections tight, and then 3 pieces of electrical tape holding them together
no bad connections for me =P