Hard to start cold, battery dies in 1 min trying...

[Lopin18]

Soo im sick of testing around....

When the car is cold, i put the key on on, efan comes on normally, all hud lights normal, Try to start and it tries to crank mid speed, then starts slowing down real fast, lagging like 3 secs between crank spin sounds... sometimes tries to start like getting to it but puff slows, until it just Clicks, i try to start agian and its REEEALLY slow turning and puff clicks, then the efan sounds weeeeak, and the hud lights really weakened... Battery charge goes to crap... but if i put it a good battery VROOMMM real fast, also when its hot with my battery it starts real fast

i tested the parasitic drain thing, with a tester on the Negative cable (unplugged it from bat) and the negative terminal of the battery on the 9v Battery option (i didnt get any readings with any other option on the tester) and got around 9.Xv or sometihng, but i wonder... cause my battery was ok all lights ok efan spinning ok before i try to start cranking

Hmmm so what can it be???

also is the automatic starter usable on the manual transmission???

[s13_chris]

i Have the same problem but mines more of a once run hot and sits tell really cold it won't start. I don't know either but maybe a stronger battery is in order for me and you haha. Mine will just keep cranking as if no spark/fuel. If I figure out why I'll be sure to let you know.

[Lopin18]

Anhh i think when im stressed out i get dumb enough and annoyed like to come here..... nevermind i think its just my stupid battery or i have a parality drain, HELL i dont know now, cause i tested the battery with a tester and the only option i GOT a reading of SOMETHINg was one that says Battery 9v..... and got 9v from the cable to the negative terminal,

God damnit, NEW BATTERY FTW !@$!@$ THIS damn i wish i had a magical 240sx analizer utility or something...

[Vegascorbin]

if you are only getting 9 volts from your battery I am suprised it evenb tried to start.

Replace the battery and then once the car starts you should mesure 14.x volts feom Positive to Negitive on your battery with the engine running at an idle. If not have your Alt. checked.

[Lopin18]

No no, im not meassuring from the + to -, im testing parasitic draw, i take the negative cable off, and i test from the disconnected cable to the negative terminal to see if i get readings, the only option that got reading was Bat 9V option on the tester, got 9 and such....

i gotta get a diff tester...

[Cone Junky]

I don't know what kind of "tester" you have, but it's wrong. Also, you are not testing draw properly. You are basically doing a voltage drop test, not a drain test.

You need a meter that measures amperage to test for draw.

BTW- everything you described is the symptoms of a bad battery. if you aren't sure, take it to any auto parts store and they will test it for free

[Lopin18]

jesus... i dont know whats wrong with all of it

Yesterday i couldnt even open the car with the alarm, no click or strength to open the locks, so i had to crawl from the trunk (yeah i dont have working locks, protection? O.o hehe) and suddenly today the battery opened the locks just fine like it just came back alive or something......

Im starting to think that maybe i also have bad cable terminals, im gonna change the terminals too just in case im having a weak terminal conection or something (i remember when i was automatic i would have that problem, i turned the key and PUFF dead, just click noises and i had to go and move the terminals to get it to work YAY i think thats it, but new battery mofoca...)

[ricebike]

cause i tested the battery with a tester and the only option i GOT a reading of SOMETHINg was one that says Battery 9v..... and got 9v from the cable to the negative terminal,

God damnit, NEW BATTERY FTW !@$!@$ THIS damn i wish i had a magical 240sx analizer utility or something...

ummm, your tester has a little square 9v battery? it's saying to change the tester's battery!



start w/ a battery VOLTAGE reading + / - and let us know... it should be at least 12V, if you can get it started and running, it should go up to ~14.xx V

then, when you do that parasitic drain test w/ the - cable disconnected, turn the tester's dial into milliAMPS and should be getting a low reading...

[Lopin18]

Dumb me, i forgot to add those data:

When i test my battery when the car is already running, i turn off, and i get 12.X volts, when its on 14.3 or something, thats just fine.

im gonna get a REAL tester cause this one didnt read **** in any other option, i went to wikihow to check power drain.

says turn car off, 10 mins after, disconnect the negative cable from battery, then go and put one side of the tester on the disconnected cable and the other one on the negative bat terminal

I did that, put the ****ing tester in AAAAALLLL options and didnt get 1 reading XD

New tester comming :P

im getting my battery changed, terminals too and then ill messure it all so its all good and dandy