Has this ever happened to anyone before?????

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I''ve been trying to fix an abnormal bogging issue with my ka24de. it was running but not very well ,it was bogging when i hit the gas, and i was getting gas in my oil. sooooooooo i went and bought a compression gauge to check the piston rings and the car wouldn't start, I'm beginning to suspect timing but i know the crank pulley was set on the stock marking ( farthest to the right), and the distributor is in the #1 plug position, i know this has worked to at least get it running in the past, but now its wanting to sputter through the intake when I try to crank as if the timimg is on the intake stroke. can all of my problems be from the timing or could this be something else, i've already replaced everything nearly,sensors, fuel parts, etc. heres what is was doing in the past untill now, it not even starting.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiFS4wKx ... 170ad1a413[/youtube]

[ShouldaHadaV8]

well i turned the crank over twice to get it at TDC.. put in the distributor again, advanced the distributor all the way to the left after and it came close to starting again...... i think timing has been my problem this whole time. but thats still doesn't explain why the timing is fluctuating from being right, and then a week later when i try to crank it again its off. Even when i have it Idleing at 700rpms( according to ecutalk) i still cant get rid of the bogging.
I cant get this POS to work im about to junk the KA for a 5.7 350 or a 5.0 302, maybe find an ls1 camaro as a donor
Somebody please help me out I really dont want all this effort gone to waste, i want to at least blow it up with a turbo.

[Patarach]

Any Cel?

So are you still getting gas in your oil?

Also keep in mind that the computer can retard the timing, I would double check your spark plug connections thats actually what it sounds like would cause it to run like that. I doubt you would make that mistake though.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Well I just changed the oil so idk...but I assume its still a problem. I rechecked the injectors, they have no leaks and are all putting out the same amount of fuel.
Its not spark plugs or wires! All sensors are new.Im going to take more videos soon.

Noticable problems with the 240sx:
1)It is getting gas in the oil
2)The speedomter/rev/gas/ (ALL OF THEM) dont work, except little red light
3)And according to ECUtalk my ignition timing drops when I hit the gas, although i've been told "the ignition timing as you see it on that program could be dropping or acting excentric because of other problems"
4)Its missfiring,only when given throttle although it idles steady at 700rpms at 20btdc.

[Patarach]

Um ok I would say something associated with the knock sensor bc it would accoutn for the fuel and timing, but thats just what it sounds like to me. Im not sure why your gauges don't work assuming all the wiring leading from the ecu etc. is good I would say that your cluster is just inop.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I thought that too untill I replaced both engine harnesses ,the knock sensor ,and the ecu.
The dash was replaced by the last owner.and the cluster in an attempt to get the gauges to work.
Also I'm having to advance the timing on the distributor all the way to the left. I'm very confused because I've done this 100x. and it was never like this.But I have to get it running again to do a compresion test Once the engine is warm. I'm gonna play with it on my day off work. and i will buy a timing gun for when it is running so i can make sure of the timing

It could be the knock sensor ,but I traced the circuit of the wiring on my old harness it was pretty much directly from the sensor to the ecu. And I have already replaced every one of those parts???????so idk.

these cars have such bad wiring its hard to tell whats wrong, im spending so much money doing guess work for the past year I ould have paid for an rb26 swap or an ls1 6 speed. Instead i've got a half running ka with less than 155hp.just sitting at moms house.

[Patarach]

If you cant get the car running just do it cold, The numbers will be lower but it will give you an idea if you have a bunk cylinder or something. Um I am running out of ideas here because I haven't seen the car I guess just get the fsm and start going through troubleshooting tables and do sensor and voltage drop tests, can't really do much else.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Yep,
im gonna check the timing tomorrow. if I cant get it driving soon, its V8 time.
I've been over all that fsm trouble shooting blah blah voltmeter blah blah before multiple times very extensively. I have two of every part, and still cant figure it out. every time I buy a new part hoping it fixes the problem something else goes wrong
Im still not giving up, I refuse. Im just unsure of what the real problem is because it can be so many things. sadly I know this is a very easy fix, its something stupid.
I would say its bad timing but I've assumed this before, I went over procedure and It never fixed the bogging. I never used a timing gun because I didn't think I would need it.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

IT STILL RUNS ,timing is right,((((( the battery didn't have enough cranking amps....lols )))))
I didn't get time to do compression test but I will soon.
I'm now confused back to step one, but atleast nothing has really changed it still runs just like the video. I've been looking at buying a new car recently because its hard between me and my GF having one car, I've got about $3000 cash im thinking about getting the LS1. But if I can find out whats wrong and fix it .....we're gonna have another KA-T rolling around, which would make me really happy after all this effort, I would hate to part out the motor.
I cant find vacuum leaks Only one i know of is from intake mani. to the FPR, i replaced the coolant temp, tps, o2,knock senors, ECU, both engine bay harnesses,FPR,fuel pump,fuel filter, fuel lines, I tested the MAF sensor, injectors ( no leaks).
I dont know if a Bad piston ring would even make it run like that? I thought about replacing the pcv valve but i've never heard anything about them either? It sucks because i have the money to fix the problem what ever it may be ,but I dont know what else to do????? the only wiring I haven't replaced is the dash harness and body harness. I thought maybe i dont have enough ground wires but continuity is 0.00 at every ground so IDK. I've been asking this same question over and over again for almost a year

[liquid_cool]

there are a few things this could be...#1 id check! clogged exauhst system component...#2. injectors...thou they may not be leaking ..they may be stuck wide open..last but not least..the knock sensor and wires...might wana double test the maff just in case..get back to me on this issue and we can go from there.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Well if it was a stuck injector wouldn't it spray when primed due to it being stuck open????
My exhaust is ghetto with a bad leak but definitely not clogged
And I used a working maf sensor off a friends car and it had no effect

[jeu510]

pull your valve cover and check cam timing...even tho your distributor timing and crank timing may still be correct, one of your cam can still be off....

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I dont think thats the case. The car idles too good for it to be off a link and the chain doesn't rattle, I've taken apart a ka24de engine before and i know how they are supposed to look.

[NISMO24096]

Man, you still ain't got that car running....wow my parents were over here this weekend and told me about it...hey just a thought I had, be sure to check the wiring in the wheel well. maybe you got something thats wore through causing a short...never know...I will try and remember to call you tomorrow...i still got you number man...later and good luck, may the force be with ya...

[ShouldaHadaV8]

YEAH IM OFF TOMORROW, Gonna work on this heap, get up with me I have a few things to check as well im gonna give it my all

[BCNR13-specD]

ok, maf sensor could be it or tps. because the maf and tps work together to tell the computer what the engine load is so it can adjust fuel. if the maf isnt reading and you apply throttle the computer will dump fuel in by the gallon cause it thinks theres a huge load and if the tps is out of ajustment then it will have the same affect in the other way, lean. check those.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

hmmm.... I could see that being relevant, the tps sensor readings are off if I remember, I'll double check. but shouldn't the FPR fix that? I could see it being a problem leaning but im getting what appears as too much fuel, maybe washing past the rings.
But once again i have replaced the sensors, ECU, and wiring harnesses sooooo if the ECU is reading the sensors wrong I dont know what would fix it. im doing the compression test tomorrow, and i will try to adjust the sensors and record it all on video.

[liquid_cool]

doing a check up..i re-read this post..i just realized you did the timing off...yes the cam position is correct..BUT..you need to set the dizzy to fire #1 when the timing marks on the crank dampner are at 20 degree's Before top dead center...this is factory base timing..rite now..your firing at top dead center..not allowing for compretion of the fuel/air mixture and proper burn....go back throu the timing and remeber that the cams are set to TDC..but the dizzy is set to 20BTDC..good luck..and post back.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Yeah its set right at 20btdc with the distributor on the 1 position. I can't figure it out everything seems right. I'm still trying to find time to do the compression test.

[liquid_cool]

well..lets start at the basics then.......timing...air ...fuel..spark....we now know its not timing related..and you say you have fuel smell in your oil...that sounds like your not burning fuel..or your fuel loading the cylinder....the next thing i want you to look at would be the coil..and ignitor chip...test both of those and get back to us.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Ignitor chip????? I've never heard of this.please enlighten me
As for the coil, when i began this thread my battery was dead but showing 14v ( not enough cranking amps at the time) ,when i first tried to start the car it barely cranked, so i thought well the timing should be right so i checked the ecu for codes and it came back with the code for the ignition coil, It was unplugged ( by my brother without notification) so i plugged it back in, the code went awaybut the car still didn't start, then I realized it was the battery and felt pretty stupid
So is there any way to tell if thats the problem without just buying a new coil. thats no problem though honestly the coil and the distributor are one a few of the only things yet to be replaced. im running ngk plugs and wires ( avatar pic)
as for "air" there are no leaks around the intake or the manifold, and the emission have been removed the only vacuum i have is from the intk. manifold to the fpr but I havn't noticed any actual vacuum pressure but i could be wrong.( I've tested two new regulators)
I haven't replaced the coil, distributor, pcv valve, speed sensor, and chassis harness.... I think thats all thats left it could be besides something internal like bad piston rings but i know thats not the case, although im testing for it anyway.
Sorry about the novel, please tell me more about the ignitor chip?

[liquid_cool]

i dont have a pic handy but on an OEM set up..its the little 1 inch thing with a plug into it rite next to the coil...it's rare ..but they do go out..there is a test method to test your coil and that chip...i would allso try one last thing if none of those turn out to be the issue...try changing the ecu with a known good one...it may be a faulty ecu...i know for a fact that the injector block's do go out on them...keep us posted and we will try to help you more.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

yeah the "ignition transistor unit" apparently they're really hard to find new. Courtesynissan didn't sell them anymore. Im here with the car i was wanting to look how to test them in the fsm, but this computer doesn't have a pdf reader.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Compressoin test showed 175-180 across the cylinders

[pitchlock]

It almost sounds like a cylinder isn't firing. Did you check that?

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Like spark on the cylinders???? yeah I checked

[ShouldaHadaV8]

my spark plugs are kind of foulded....hmmm

Is this anything like the symptoms of a bad valve? And can someone verify for me that the ignition transistor is the same from 89-94

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Well I have a new coil and transistor coming , it should be on the car tuesday. $50 at the junkyard for both.
I figured it was worth trying

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I had to wait untill today to get the new coil and transistor, I dont think its going to make any difference but it was worth trying, we will see. My car now sits and dreams of the EC section of the fsm, wishing one day it can cruise the highways like it did in 1992. Im going to recheck everything from the sensor readings, to the vacuum lines, im also saving to buy the deatschwerks injectors although mine have no leaks. Im still thinking about buying a consult cable but im not sure if its worth buying right now, I think all I could use it for is sensor readings.

As stated in the EC section of the FSM my problem is only related to Spark, Air, Fuel, ignition coil/ transisitor ,and ECU. or bad valves. according to the " stalls when given gas or at constant speed" diagnosis step.

But like I said before I have whole other engine for parts, I have cash to buy new parts, and dont wish to pay a licensed mechanic to fix this car. Im counting on help from the NICO community. ( going on one year since the motor swap )

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I replaced the transistor, it had no effect.