Has anyone here used auto RB for 5spd

[JCAP_Tuning]

Wondering who in here has used an originally RB automatic and converted it to 5spd. I am just wondering what you did different with wiring and if you had any issues.

The reason why I am asking is that I used a RB25 automatic and put a RB20 5spd transmission on it. I am still using the auto ECU. I have been having some hesistation issues that are somewhat intermittent, seem to happen at a particular RPM range and/or TPS position. The hesistation is usually very brief and runs normal afterwards, seems to happen under boost and only at certain times which I cannot pinpoint exactly. It idles fine for the most part just hesistates almost like it is bogging down for a sec sometimes, which I am assuming is the ECU retarding timing momentarily.

I was thinking maybe it could be a TPS issue (automatic also has a throttle valve switch as well) or maybe that I am using an auto ECU.

Thanks.

[Nameless EJ6]

Good question and I hope to see it answered.

My RB25DET engine is auto, and was originally awd from a stagea. I hope I don't have these problems...

[rbsileighty]

I am pretty sure the "white plug" that is the plug that carries the majority of your auto control wires, if not all of them. Hybrid's had these control wires even though it was a manual from the factory, but I left them out due to the obvious fact that they are not needed.

After reading through some auto/manual posts... I don't see any problems wiring wise except the park lockout thing.

Has this always happened? It could be a fuel delivery problem depending on the situation... how old is your fuel filter? Might be bad gas... Hopefully this helps somewhat.

[JonPowell]

I have no problem, my clip came from an ECR33 Type M Automatic, I heard that there would be a problem, but there isnt. The only issue I have come across is in diagnostics mode, I get a code ...54...I think....Means the computer cant find the transmission, but the motor runs great. I would double check plug gap, maybe dirty injectors. I had no park lock out situation either... email me any question at [email protected] and we will se eif we cant work through it. I have had a myriad of small problems I had to work through...

[s14=pimpin']

hey man, I don't know squat about the rb motor, but your problem sounds similiar to a problem i had with my ka, it would bog down between 2800-3200rpm's, and once i go over 3200rpm's, power returned. it was an egr soleniod valve, located on the passenger side of the firewall, towards the back of the motor. there was a line that looked very similiar to the throttle cables inside the engine bay, except it is vertically positioned. i greased her up real good, and the power loss was gone. anyway, hopefully that helps somewhat, if you have a diagram of the motor, i can probably point out what i am refering to.

[JCAP_Tuning]

Alright, most of my problem was solved by the knock sensor wiring.

Runs good most of the time but I still get a very slight hesistation right after shifting, so I am thinking this is due to open atmosphere BOV or other airflow issue.

[JonPowell]

That would TOTALLY be froman atmospheric BOV. You are just running WAY rich after a shift.

[rbsileighty]

As long as you are not running anything to correct for the air you blowing off... I definitely agree this would be the problem.