hardbody reg. Cab Speaker box?
hardbody reg. Cab Speaker box?
anyone have any suggestion on how to get a single 10" speaker box behind the seat? it seems like it would have to be very shallow... more shallow than a regular truck box. anyone had experience getting a box to fit?
Re: hardbody reg. Cab Speaker box? (moc)
Each speaker on the market has a slightly different design that makes them more appropriate to certain box styles.
Band-pass, ported and sealed enclosures are the most common.
Whatever style you want, your design needs to adhere to specific box volumes so you get maximum kick with minimum distortion.
EG: A Phoenix Gold 8" driver with a 80Watt nominal capacity can get away with a 0.8 cu'ft enclosure. ( I know this because my Xtra cab Hardbody had one built into the jumpseat cavity on one side. It was powered with a 250 Watt amp that thumped all day long with no distortion or flutter. That sealed enclosure was the best I had for it's small size.
A 10 inch driver can get away with a long wedge shaped box that has 1.0 cu'ft of volume. If you go with a ported design you will need 1.25 cu'ft of volume. A Ban-pass needs even more and not all speakers are designed to work with a band-pass design. If you line a ported box with fiber glass you can make the speaker perform as if it was in a bigger box...that means the speaker can reproduce even lower range decibal frequencies. But there is a limit to the amount of fiber glass you can use. Usually a 2" lining is adequate
Here is some data on a 10" Kenwood Woofer.250mm(10 inch) subwoofer suitable for sealed / ported band pass type enclosure Peak input power 700W. Rated power 175W Injection PP cone 748g (26.3 oz) magnet Frequency response 35 - 1,000Hz Sensitivity 90dB/W at 1m Mounting depth 121mm Recommended sealed box 330 x 390 x 325mm, capacity 28.3 litres (0.999 cu'ft) Recommended ported box 340 x 455 x 330mm, capacity 35.4 litres (1.25 cu'ft) with 76 mm x 178 mm port
Yeah I know the dimensional stuff is metric but you can get a calculator to figure that out.
Most speakers have volume data on the packaging but a simple google search on sealed speaker enclosures can give you plenty of ideas. If you decide to have it built by a stereo shop expect to pay around $250.00 - $400.00 just for the box.
Things you need to know in advance.
What is the Peak Wattage of the 10" speaker?How much power do you intend to shove into it? A good rule of thumb is to hae a speaker that is rated LOWER than your amp. The logic of this comes from a sound engineer I know. If your woofer is rated lower than the amp, you don't need full volume on your deck to reproduce clean sounds. In fact you would be able to use less power to produce more sound. The other thing that can help is a speaker capacitor, but not all systems need that. This typre of item is used for high power systems and is typical of stereos that use 12" or bigger speakers. I saw a 30" driver that barely moved when it ran...it had single digit dB specs and you felt like your guts were being turned to liquid...it was so cool!
AND here's a link for some freeware on calculating box volume and styles.http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/index.php
Band-pass, ported and sealed enclosures are the most common.
Whatever style you want, your design needs to adhere to specific box volumes so you get maximum kick with minimum distortion.
EG: A Phoenix Gold 8" driver with a 80Watt nominal capacity can get away with a 0.8 cu'ft enclosure. ( I know this because my Xtra cab Hardbody had one built into the jumpseat cavity on one side. It was powered with a 250 Watt amp that thumped all day long with no distortion or flutter. That sealed enclosure was the best I had for it's small size.
A 10 inch driver can get away with a long wedge shaped box that has 1.0 cu'ft of volume. If you go with a ported design you will need 1.25 cu'ft of volume. A Ban-pass needs even more and not all speakers are designed to work with a band-pass design. If you line a ported box with fiber glass you can make the speaker perform as if it was in a bigger box...that means the speaker can reproduce even lower range decibal frequencies. But there is a limit to the amount of fiber glass you can use. Usually a 2" lining is adequate
Here is some data on a 10" Kenwood Woofer.250mm(10 inch) subwoofer suitable for sealed / ported band pass type enclosure Peak input power 700W. Rated power 175W Injection PP cone 748g (26.3 oz) magnet Frequency response 35 - 1,000Hz Sensitivity 90dB/W at 1m Mounting depth 121mm Recommended sealed box 330 x 390 x 325mm, capacity 28.3 litres (0.999 cu'ft) Recommended ported box 340 x 455 x 330mm, capacity 35.4 litres (1.25 cu'ft) with 76 mm x 178 mm port
Yeah I know the dimensional stuff is metric but you can get a calculator to figure that out.
Most speakers have volume data on the packaging but a simple google search on sealed speaker enclosures can give you plenty of ideas. If you decide to have it built by a stereo shop expect to pay around $250.00 - $400.00 just for the box.
Things you need to know in advance.
What is the Peak Wattage of the 10" speaker?How much power do you intend to shove into it? A good rule of thumb is to hae a speaker that is rated LOWER than your amp. The logic of this comes from a sound engineer I know. If your woofer is rated lower than the amp, you don't need full volume on your deck to reproduce clean sounds. In fact you would be able to use less power to produce more sound. The other thing that can help is a speaker capacitor, but not all systems need that. This typre of item is used for high power systems and is typical of stereos that use 12" or bigger speakers. I saw a 30" driver that barely moved when it ran...it had single digit dB specs and you felt like your guts were being turned to liquid...it was so cool!
AND here's a link for some freeware on calculating box volume and styles.http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/index.php
Re: hardbody reg. Cab Speaker box? (moc)
you could buy my snug lid and do a cut through.