SR20 - Haltech Tuning Help!!

[ItzGenX]

Well, it has been a couple of days since I have been trying to figure this out. I can get my motor started, but it will only idle for about 3 seconds and die. I am unsure if its too lean for it or too rich for it. I have to use the zero throttle map to keep her idling for even the slightest. If I start it with my foot at 50%, it will start easier, hit 3k rpm, then die slowly. So here is the low down on it:

1995 240SX with bored SR22DET and E6XEagle RodsCP 90MM PistonsJWT 89MM SleevesARP Main and Head StudsCometic HD HeadgasketStainless ValvesGreddy Valve SpringsJWT Titanium RetainersHKS 264 Step 2Greddy Intake ManifoldMSD 72lb InjectorsJGY Top Feed Fuel RailNismo FPRAEM C2DI on Stock Coilpacks (all work)Full Race ManifodTial 44mm WastegateFull Race T67/T3 (.63AR)Greddy VSPL FMIC

I have all the settings in the HalwinX program at:Main SetupNo. Cyl. 4Load Sensing: MAPLoad Type: 3BarMAPRPM Limit: 7800RPMECU Mode: AdvancedRPM Limit: IgnitionDual MAP: DisabledGas Compensation: Always On

Fuel SetupDecel Cut: DisabledInjection: Sequential

Ignition SetupTrigger Angle: 44 (tried 43, 44, 45, and 46-44 is best I guess)Tooth Offset: 18Spark Mode: Distributor (must put on this to run waste spark, including internal toggle)Spark Output: Constant ChargeSpark Edge: FallingConstant Period: 4.0msInternal Toggle: On

Trigger SetupTrigger Angle: 44Trigger Type: NissanHome Window: 16Tooth Offset: 18Trigger Input Pullup: OnTrigger Input: Hall EffectTrigger Edge: RisingHome Input: Hall EffectHome Edge: Rising

Currently I am not using any maps except the Fuel Map 1, Ignition Map 1, and Zero Throttle Map. Ignition timing is setup from Scott's(Enthalpy) "Timing Guide". Fuel map is basically guess and retry. Same goes for the Zero Throttle map with no luck. I think it is running rich and tried leaning it out, only to find it Idle creeping up higher as it hits the leaner spots. After it hits the leaner spots, it will then continue to rise (creep) in RPM off the zero throttle map then die. I've tried adjusting the throttle stop screw up and down (in one turn increments up and down and playing with the haltech for 15 mins at a time). I do not have my IACV wired up, and the hole for it is capped off for the time being (to prevent variables). After an hour of playing (finally gets to operating temp of 80C) I check the plugs to find them blackened and smelling like fuel somewhat. So every hour of playing, I pull and check the plugs, clean them, then put them back in and try dif settings again to have no luck. The plugs are gapped at .030 by the way. I have a feeling the 72lb injectors may be too big to let it idle. Then on the other hand, I can't even get it to stay on even with the throttle.

So if anyone has any experience with tuning a haltech or something that can relate to the subject, I would really appreciate it. All I need is for the car to idle and stay idling, so I can tune it for drivability. I do not want to put my LM-1 onto the car yet until it will idle regularly to prevent sensor fouling.

[Dugi]

I have the microtech ems on my car, they are about the same. Try to put back the IACV valve to your intake. it doesn't have to be wired up, just the vacuum hose. I also capped off the vacuum hose and the car wouldn't start, then I put it back to the intake and started. So I hope this will help you

[ItzGenX]

I've used the throttle plate just fine to start the car. I also had it open before also as a test. I think I have found the problem, which seems to be the fuel pump relaying system. When I turn the key, you will hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds (walbro 255). It is wired into the haltech relay directly (hard wired) with 8 gauge wire. The problem here is that when I start the car (after 2 second prime), it will start just fine and try to idle. While this is happening, I had my cousin place his ear on the gas tank cover (where fuel pump is located) to listen for the pump. After the car cranks, the pump does not come back on for some reason. Any ideas as to why the pump doesn't continue to run after startup? I've also pulled the CAS and spun it by hand with the key on. When I spin it, you can hear the injectors and coils fire along with the fuel pump priming in between (but never stays on). I can get a cloth and place it along the fender well with the cas plugged in and drag the gear across the cloth to make the ecu think that it is cranked and running. The fuel pump will only prime once or twice per 3-5 revolutions, but never stays on between primes. The only times I hear the pump come on (2 seconds at a time) is when I turn the key to the on position before starting and when I crank the engine but let go of the key too early, it will prime near the end (stallout). There isn't one instance when the fuel stays on during running. I am thinking about jumping the relay to keep the pump on and see if she stays running. If it does, then I have no clue on how to fix the problem then to jump the pump relay everytime I plan on going somewhere.