Hi NICO Fam,


I am in need of assistance ASAP, my engine threw a rod, I will go into why in another post.
I picked up a used engine from a 07 Base M35 with 19,000 miles. I have been following the FSM to install the Engine Assembly. I have reinstalled the transmission and engine assy, however, I cannot hand crank the engine to install the flywheel bolts.

Any advise on things to check before dropping the assy again?


-Jeremy

I have no idea, but I'm checking with someone who should... hopefully he'll post soon.

Heath

Why can you not turn it over?

I typically use a 1/2" 2' long breaker bar and a 19mm socket to turn it over to align the torque converter and flex plate and do not have an issue. If you engine will not turn with proper mechanical advantage you might have an issue that will require pulling it again.

Thank you for the replies.


I think the torque converter shifted forward.

the night before I left it on the table lift and transmission jack. The next morning I noticed that the transmission jack had held, however the table lift had dropped almost to its lowest point. the transmission and engine were already mated.

one question though, the torque converter should be able to spin indapendant of the flexplate prior to installation of the mounting bolts correct?

Aww I know exactly what that looks like...been there done that... There are several stages of potential engagement for the torque converter. What you need is slight resistance from the pump when turned by hand. Also if you grab the TC at 12 and 6 and check axial runout there should be none, all of the other steps have some.
Luckily all you really have to do it pull the trans not drop the engine.

It was a pain however,at this point the tc is set in the proper place so it seems. I can now hand crank the engine to align the bolt holes it now appears that the tc is set back a little too far. the holes are aligned and I can use a longer bolt with the same thread pattern and it will work, so will hurt to use a longer bolt to bring the tc forward about 3 mm?

Jeremy

The engine is in, the car started on the 1st try.

I have run into an issue though, the car will run until it is placed in gear when warm, it stalls out.
I was able to drive it out of the garage and turn around in the street, I pulled it back in and cont to warm it up to fill the cooling system. I went out to help it warm up as the FSM states (rev at 3,000 for 10 mins or so), the lower hose was warm and it did not take any fluid out of the res, so I checked the oil level, it looked ok. I got it and rev'd her up a bit the dash lights (slip, vcd, and so on) started to come on. it then stalled out, it was very low on gas so I put in a few gallons from the lawn mowers reserve. It will run, I can select a gear and it will go until warmed up.

Are there any sort of resets or adjustments I need to make? Most everything seems to adjust itself.


Not sure if it is related, there is a Check Enging Light, so I went and got a code reader, it shows P0335
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
OBD-II Trouble Code Technical DescriptionCrankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

What does that mean?The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) measures crankshaft location and relays this information to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). Depending on the vehicle, the PCM uses this crankshaft position information to time the spark properly or on some systems it is only for misfire detection and does not control spark timing. The CKP sensor is stationary and works in harmony with a reluctor ring (or toothed ring) that is attached to the crankshaft. As this reluctor ring passes in front of the CKP sensor, the magnetic field created by the CKP sensor is interrupted and this creates a square wave voltage signal that the PCM interprets as crankshaft position. If the PCM detects that there are no crankshaft pulses or if it sees a problem with the pulses on the output circuit, P0335 will set.


SymptomsNOTE: If the crank sensor is used only for misfire detection and NOT spark timing (this varies with the vehicle), the vehicle should start and run with MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination. Also, some vehicles require several key cycles to illuminate the MIL. If this is the case, there may be no MIL illumination until the problem often enough over time. If the crank sensor is used for BOTH misfire detection and spark timing, the vehicle may or may not start. Symptoms may include:

Vehicle may not start (see above)
Vehicle may run rough or misfire
MIL illumination
CausesA P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:

Damaged CKP sensor connector
Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
Sensor output open
Sensor output shorted to ground
Sensor output shorted to voltage
Failed crank sensor
Broken timing belt
Failed PCM
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I would think this would effect the engine the entire time not just when warm.

Any help would be great!

-jeremy

So AutoZone had a CKP for 45.99 with a two year warranty. I picked it up. The engine I picked up from Nissan Unlimited in Houston Tx had only one issue, the CKP was broken off on the connector. It looked like it may have happened during loading or transport to my home in Dallas. I figured I would just use the one from my M35 Sport and call it done. It seems as though that mine was damaged in some way as well. I tried to reproduce the issue with the same steps that worked at least 3 times.


So far it has not stalled out when bringing it up to full operating temp, I will update after I testdrive it...

Thank GOD for OBD2, error code p0335 was dead on, I replaced the CKP sensorand it is no longer stalling, this is great!

I now have an issue with a whining\screeching noise.
It is really loud it seem to be comming from around the Steering Pump. I thought it could be the older belts so I grabbed some from AutoZone, The AC belt went on fine, the Alt, PS, WP belt was not long enough, seemed like the wrong part, as I lowered the tentioner pully to it max furthest point. I went with the old one for the rest of my testing. By the way the power steering is really weak (hard to use), is there anything I need to do to the system?

This noise is very LOUD, I can upload a sound clip or video if it will help.

Any help is welcome.

A loose of damaged crank position is surprisingly common. I am guessing yours was probably loose and the vibration from the revving jarred it loose breaking the magnetic contact signal and stalling the car. Seems like a simple fix.

The noise from the power steering belt might be a loose belt or the hydraulic system might need to be bled. Bleeding the air out of the lines is easy, turn it from side to side until you stop seeing bubbles in the reservoir and the noise dissipates and steering effort is reduced.

Sounds like you have had decent luck so far.

Keep an eye on the temp gauge. I would not be surprised to see the gauge higher than it was before as the VQ tends to get airbound when the entire circuit is drained. If you hear a gurgling noise on acceleration bleed the air.

Thanks Steve,


I was hoping it was the pump or something related to the belt system.
Today I decided to replace\swap the pulleys...... No help......

I then took off all belts and started it up (for a breif moment).
The sound remains.....

Here are the symptoms:
Car drives fine.
Loud screeching noise.
Sound is in sync with the engine rotation.
When coming to a stop the sound increases.
Sound seems to increse in loudness the lower the RPM.
Once above 1,100 RPM the sound can not be heard or is vary faint.
If you place it neutral the sound is faint, under load it is louder until you are back above 1,100 RPM.
It will change in pitch and sound level by adjusting the belts and can still be heard without the belts attached.



The only part of the entire job I do not feel 100% on is the Torque Converter installation.
being as this seems related to engine rotation I am wondering if it could be related the book is very lean on this portion of the install. I was wondering if there be something I missed related to the TC.

I was not sure if I could check the out the TC before I take it into the dealer.

Aww that sucks.

Harmonic oscillations can travel to places they really have no business. I have seen colleagues and I myself have replaced parts we felt completely certain of only to find we were wrong. Get a long screwdriver or extension and use it like a stethoscope to try to pinpoint the noise a little better.

A torque converter that not fully installed will cause a similar noise if the transmission pump driven gear is not fully installed. The only way to check that is to pull the trans though...

I would rule everything else out...unless you have a puddle of trans fluid coming from the bell housing.

GreenQ45a wrote:the holes are aligned and I can use a longer bolt with the same thread pattern and it will work, so will hurt to use a longer bolt to bring the tc forward about 3 mm?

No real experience to go on - but I can't help but think the squeal is somehow related to this. A mechanic's stethoscope is a great tool for something like this... http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics- ... 41966.html

Heath

Thanks for the link, I didn't like HF's (HarborFreights) hand tools like screwdrivers and wrenches, they just dont seem to hold up at all, most of their 'Higher End' handtools seem to break, strip, or just plain suck.

My dad always used Matco, Snap-On and Craftsmen tools, and has given me quite a few.
With that being said... even if the handtools arn't the best their lifts, jacks, and 'SOME' powertools are made quite well and at the price you can get 2 or 3 at the price of others.

I was gonna drive to HF for the stethascope, but I could not make it here in time, autozone had one for 10.00 .

Here are some tools that I bought for this job:
http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-cap ... 94822.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-cap ... 39178.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-i ... 45252.html

I recommend EVERYONE on NICO to purchases one (No affilation to HF, I work for BlackBerry )
but this thing rules, it was able to remove EVERY bolt it has been asked to, from rusted on exhaust bolts to the Chassie and SubFrame bolts without the headaches of airtools, plus... all metal internals, not to mention you can service the brushes .
It received great reviews as well.

I will let you know what I find....... The hunt is on

Q451990 wrote:

GreenQ45a wrote:the holes are aligned and I can use a longer bolt with the same thread pattern and it will work, so will hurt to use a longer bolt to bring the tc forward about 3 mm?

No real experience to go on - but I can't help but think the squeal is somehow related to this. A mechanic's stethoscope is a great tool for something like this... http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics- ... 41966.html

Heath

Yeah, kinda what I was-a thinking it was about .5 mm when it started to catch the threading.
but still I was under the impression that would be flush if I hit the FSM's recommend "25mm or.98in or more" I measured it at 25-26mm before I mated them I guessed it at 3mm but was way off. I still question this part and will prolly end up pulling it down.. k shows are over wife is going to bed off to play doctor with my m(35)istess.
I am just wondering if the pump

Sound seems to be coming from the area of the bell-housing.
When I used the stethoscope it sounded like a rubbing...
Perhaps the bolt heads are rubbing?


I figure it should be one of the following:

1) Bolt Heads are rubbing.
2) Flex-Plate\Fly-Wheel is off balance, broken or warped.
3) TC (Torque Converter) itself is damaged or off balance.
4) The last part of the TC Install where it goes into the transmission oil pump is damaged or misaligned.

I am about to remove the transmission once again for an inspection.

To address #1:
I will inspect the heads and bottoms of the bolts and anywhere they could have touched.

To address #2:
I think I may just swap out the Flex-Plate for the one on my old engine, it may be possible that this one was damaged while the engine was being removed by the place that sold it to me or during transit, ether way I don't want to go back in after this attempt. One questions on this though it is as straight forward as it seems or is there some kind trick? Looks like just a few quick bolts.

To address #3:
Drain and refill it, inspect the balancing weights and look for any thing strange.

To address #4:
Inspect the splines and EVERY part that interconnects with the TC for any sign of damage.

Please post anything you can think of that I missed.
I will be checking the post quite often today as I am off and can work on it now.

Thanks again...

- Jeremy

PS... I have not had this much fun since restoring my Q45a's Active system....

I hope it's something obvious when you pull the transmission...

Good luck!

Heath

I have removed the Transmission and the torque converter was stuck to the FW\FP (FlexPlate\FlyWheel) I had to pry it off is that normal? Anyway it is off now and I am looking over the parts, it all looks good overall. I do see some thing a bit strange near where I think the pump is. Should I swap out the FP?


Thanks for a quick reply in advance....

I see some rubbing marks on the back of the FP, I will post a pic in a few: in the right light it looks like its bent.
I think this must have happened during transportation or the 1st failed mounting attempt. Prolly the 2nd

I think my original is still in perfect condition , if so I will be using that one. I will be needing to breakout the hoist though, I have in on a stand and it blocks the bolts. I hope that is it.......

Also, I did not apply new grease last time, I did clean off the older stuff,I need to know how much to apply , it does not say it just shows a little icon to advise to do so

The FSM does not advised (that I see) if you must fill the torque converter either, I see mixed advice on this some say you must, others say it will fill up upon the 1st start up.

I can think of one reason the flexplate and torque converter would stick...the tc was not in all the way...

I think you are getting warmer but there are several key steps before you reinstall the transmission. The flex plate is indexed there is a small dimple that is the zero mark for the crank position sensor. If the mark is out of line the bolt holes do not line up, you might strip one of the threads on the back of the crank ( I can tell you from experience that is a nightmare in the best conditions, it took hours to fix that). Also make sure you torque those bolts in the right pattern, as they will be rotating at engine speed for years.

When you are spinning the torque converter onto the input shaft you will feel a hard metal on metal thud as the key lines up into the pump. A final measurement should insure you are engaged.

Also make sure that you fill that with Matic S ONLY. I would fill to TC most of the way it takes a surprising amount of fluid.

Good Luck,

Steve

SteveTheTech wrote:

Aww I know exactly what that looks like...been there done that... There are several stages of potential engagement for the torque converter. What you need is slight resistance from the pump when turned by hand. Also if you grab the TC at 12 and 6 and check axial runout there should be none, all of the other steps have some.
Luckily all you really have to do it pull the trans not drop the engine.

I am showing 1.125 in or 28.575mm

What do you think?
Should I pull the Torque Converter forward?
The FSM says '25mm or more' is that were it should be?

- Jeremy

On the engine's side:
There are four small drill holes on the 'Drive-Plate' or 'Flex-Plate' or' Flywheel'(or whatever you want to call it), they are around outer ring. If you line them up starting at the CKP Sensor (going > right) it places the 4th hole above the TC Bolt access panel. It looks off centered compared to the bell-housing.

On the Transmission side:
Insert the TC (I marked the alignment with a sharpie around the TC), Rotate while lifting and turning clockwise, per Steve you will hear a thud as the 1st set engage, the 1st set seems to engage wherever it feels like, the 2nd however, needs to be aligned with the pump (Up and Down 12 & 6). It seems like there could be a third, or it could be the 2nd fulling seating in. Once you are sure it is completely in. You keep rotating the TC until you set the mounting holes at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock, when there is tension from pump, you can turn it SLOWLY till the next hole is aligned to 6 o'clock..

By the way, the measurements were fine at 28.545mm

She mated up like 'Budda', Building her back up now.....

We will see........

Sounds like second time might be the charm.

The signal side of the CKP sensor in on the engine side of the flex plate, directly ahead of the starter gear ring there are dashes on a small plate. That is your 1* signal.

As far as reinstalling the TC as long as you have a reading over 25mm and you actually feel the difference in resistance when you turn it.

SteveTheTech wrote:Sounds like second time might be the charm.

The signal side of the CKP sensor in on the engine side of the flex plate, directly ahead of the starter gear ring there are dashes on a small plate. That is your 1* signal.

As far as reinstalling the TC as long as you have a reading over 25mm and you actually feel the difference in resistance when you turn it.

Sure is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Congratulations

Thank you for all the help Steve, you too Heath very cool of you both.

I have been driving it for the last few days and let me tell you it is soooooo nice not to be driving my wifes couch, I mean Pacifica.

The M is running better than ever ... I do still have two things to address as a result of the install.

1. Steering-wheel is off centered, my bad per step 4 of the removal process outlined in the FSM:
"4. Disconnect steering lower joint at power steering gear assembly side, and release steering lower shaft.
Refer to PS-13, "STEERING COLUMN"."

I loosened the bolt for the lower joint, but I did not go back and remove it (where I stopped for that night) .
So when I when lowered the sub-frame it pulled the shaft out of the column side, it remained with the rack.
I guessed where the alignment should be and was off by about 12 splines I am guessing, this offsets the wheel it looks like it pointed at 10:00.

I was wondering if I can just offset the lower part that connects the knuckle to the lower racks splines. It is a universal joint after all, but then again this is an Infiniti and I do not want to mess with handling. She is still handling amazing.

My understanding is the adjustments are made with the lower bold so it seems safe enough, however if the universal joints position matters then I need to drop the rack and pull the shaft back out, I needed to hammer it back in so I would like to avoid needing to pull it back out. But if it must be done it must.

2. The VDC off, and Slip lights come on in about 2 - 3 mins of driving, a bit later the RAS will illuminate.
I have seen a few post about this they seem to refer to fluid issues which seems to fit. My PWSteering fluid is fine as is the brake fluid. This leads me to the transmission fluid, I can't seem to get a good reading on it. The dipstick is always getting covered in fluid when inserting and removing (even worse than the oil dipstick for the engine.) Would the transmission being low on fluid cause these symptoms? My transmission is shifting great, no lag, not jarring into gear.

Thank you and everyone at NICO for making it possible for me to drive infiniti's for the last 10 years

Glad we could help.

The steering angle sensor is reading >2* off center.

So what your car thinks is wheels are going dangerously sideways. While the wheel speed sensors are even the ABS will begin to activate after 5 seconds the VDC goes into failsafe. Once the failsafe in the VDC is on everyone on the network will soon follow. It is supposed to keep the car safe as it is missing one of the most important inputs.



What you really need to do is soak the collar in WD-40 and realign it. get the wheels straight shut the car off and open the door (to engage the steering lock motor) that will limit your motion range. Make the minor adjustment needed on the lower side (you have to center the blue tab) of the steering collar.