Have fuel, have excellent spark,But won't run..???

[Street_Science]

Ok so heres the deal , I have a 1993 240sx hatchback with a blacktop s13 sr20det, with a redtop s13 sr20det #62 and #63 ecu and redtop s13 harness and sensors....

I was told the original engine swapped was a redtop sr20det, long story short it blew up and the guy installed a 1998 type x blacktop s13 longblock .... He reused all the red top harness and sensors etc....

I drove the thing home 3/4 way then it shutoff.....

The ignitor originally had been swapped with an ignitor from a 1992 q45....

I tested it and the pins to cylinder 4 had been burnt, I installed a new ignitor from a 1995 q45
which is a different style ....

I rewired exactly how the other ignitor had been wired...

Now I am getting fuel and ignition, I just can't get the thing to run .... I don't even feel like its igniting the mixture at the right time... Would rotating the crank to tdc and removing/resetting the cas have any effect?...

Now I think that the maybe firing order is off due to wiring it wrong.....

My question is what is the wiring colors and pins to the coils and the fuel injectors.....
The color at my coil connectors and f.i are different than whats listed...

I have the 1995+ style q45 ignitor like this ..THe points towards the firewall right?Which engine harness wires do I Hook up
to the ignitor ?




I removed the original early 94- q45 ignitor like this
Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[Steady_One_S13]

N62 ecu is for a manual 5spd sr20 and the n63 is for an auto, iirc
coil to ignitor wiring
Coil Pack 1 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White pin1
Coil Pack 2 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red Yellow pin 2
Coil Pack 3 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White pin 8
Coil Pack 4 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White pin 9

injector wiring
Injector No. 1 drive output - White Black pin 101
Injector No.3 drive output - Green Black pin 103
Injector No. 2 drive output - Yellow Black pin 110
Injector No. 4 drive output - Blue Black pin 112

can't recall the wire colors for the q45 ignitor. The one in your pic (black one) looks like the plug and play one, 96+ q45 ignitor. But then, i could be wrong.
Make sure you ground it properly. I bolted mine on the p-side strut tower.
my 2cents.

[Street_Science]

Ok so I Installed a q45 95+ ignitor on my 93 red/blacktop sr20 as per the writeup on nico.....Its delivering an abundance of spark to each cylinder,
I checked for fuel, the pump is turning on, the fuel filter is filled with fuel, the fuel rail is fully pressurized, each injector is receiving a pulse from the ecu, each injector is working.....

I removed and re installed the cas as per the fsm procedure.....

The car is getting an ignition pulse , so obviously the cas is working and installed properly .....

The plugs are brand new , each coil has been replaced with a new one.....

I removed the catalytic converter think it may possibly be clogged, nothing , same failed result no start...

I swapped out the ecu, with two other ones with the same failed result.....

The engine has compression as it ran as of last week..... It sounds like it has compression, as its not just free-revving at starter speed....And I also checked the c/r did a cylinder leakdown test, thats fine......

It appears that the coolant temp sensor is left unplugged, the previous owner said that sr swaps are like that???.... its right by the cas left unplugged is this correct?

Even if so how would an etc cause a crank/no start?.......

I've tried to start it without the maf installed idk....

Ive even tried just plain ether , with the injector plugged/ then unplugged nothing????.....

Anything else you guys can think of?...... I keep hearing cas, but how would that be if I am consistently getting spark to each cylinder without interruption....

[PyR0NiAk]

Did you reset your timing when you installed the CAS? I know you said you followed the FSM procedure, but it's amazing how many people claim they follow the FSM and they only read part of it. Make sure you actually set your cams at 10 and 12 with the #1 piston at TDC. The coolant sensor should be plugged in. I have no idea why that guy thought it shouldn't be plugged in. Slap him and tell him he's an idiot.

[PyR0NiAk]

I told you before to STOP double posting. Topics merged.

[CRyan]

Defiently get a timing light on it and check for you 20 degree's, man.

and PLUG IN YOUR COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. There isn't any "SR's are like that." The ECU needs that sensor for something, or else they wouldn't have put it there.