Hatch light trouble

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
EvanW
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:43 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 - NA

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Hi All,

I have been trying to figure out how to get my hatch/trunk light to work properly. It wants to stay on all of the time. The only way to get it to shut off is to disconnect the wire from the latch mechanism. The wires seems intact and I cannot find any cuts or breaks. Is there a hidden switch somewhere that controls the power to this? Maybe something inside the latch mechanism? Is the wire that runs to the latch mechanism (not the lock mechanism) a ground? Seems like a strange connection at the latch. Am I making any sense? Lol!

Thanks for any help


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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Post

Well, the 2+2 hatch light runs off of the latch. If you're positive neither wire is grounding out and completing the circuit, then the only logical explanation is that the latch switch is busted.

(Sorry it took a while to answer, I must have missed this.)

EvanW
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:43 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 - NA

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Thanks Ace!

If I am reading this right then there is a switch within the latch mechanism? The only moving part on the latch is the swing arm for the lock release that is tied to the hatch cable. The electrical connector just clamps onto an arm that is fixed and unmovable. I have traced this connector wires back to the hatch light itself and there seems to be a green connector spliced into the same wire group. The connector looks like it should be there but all it seems to do is complete a circuit. If I unplug the connector the hatch light goes out and stays out. If I leave it plugged in the the light remains on regarless of the hatch being open or closed. This also causes the sucurity light on the dash to keep flashing when the all of the doors, hood, and hatch are closed and locked. All other interior lights are off as they should be though. Here are a couple of pictures to show the connector and wiring.

Image

Image

Thanks for any help,

Evan

EvanW
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:43 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 - NA

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I did a little more playing around after work and discovered that the latch seems to be the problem. The green connector and wire splice must be stock as when I move the arm switch on the latch I can hear the solenoid click on the drivers side and the hatch light goes out. The security light also goes out and the car can be armed. It seems there must be something missing from the latch assembly. Maybe a spring or and additional rod. There does not seem to be anything present to move the switch. Unless it is controlled through the internal mechanism when the lock is engaged? I don't know because I can't find any pictures of a fully functioning one. I had a spare from the wreckers but it is completely seized. Everything moves freely on mine, and like I said I can move the switch manually with ease. The hatch locks when it is closed and opens freely using the key and hatch cable. Just won't shut the damn light out. Any thoughts? Or does anyone have their panels off and can take a moment to post pictures of their latch assembly. Here is mine:

Image

Image

Thanks for any help,

Evan

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/300zx/1994/el.pdf

That's the only other piece of advice I can really give. The circuit is on page 38, and it's really really simple. Switch>Diode>lamp. I'll go pop my cover off real quick and upload a pic.

EvanW
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:43 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 - NA

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Thanks Ace,

looking over the diagram and comparing to mine it seems that all my wiring is in place and working properly. It must be something mechanical in the latch itself. If you pull yours off and use a screwdriver to "lock" your latch, does your switch arm swing away from the contact? If it does, then mine has something broken inside the latch assembly that won't force the arm to break the contact and therefore the circuit.

Thanks for looking,

Evan

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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I wonder if flickr imbeds work....

[flash=http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=109786]width="400" height="225" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=bbcfb8cee5&photo_id=8660946831" bgcolor="#000000" allowFullScreen="true"[/flash]


If not, click this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronparris/8660946831/

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Post

Yeah, you've got something disconnected in there, as you can see in the video.

EvanW
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:43 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 - NA

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Thanks Ace,

I'll have to find e new one from somewhere. Nissan Canada has once again given me the "sorry, too old" line. I see used ones on ebay but would hate to get another dud.

Thanks again!

EvanW
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:43 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 - NA

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I am such an idiot! I watched the video a few more times until it "clicked". Literally. Over time things tend to get a little "bent out of shape" I bent the lock release arm down closer to the latch body and guess what? Now when I engage the lock, the arm swings over and CATCHES the switch arm, pulling it away from the contact and opening the circuit! Fixed! I can't believe I wasted almost a week chasing down wiring to look for an issue when the issue was right in front of me! I have had wiring on the brain ever since I tore out the crap Bulldog remote start/power locks/power hatch release that was garbage installed and left me running a new hatch release cable and repairing a dozen or so splices. Car has been returned to stock and the built in alarm system now arms properly and the lights go out when everything is closed. Now onto the right rear totally bent lower control arm...

Thanks again Ace for taking the time and effort to help. The video was a super asset.

Evan

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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No problemo man! Glad I could help!


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