2007 infiniti g35 sedan 6 speed, car is throwing p0345 code, I have new cam sensor, even swapped bank 1 to bank 2 cam sensors still get code, new crank sensor, did engine flush oil was clean, slip light and vcd light stay on and seems car is stuck in limp mode, I can clear check engine light but others stay on. car sometimes will rev past 3500 but usually wont. on a cold start up engine sounds like a diesel truck but then sounds fine in a few minutes. also installed a new vct solenoid. I bought car from a friend really cheap cause he took it to the dealership and they said engine oil was dirty from lack of changes gummed up needed a new engine and I know that he took good car of it any ideas? on the notes from dealership it have clutch assembly for intake cam bank 2 can not be controlled leaving the valve wide open... here is a few videos

https://youtu.be/LHNwfZLFdOA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqITmQpzBik

euromaxima wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 30, 2017 5:16 am

2007 infiniti g35 sedan 6 speed, car is throwing p0345 code, I have new cam sensor, even swapped bank 1 to bank 2 cam sensors still get code, new crank sensor, did engine flush oil was clean, slip light and vcd light stay on and seems car is stuck in limp mode, I can clear check engine light but others stay on. car sometimes will rev past 3500 but usually wont. on a cold start up engine sounds like a diesel truck but then sounds fine in a few minutes. also installed a new vct solenoid. I bought car from a friend really cheap cause he took it to the dealership and they said engine oil was dirty from lack of changes gummed up needed a new engine and I know that he took good car of it any ideas? on the notes from dealership it have clutch assembly for intake cam bank 2 can not be controlled leaving the valve wide open... here is a few videos

Have you consulted the FSM prior to posting?

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... 5_Sedan/ec

See page EC-258

P0340, P0345 CMP SENSOR (PHASE)
Description
INFOID:0000000000956646
The camshaft position sensor (PHASE) senses the retraction of
camshaft (INT) to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft position sensor (PHASE) senses
the piston position.
When the crankshaft position sensor (POS) system becomes inoperative, the camshaft position sensor
(PHASE) provides various controls of engine parts instead, utilizing timing of cylinder identification
signals.
The sensor consists of a permanent magnet and Hall IC.
When engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause
the gap with the sensor to change.
The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to
change.
Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes.
ECM receives the signals as shown in the figure

P0345

Harness or connectors
[CMP sensor (PHASE) (bank 2) circuit is
open or shorted.]
[CKP sensor (POS) circuit is shorted.]
[EVT control position sensor (bank 2) cir-
cuit is shorted.]
(Battery current sensor circuit is shorted.)
(APP sensor 2 circuit is shorted.)
(EVAP control system pressure sensor
circuit is shorted.)
(Refrigerant pressure
sensor circuit is
shorted.)
• Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
(bank 2)
• Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
• Exhaust valve timing control position sensor (bank 2)
• Battery current sensor
• Accelerator pedal position sensor
• EVAP control system pressure sensor
• Refrigerant pressure sensor
•Camshaft (INT)
• Starter motor
• Starting system circuit
• Dead (Weak) battery

The cylinder No. signal is not sent to ECM for
the first few seconds during engine cranking.
• The cylinder No. signal is not sent to ECM
during engine running.
• The cylinder No. signal is not in the normal
pattern during engine running

Something as simple as

2.
CHECK GROUND CONNECTION

Telcoman

How you read the codes? DId you use a code reader that can read the ABS and TCM on your car ? There is a reason your car is stuck on limp mode and that have to be addressed first. Many times if the ECU, ABS, BCM or TCM computers can no communicate or if there is a short or open circuit it will stay in limp mode until you fix that. What others lights stay on when you clear the eng light? If the engine have really sludged it might be saved, but there is a lot of mechanical cleaning and flushes to do. More info needed to recommend anything.

I did an engine flush and oil was clean, new cam sensors, app sensor, new plugs new crank sensor I have used a scanner and only code I get is p0345, slip light and vcd off light stay on and never go off even on a ecu reset. when car first starts idles like it is about to die for a bit. I can throttle it and eventually it will idle little high but engine sounds good. it wont rev past 3500 and check engine light stays off but comes on after a few restarts, but always have the p0345 pending when I scan it without a check engine light on. I have cleans grounds and battery is new. brake fluid is full brakes are halfway wear tires are right size and have good tread

How good are you working with a multimeter? What I could say by what you already changed is that either they sold you a bad sensor or that you have a grounding or open wire problem. If you are interested pm me and we can go thru all the points that you have to check to determine where in the system is the fault coming. I will put my .2 cents in that you have a wiring problem ,or maybe an ipdm relay problem. I can not say without going all thur the schematic but I can check and suggest you what to do. Did you or the previous owner( as far as you know) did any mods to the car like putting new lights or accesories? Let me know.

Euro-- you have private message receiving in your account disabled, so I can receive your pm but not answer them. Please enable your private message receiving so I can answer you. Have a good day.

I dont have FB. I can reply here on the private messages, but you have to go to your account settings and enable receiving private messages, because it seems you have it disabled and I can not PM you the answers. Anyway, I will post a reply here for now while you enable your pm inbox.


Well, that might be a little of an inconvenience, but it is still doable if you are willing to learn and have the time. Understand that I can only guide you, but you are responsible for what you ultimately do. There is nothing difficult about doing this measurements, they only take time to locate the components and follow the proper procedure if you have never done them before. I was looking thru the 2007 manual, and infiniti did change them a lot since the 2003 which is my model. They seem to have oversimplified them. If you look at the 2003 they are very detailed, so much that I could build a harness if necessary from the schematics, but in the 2007 they dont seem to want people doing much themselves. Still, we can measure enough to know if your car have a short or open. It worries me that you said you went to the dealer and they told you it was sludged out. When an engine get sludged, you will have this chunks of carbonized oil in places that are not accessible. I have not seen it on my engine or experience it myself, but read in some other thread that a guy had his camshaft sensors full of oil and were not reading correctly. A camshaft sensor is a magnetic device. They emit a magnetic field that is cut by the indentations on the cam or crankshaft and this gives a series of impulses that the ecu read. If you have chunks of carbonized oil in that area of your cam, they might not read completely well. So even if you changed the oil, if you did not flushed the engine to a level that is clean enough, it will give you a lot of related problems with this and other types of valves that depend on oil being clean. The first thing that I would do, is to remove the camshaft sensors and try to look with a mirror or scope thru the hole if that area of the cam is completely clean or if it is sludged. The dealer would have been happy to make money out of changing all these sensors, but they wont desludge an engine for you. That is maybe why they told you that you needed another engine. If the areas of magnetic contact are not clean, you might want to try to desludge your engine with something like sea foam first. It is added to the oil and then you let it run for maybe 20 minutes at idle and then you change the oil. I know some other more agressive methods, but I dont know the state of the sludge in your engine and those might end up losing big chunks that will clog other parts. It would have been good if you would have removed the engine oil pan and could see with a flashlight how sludged it is, also to clean the oil pickup line while you are at it. That line have a mesh that clogs up of burn oil and pieces and then you wont have enough oil going up the system. ALso I have not confirmed it, but your sensors might also be one position only, meaning #1 and # 2 are not interchangeable. If you bought cheap ones and were not aware of this, your sensor coil might be pointing in the wrong direction and not reading correctly. I would have to confirm this for you. Or you can go to any parts catalog and see if they have different part numbers, which would indicate they are different. After you make sure you have the right sensor installed in the correct position, that they are not sludged and that they are reading correctly, then we can start by showing you how to measure dc and ac voltage and continuity of a circuit and then we can go to the manual and measure what needs to be measured. Still bugs me why the dealer told you this, so lets start by the obvious and make sure for real that your engine dont have chunks of carbon inside. I just checked and if you bought sensors for the VQ35DE engine, those are wrong and different. The manual shows you might have the VQ35HE engine, and the coils are different. Check all I described in this post and check what engine model you have and if you bought the correct sensors for it.