Im a KA-T guy myself and don't know jack about SR's except for they have pistons and stuff.
He got his SR swapped by a shop. I'll make a real long story short by saying we drove it, ran great but had some problems. We returned it to them, now its 100% worse.
Its a 100% stock redtop.
Idles smooth and runs pretty smooth out of boost.Definitly running 9psi of boostWhen its boosting, it's still pretty smooth, but very slowignition timing is good
Because it idles smooth, I have to assume that the coil packs are good. Is that a fair assumption?
When starting the car, he has to give it gas else it won't start and even then sometimes it takes a few tries.
Taking it back to the shop is pretty much pointless. They have their head up their *** and are just plain liars.
Parts:1. I cant get a reading from the O2 sensor and im thinking its bad, so we are replacing it. Im 50% sure its wired in right but dont have wiring diagrams to go on.
2. Its running Iridium plugs. Any known problems with this?
Other stuff to try:1. Today, im hooking it up on my wideband to see what the A/F is like at WOT
2. Gonna hook up a voltmeter to the MAFS. Anybody know a voltage to look for at idle? Im assuming around .2v or something?
Thanks for ANY help or ideas!
Guys, I could really use some help with a friends SR
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AznRide
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Re: Guys, I could really use some help with a friends SR
When starting the car, he has to give it gas else it won't start and even then sometimes it takes a few tries.
Check the battery, may not have enough sparks to even start the car, check your wirings by the ecu or where he had his wirings modded. Make sure there is no exposed or discconected wire. Happened to me once when I was driving, my car would shut on and off...weird, and when I stopped, it cranked, but won't start. When I looked at the ecu, there was a wire that was loose from teh connection. Hope that would help
Gonna hook up a voltmeter to the MAFS. Anybody know a voltage to look for at idle? Im assuming around .2v or something?
Because it idles smooth, I have to assume that the coil packs are good. Is that a fair assumption? - This is your solution. If the MAFS is bad, your car won't run well. Meaning of that is that it won't let you rev pass 3500 RPM, but nevertheless, nothing to do with the car has to get fed by gas before starting.
I hope that help, if not, some other members will definitely help you with this
Check the battery, may not have enough sparks to even start the car, check your wirings by the ecu or where he had his wirings modded. Make sure there is no exposed or discconected wire. Happened to me once when I was driving, my car would shut on and off...weird, and when I stopped, it cranked, but won't start. When I looked at the ecu, there was a wire that was loose from teh connection. Hope that would help
Gonna hook up a voltmeter to the MAFS. Anybody know a voltage to look for at idle? Im assuming around .2v or something?
Because it idles smooth, I have to assume that the coil packs are good. Is that a fair assumption? - This is your solution. If the MAFS is bad, your car won't run well. Meaning of that is that it won't let you rev pass 3500 RPM, but nevertheless, nothing to do with the car has to get fed by gas before starting.
I hope that help, if not, some other members will definitely help you with this
MAF or wiring problems are very common. Try starting the engine with the MAFS unplugged, it should start and idle fine but will be rich enough that you can see and smell the difference in the exhaust.
If it idles bad with the MAF unplugged, then you may have a MAF wiring problem, trace it back to the original splice and make sure the shield wire is not touching any other wires.
Is it hard to start once fully warmed up? If no then check the Idle Air Control Valve (under intake manifold) for 12v power, ground etc.
Also leaking injector o-rings can let fuel drip into the cylinder, that can make it hard to start. Pull a plug and smell for gas before you try to start it first thing.
Low power is usually timing related, make sure you get it perfect, use a spark plug wire in between the coil pack and plug for the inductive lead on the light, this guarantees you are setting it right.
If the CAS is off by a tooth or 2 you can set timing visually but it will still be off. Verify the CAS is aligned properly. Actually, this could easily cause the hard to start and low power problems you are having.
Less than 3" exhaust / cat can also make you lose power, so can an exhaust/turbo leak.
MAF will go from 0v to 5v I think.
Good luck,______________Jeff HHeavy Throttle
If it idles bad with the MAF unplugged, then you may have a MAF wiring problem, trace it back to the original splice and make sure the shield wire is not touching any other wires.
Is it hard to start once fully warmed up? If no then check the Idle Air Control Valve (under intake manifold) for 12v power, ground etc.
Also leaking injector o-rings can let fuel drip into the cylinder, that can make it hard to start. Pull a plug and smell for gas before you try to start it first thing.
Low power is usually timing related, make sure you get it perfect, use a spark plug wire in between the coil pack and plug for the inductive lead on the light, this guarantees you are setting it right.
If the CAS is off by a tooth or 2 you can set timing visually but it will still be off. Verify the CAS is aligned properly. Actually, this could easily cause the hard to start and low power problems you are having.
Less than 3" exhaust / cat can also make you lose power, so can an exhaust/turbo leak.
MAF will go from 0v to 5v I think.
Good luck,______________Jeff HHeavy Throttle
NY - thanks for all the info. We worked a bit on the car today. here's what happened.
1. MAF is working. I dont know if its the right MAF for the car or not, but idle was around 1.5v or somthing close to that.
2. TPS voltage range is 4.95 to 5.02 which HAS to be screwed up, but I would think that this would cause a rich condition and not a lean condition.
3. I hooked up my wideband and his idle is ~15.8:1 (lean) cruise is between 15.6:1 and 16.0:1 WOT starts out lean 14:1 but levels out to a nice 12.0:1
He's got a 3" DP, exhaust cutout (in place of the cat) then it goes to the stock exhaust. Theres definitly another 5-10hp when you bypass the exhaust but its loud as hell
We got the timing checked at a nissan dealership that was nice enought to do it for free.
I dont know jack about CAS's. I'll have to do a bit of research before I go taking his off or whatever you do with it. One thing that I did find strange is that supposedly the timing is perfect, but the CAS is rotated all the way to the extreme right or left (i forget which)
1. MAF is working. I dont know if its the right MAF for the car or not, but idle was around 1.5v or somthing close to that.
2. TPS voltage range is 4.95 to 5.02 which HAS to be screwed up, but I would think that this would cause a rich condition and not a lean condition.
3. I hooked up my wideband and his idle is ~15.8:1 (lean) cruise is between 15.6:1 and 16.0:1 WOT starts out lean 14:1 but levels out to a nice 12.0:1
He's got a 3" DP, exhaust cutout (in place of the cat) then it goes to the stock exhaust. Theres definitly another 5-10hp when you bypass the exhaust but its loud as hell
We got the timing checked at a nissan dealership that was nice enought to do it for free.
I dont know jack about CAS's. I'll have to do a bit of research before I go taking his off or whatever you do with it. One thing that I did find strange is that supposedly the timing is perfect, but the CAS is rotated all the way to the extreme right or left (i forget which)
"One thing that I did find strange is that supposedly the timing is perfect, but the CAS is rotated all the way to the extreme right or left (i forget which)"
That probably means the dealer did the best they could, which may not be good enough. I bet your CAS is off by a tooth, causing loss of power and hard start.
Here are good instructions for setting the CAS:
http://www.store.yahoo.com/pha....html
Geeze, sending you to a competitors site, I must be nuts! His directions are easier to follow than ours.....
_______________Jeff HHeavy Throttle
That probably means the dealer did the best they could, which may not be good enough. I bet your CAS is off by a tooth, causing loss of power and hard start.
Here are good instructions for setting the CAS:
http://www.store.yahoo.com/pha....html
Geeze, sending you to a competitors site, I must be nuts! His directions are easier to follow than ours.....
_______________Jeff HHeavy Throttle
holy crap man, big help. We'll try this today. BTW - John (my buddy) has been calling you guys constantly asking for help. Im sure it got a bit annoying, but you guys were always nice and helpful (and patient) with him. I'll be sure to get you guys some business next time somebody mentions ordering something for their 240sx.
^^ that my friends is how good business works. Go the extra mile and it'll pay for itself 10x.
^^ that my friends is how good business works. Go the extra mile and it'll pay for itself 10x.
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s13sr20chris
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we got the timing thing done. I think it was off. The car has been on jackstands all day getting coilovers done, so we cant say if that helped anything or not. Def. need to get that TPS working right. Supposedly the shop is going to send us a MAF, TPS and ECU to experiment with. I hope they at least wired the TPS right. Dont feel much like re-wiring that biotch