Hard Water Spotting
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infinitinut
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 2:21 am
- Car: golf
Hard Water Spotting
One of my vehicles has some really encrusted hard water spots. I have tried a host of liquid products, with no success. The only thing that seems to cut through is rubbing compound, and that is a real PITA! Comments?
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AZhitman
- Administrator
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- Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
- Location: Surprise, Arizona
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Mother's (or Meguiars) Clay Bar - Should be PRODUCT OF THE YEAR.
Use with liberal applications of Meguiars Spray&Shine or Mother's Showtime. Both are the "lubricant" that you use with the claybar.
Not only will it take off the spots, it'll remove any other embedded paint contaminants, bug residue, paint overspray, sap, bird poop, etc. etc.
Throw the rubbing compound in the garbage.
Use with liberal applications of Meguiars Spray&Shine or Mother's Showtime. Both are the "lubricant" that you use with the claybar.
Not only will it take off the spots, it'll remove any other embedded paint contaminants, bug residue, paint overspray, sap, bird poop, etc. etc.
Throw the rubbing compound in the garbage.
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infinitinut
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 2:21 am
- Car: golf
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Highway Q45
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 8:29 am
- Car: Auto-X, Porsche 944's, woodworking, GreaseSlinger
Ditto AZ's suggestion..great product. Just make sure you keep plenty of "lube" between the clay and paint. You also need to always keep a clean surface exposed on the bar by kneading it. The clay bar should get the surface very smooth and prep it for Zaino, wax, or your polymer of choice. Believe it or not I've had good results out of the generic Pep Boys clay bar for much less than Meguiars. Just remember to keep that bar lubed and clean, especially on clear coats.
If your glass is also badly spotted I like to mix up 1:2 vinegar/water and place single sheet newspaper over the glass. I then soak the paper with the solution and let it sit in the shade and keep it moist for 1/2 hour, peel off paper and rinse well. Gets most of the hard stuff off. Finish the job with a good 3M glass polish.
Good Luck
If your glass is also badly spotted I like to mix up 1:2 vinegar/water and place single sheet newspaper over the glass. I then soak the paper with the solution and let it sit in the shade and keep it moist for 1/2 hour, peel off paper and rinse well. Gets most of the hard stuff off. Finish the job with a good 3M glass polish.
Good Luck
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infinitinut
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 2:21 am
- Car: golf
You are really on the right direction with the Clay to go after those water spots !
Some really good threads to search on Clay Bar uses can be found at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/...sages -
Actual history of Clay Bars: was developed by our own beloved Japanese engineers to remove paint overspray from all those GREAT cars on the line ! Waterspots shouldn’t be much trouble unless you burned the H20 into the clearcoat - and then you probably need a Pro finisher or read up on Clay / Cutters / Swirl Removers / Glazes / Waxes . . . at the above board frequented by some real pros in the detailing biz - They should be able to go into detail on gettin’ your Q back into showroom shape !
One caveat : Save yourself $$ - don’t spend the money on Lube sprays, Quick Detailers, . . . - just use a spray bottle filled with a water/liquid car wash mix and save yourself the $$ and grief !
My own detailer uses running water from a hose off a water softener - no lube - and tears his clay bars into thirds for use on each car - I use the Schlegel bars from Japan myself !
Some posts that might steer you right -______________________________________Another Opinion - My Detailer (Used by many of the NEW car dealerships !) here in SD uses just plain running water after breaking up his clay into one time use sizes - while I like the idea/cost of the water/dishwashing mix, water alone appears to be completely effective (perhaps just practice developing a "Feel") and makes it appear that the admonishments to "only" use with high/overpriced detailing sprays are over-exaggerated -
Anyone with specific info from the chemistry side that knows what the original Japanese manufacturers used for their overspray removal work ?
If clay is NOT an abrasive that only "pulls" up the contamination from the surface vs being a mild abrasive in its own right - why are there different grades such as Schlegel's fine/medium ? ? ? ? I don't believe all of the "swirls" and "scratches" left by claying are just from trapped contaminants re-scratching up the whole shooting match -
BTW - the Schlegel Fine Grade I have says "Made in Japan"
JMHO_______________________________________ Here is a standard answer that I have for folks on using clay. You have to start with a clean surface.
Wash your car using Dawn liquid dish detergent. This will get rid of any wax or silicone on the paint. Prepare a spray bottle with a couple of ounces of your favorite car wash soap and fill with water ... preferable distilled water from the grocery store.
Put your hand in a sandwich baggie (the very thin kind, NOT a ZipLoc), spray a small area of your paint with the soap/water solution as a lubricant and lightly run your hand over the paint. Any contaminants will feel like huge bumps through the baggie!
Use your claybar lightly on any areas that feel bumpy ... and use plenty of lubricant. No need to use the expensive lube sold for use with a claybar .... your car wash solution is just as good, but use it very liberally. It's much less expensive than your paint!
After finishing the claybar process, then wash the car again with your favorite car wash solution. Use longitudinal strokes on the horizontal surfaces, and vertical strokes on the vertical surfaces.
A little caution with the claybar: Do not be tempted to save a couple of dollars by using the least expensive clay. Any of the $15-$20 clays are fine. As you use the clay periodically stretch it out and refold it to always present a clean surface to your paint. If you drop the bar, then throw it away! Always use a lot of lubricant and a light rubbing motion ...be gentle with your paint. :nono
Craig (NM)
Some really good threads to search on Clay Bar uses can be found at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/...sages -
Actual history of Clay Bars: was developed by our own beloved Japanese engineers to remove paint overspray from all those GREAT cars on the line ! Waterspots shouldn’t be much trouble unless you burned the H20 into the clearcoat - and then you probably need a Pro finisher or read up on Clay / Cutters / Swirl Removers / Glazes / Waxes . . . at the above board frequented by some real pros in the detailing biz - They should be able to go into detail on gettin’ your Q back into showroom shape !
One caveat : Save yourself $$ - don’t spend the money on Lube sprays, Quick Detailers, . . . - just use a spray bottle filled with a water/liquid car wash mix and save yourself the $$ and grief !
My own detailer uses running water from a hose off a water softener - no lube - and tears his clay bars into thirds for use on each car - I use the Schlegel bars from Japan myself !
Some posts that might steer you right -______________________________________Another Opinion - My Detailer (Used by many of the NEW car dealerships !) here in SD uses just plain running water after breaking up his clay into one time use sizes - while I like the idea/cost of the water/dishwashing mix, water alone appears to be completely effective (perhaps just practice developing a "Feel") and makes it appear that the admonishments to "only" use with high/overpriced detailing sprays are over-exaggerated -
Anyone with specific info from the chemistry side that knows what the original Japanese manufacturers used for their overspray removal work ?
If clay is NOT an abrasive that only "pulls" up the contamination from the surface vs being a mild abrasive in its own right - why are there different grades such as Schlegel's fine/medium ? ? ? ? I don't believe all of the "swirls" and "scratches" left by claying are just from trapped contaminants re-scratching up the whole shooting match -
BTW - the Schlegel Fine Grade I have says "Made in Japan"
JMHO_______________________________________ Here is a standard answer that I have for folks on using clay. You have to start with a clean surface.
Wash your car using Dawn liquid dish detergent. This will get rid of any wax or silicone on the paint. Prepare a spray bottle with a couple of ounces of your favorite car wash soap and fill with water ... preferable distilled water from the grocery store.
Put your hand in a sandwich baggie (the very thin kind, NOT a ZipLoc), spray a small area of your paint with the soap/water solution as a lubricant and lightly run your hand over the paint. Any contaminants will feel like huge bumps through the baggie!
Use your claybar lightly on any areas that feel bumpy ... and use plenty of lubricant. No need to use the expensive lube sold for use with a claybar .... your car wash solution is just as good, but use it very liberally. It's much less expensive than your paint!
After finishing the claybar process, then wash the car again with your favorite car wash solution. Use longitudinal strokes on the horizontal surfaces, and vertical strokes on the vertical surfaces.
A little caution with the claybar: Do not be tempted to save a couple of dollars by using the least expensive clay. Any of the $15-$20 clays are fine. As you use the clay periodically stretch it out and refold it to always present a clean surface to your paint. If you drop the bar, then throw it away! Always use a lot of lubricant and a light rubbing motion ...be gentle with your paint. :nono
Craig (NM)