amolao wrote:I think is Greg at maintaining the original package for exposure points. I'm with you Bro...
When I get my roadster, I'm swapping to a KA (E or DE), the timing kit on the roadster is way to expensive to even consider this a viable daily driver. And that's if you can find a new kit. But you are right on the NA SR20, is definetely an alternative and dirt cheap.
Timing kits arn't that hard to find, they last a long time and it will cost far more to swap an engine correctly and cleanly than it is to build a really hot U20 that can be driven everyday and raced on as well. It will make more power at the wheels as well. Trust me, I have done it. I have 40K on my rebuild that reused the gears, guides and tensioners. I'm guessing those have close to 60 or 70K on them now. Seriously, if you want a KA, go buy yourself a 240sx and sell the roadster to someone who will value it for what it is, and not destroy it by swapping a modern engine into it. Besides it sucks to take a $10k (if its nice) spend another 10K and end up with a $3000 car. A roadster is a rare car, a 2 liter is a very rare car. If you own a rare car, the prices for parts are therefore going to be a bit more, however you comeout ahead in the long run with keeping it correct.Besides you end up having to rebuild any engine you are thinking of swapping in anyway. A $2000 SR20De will set you back another 2K+ on a rebuild, so now you are into it for $4k (anyone who runs an engine that hasn't been fully torn down before use is a moron. It could be ready to grenade at any second and you will never know until it does. Sure you might get lucky and it could be fine. I'm not one to gamble.) and the engine still isn't in the car. Another $6k in body work, and custom fab work (wiring ect) and let me tell you you would have one heck of a U20 for that. I think I spent a total of $4k on my rebuilt and that includes a full race head with custom valves, guides seats and a full port and polish job. It starts the first try every time, and gets 26 mpg on the freeway turning 4500 rpm (short rear end). It will do it all day long. Thats running a full race profile cam, and a pair of big carbs. Yes I run the engine to redline all the time. Do I hold it there for a long time, no thats how you blow up an engine, I shift at redline. The head was built to handle 8k, but the cast pistons can't. There fore the 7k redline is it.
Before you are dead set on doing a swap, think long term. If you are looking for more than perhaps 200 hp, you should think about the fact that you cant put a tire larger than perhaps a 205 on the back end. It won't fit. In most cases, a 195 is the biggest you can go, especially if the car is on comp springs. I would like to run a 205 to tame the power induced oversteer that I have, but they just won't fit.
Will