Hardbody lower ball joints.

[bucstang1]

how difficult is it to change the lower balljoints on a 2wd hardbody?

[Big-Bird]

Things you will need:New Ball Joint...I recommend Dealer or TRW only.Ratchet and metric sockets 12mm - 19mmSplitter fork20oz Ball Peen hammer or other heavy hammer.Torque Wrench ( to put proper load on the ball joint nut)Safety glassesJack Stands and a floor jack.

Lets assume you know how to raise your vehicle and remove the wheels.



Put on your safety glasses. (Debris and metal shards can result from this repair.)

Raise the front of the truck and place the jack stands on the frame rail sections under the cab. You will use the floor jack to take the suspension load off the lower control arm. Make sure you leave enough room to get at the lower ball joint with a ratchet.

Pull the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.

Loosen the lower ball joint nut until you see 3-4 threads between the nut and the knuckle.

Insert the splitter fork horizontally between the lower ball joint and the knuckle.

Strike the handle end of the splitter fork with the hammer. The ball joint should release in one or two hits.

Remove the lower ball joint nut.

Loosen and remove the 4 nuts that secure the lower ball joint to the lower control arm.

Get your new ball joint and you may or may not need to install the grease boot and grease nipple.

Installation of the ball joint is the reverse of the removal.

You should secure the ball joint to the control arm first using the 4 bolts. Torque to 35-45 foot pounds.

Insert the ball joint pin into the tapered hole of the spindle. Install and tighten the lower ball joint nut to the specified torque. 87-141 foot pounds.

Install the new cotter pin that should have come with your new ball joint and put the wheel back on.

The Manual recommends you get an alignment done. I get mine done every 1-1.5 years. Saves the tires and keeps your fuel economy in check.

Total time to do a ball joint replacement is under an hour including the clean up!

[NM50]

2wd is a complete lower arm assy.They sell em but it ruins the arm trying to press them out.

[Big-Bird]

Doh...My book went to 1995 only....Assumed the 96 was the same. My bad!

[bucstang1]

Thanks for the info. Not sure if I want to tackle replacing the complete lower control arm. I'm not too familiar with torsion bars.

[jonathan1173]

I found out the hard way that they are an "integral" part of the lower control arm . I spent almost two hours with a press, cheater pipe and hydraulic jack before I gave up and found this post. I have one ordered from autozone for 75 bucks. I believe the other side of my re-bushing project will go much faster.

[Dattebayo]

2wd is a complete lower arm assy.They sell em but it ruins the arm trying to press them out.

Is this really true? I've read both yes and no by various sources, a straight yes or no answer would be really great.

[Rev_D21]

No, if you remove the snap ring the ball joint should press right out. I pressed and replaced them on my 1995. Will be replacing them on my 91 this coming Spring.

[Dattebayo]

Awesome. You save the day yet again. I am in the process of piecing together my own ball joint press consisting of a piece of metal pipe and a 10" C-clamp welded to some stuff. Pics to follow after I get to the welder...

Now if only it wasn't so damn hot out right now I could get some serious work done...

[KimosabeCode]

Good luck with this buddy. Just found out the hard way that mine was in bad shape a week ago as I was pulling into a friends driweway. (Luckily it was dirt) spent a good two hours with the press cussed and fussed but it does press in and out eventually.

[Dattebayo]

My local mechanic's shop told me that I need to soak the thing in PB blaster and possibly even torch the thing to get it out smoothly and quickly... thoughts?

[KimosabeCode]

I would agree with that unless you like feeling close to breaking something. The PB Blaster that is I wouldn't so much recommend the torch. It works but could end badly.

[Dattebayo]

Well I was only worried that I might deform something if I use the torch. I only plan on using propane, not MAPP gas or anything crazy like acetylene...

[KimosabeCode]

That shouldn't be a problem then. Just enough to pop her out

[Meleemaker]

I dont like resurecting old threads, but remove that snap ring and you SHOULD be able to press it out. Otherwise you may be able to set one smaller 16oz ball pein hammer with a larger 3lb...striking the smaller hammer. Just remember, slow accurate, and deliberate strikes are what works best, not going hog wild. Be careful not to hit too close to the edge or you will fold it over and have to grind it it down to remove it.

Lots of PB blaster

Press may or may not work.

I have had many pressed in ball points really stuck. I have had to heat them with torches, air hammer them, grind around the edges with die grinders, and basically never had any good luck with them. You DO have to be careful when heating them. Buddy was heating one up while I was working on the other. I heard a hiss. He stopped and started smashing on it with a hammer. Got the torch again and started heating it up and it SHOT the ball joint straight out the bottom of the socket and buried itself in the concrete floor. These things are VERY dangerous if you do know know what you are doing. But from there the joint itself folded it on itself and came out much easier.

[95tequesta]

Things you will need:New Ball Joint...I recommend Dealer or TRW only.Ratchet and metric sockets 12mm - 19mmSplitter fork20oz Ball Peen hammer or other heavy hammer.Torque Wrench ( to put proper load on the ball joint nut)Safety glassesJack Stands and a floor jack.

Absolutely agree. 2WD (RWD) 1997 I needed a 27mm for the lower factory nut.

Lets assume you know how to raise your vehicle and remove the wheels.



Put on your safety glasses. (Debris and metal shards can result from this repair.)

Raise the front of the truck and place the jack stands on the frame rail sections under the cab. You will use the floor jack to take the suspension load off the lower control arm. Make sure you leave enough room to get at the lower ball joint with a ratchet.

Pull the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.

Loosen the lower ball joint nut until you see 3-4 threads between the nut and the knuckle.

Insert the splitter fork horizontally between the lower ball joint and the knuckle.

STOP!! Don't go to next step until you know for sure you can get the nut off. Once you get the nut off, screw it back on and then continue to the next step. Otherwise you may not be able to get the nut off without cutting it. This is due to the nut and ball joint turning together. I found out the hard way.

Strike the handle end of the splitter fork with the hammer. The ball joint should release in one or two hits.

Remove the lower ball joint nut.

Loosen and remove the 4 nuts that secure the lower ball joint to the lower control arm.

2WD (RWD), you will have to hit it out with a hammer or you can use a press ( I suggest this http://www.jeepz.com/forum/attachments/ ... t-tool.jpg)

Get your new ball joint and you may or may not need to install the grease boot and grease nipple.

Installation of the ball joint is the reverse of the removal.

You should secure the ball joint to the control arm first using the 4 bolts. Torque to 35-45 foot pounds.

Insert the ball joint pin into the tapered hole of the spindle. Install and tighten the lower ball joint nut to the specified torque. 87-141 foot pounds.

Install the new cotter pin that should have come with your new ball joint and put the wheel back on.

The Manual recommends you get an alignment done. I get mine done every 1-1.5 years. Saves the tires and keeps your fuel economy in check.

Total time to do a ball joint replacement is under an hour including the clean up!