GTI-R ITB's for my SR build?

[TheLocust]

Hey guys, well heres the story. I love all motor hondas, my buddy has an 11 second all motor hatch(if anyone is interested in it I can give you links and more info because it is ungodly) I used to have an all motor high compression KA 240(sohc block mated to a dohc head/early 89 pistons/Colt cams/P&P head/port matched custom made 4-1 header/SR 370's and crappaly tuned on an SAFC by me) but taht was short lasted, I Was 16 at the time and it was my first car so I was kind of upset. yea yea, so 2 years later I bought another shell and put a red top SR20 in it. Right now the motor is basically stock, has hard intercooler piping, boost controller, full 3" exhaust and thats it. I just wanted a quick daily driver but I want a fast car again. and I've been wanting to start another honda project but I came accross an idea for the car I currently have. Right now I ahve the opportunity to buy an SR short block really cheap(50 bucks) so im gonna go all out if I do anything. A quick set up that came accross my head was this, SC61+supporting mods, 50wet shot, and GTi-R ITB's is the basic major parts of it. I don't plan to build the bottom end very much if any at all, after tons of research on this subject I found that the SR stock bottom end can handle quite a bit. My basic question is how efficient would the ITB's be on a forced induction car like this? And has anyone done this before? Im assuming they bolt up to the redtop RWD SR, they just need tuned really precisely correct? I only have tuning experience with SAFC, UberData and Hondata and have never touched a Power FC or Emanage my question is would I be able to tune all that and the throttle bodies correctly using an E-manage? Im pretty sure the FC could handle it but just wanna keep my options open. Thanks, I really want to think everything out before I start ordering stuff because its either this or the obd1 4th gen hatch I want to build which would be just nasty, Gutted Cut and Seam welded, stripped down wiring harness, spindle mount rear(no rear brakes) high compression built sleeved B20 block with a 1st generation B16A head hytech header skunk2 stage 3 cams ITB's good for high 10 second passes on slicks in a little over a 1000lb car tuned to run on 93. Now I know the 240 would be slower and might cost more money but it would be streetable and probally more reliable. Any thoughts? Im really kind of stuck on what to do here.. Sorry for the novel.

[Teamsprock]

The GTi-R manifold with the individual throttle bodies will not bolt up, it in fact also faces the wrong direction. It is a very efficent design and works great on that motor! Tuning is the same as any other FWD SR20 it just has better flow capabilities compared to a single TB!

[pgt892]

You really should have searched as this have been asked before. Here is a quote from one such thread:"The outlet will face towards the firewall. You would have to cut and reweld the runners which would turn the intake around (it has been done before)." - Sr20 B12

[slow s13]

yes the itb's will bolt on but as stated already the intake plenum will face the wrong direction. Luckily the manifold has a split in the plenum which can be taken off cut and rewelded to fit the rwd application, also the gtir is turbocharged.

[VitaminT]

I found a guy that did the plenum flip on some and sold them modded.

He said they hit the hood (I guess due to the redtop being high port head).

They looked good and he got it all working for him and some friends but they had to run no hood or custom hood or something.

[All Motor]

Yeah I planned to not run a hood for cooling purposes as well(I live by Mid-ohio so it will be mainly a road race car) cage is going in soon and the coilovers are on already, just need the power because only public race days are with the local Porsche Club and I don't feel like getting anihilated too bad. Who said it won't bolt up? Im pretty sure it will. It only makes sense. Also I did search, I figured that you could do it im just wondering how realistic it is and how many people would do it. And in the three threads on here about it no one actually did it, I was really hoping to find and talk to someone who has done it before. And yeah I knew you had to cut and re-face them by looking at the GTi-Rs bay. Does anyone have contact info for anyone that has done it before? All help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks (TheLocust on AllMotor's name)

[SR20Monster]

did you ever go with the gtir build? does anyone know of someone who does modify the ITB?

[5upra]

you should half *** it like you did on the SR in the black 240 you sold to me...if that is how you work then you should never even be allowed to be in a car. I have just pulled the motor and you have so many nuts/bolts stripped, missing, or mismatched. There was 2 bolts on the turbo extension. There was 6 bolts missing off of the TRANSMISSION BELLHOUSING. Engine only held down by 1 engine mount. transmission mount only held on by 2 bolts. Half all the head cover studs are stripped. Which by the way oil is leaking onto the spark plugs, still(never heard that story). The wire harness from a KA was used for the SR(huge mess). Fuel pump was a KA pump, which you said was a walbro. And I highly dbout that the ECU is a tuned one(as said). Still need to inspect the starter situation. I should make you pay for everything that is either stripped/missing or get a good lump of money back. You are very very very lucky that I am not a big fan of money otherwise you would be either in court or seeing a doctor, because that was not worth the money I paid.Oh and by the way if you ever reply to me since the dozens of emails I sent never got replied to...What is wrong with the rear/what did you do to it? I read one of your post about the car handling weird. It makes a horrible noise in reverse with brakes on. Not that I won't figure it out, but just wondered if you did anything.

[Morph]

you should half *** it like you did on the SR in the black 240 you sold to me...if that is how you work then you should never even be allowed to be in a car. I have just pulled the motor and you have so many nuts/bolts stripped, missing, or mismatched. There was 2 bolts on the turbo extension. There was 6 bolts missing off of the TRANSMISSION BELLHOUSING. Engine only held down by 1 engine mount. transmission mount only held on by 2 bolts. Half all the head cover studs are stripped. Which by the way oil is leaking onto the spark plugs, still(never heard that story). The wire harness from a KA was used for the SR(huge mess). Fuel pump was a KA pump, which you said was a walbro. And I highly dbout that the ECU is a tuned one(as said). Still need to inspect the starter situation. I should make you pay for everything that is either stripped/missing or get a good lump of money back. You are very very very lucky that I am not a big fan of money otherwise you would be either in court or seeing a doctor, because that was not worth the money I paid.Oh and by the way if you ever reply to me since the dozens of emails I sent never got replied to...What is wrong with the rear/what did you do to it? I read one of your post about the car handling weird. It makes a horrible noise in reverse with brakes on. Not that I won't figure it out, but just wondered if you did anything.

Not to be an ******* b/c i do feel for ya but why did you not check out the car b4 you bought it. Obvioulsy you wouldnt have known about some of the head bolts but the motor mounts are in plain view.

Ps dude its never to late to issue an a$s whoppin. Bag of oranges works wonders. Hurts like a ***** espically if you break the skin then OOOOO burnsville ahead.

Btw bro if you really did **** 5upra that bad i hope you come back as a gay man's a$$hôle. So you get F&$ked worse than you got him.

[95lstegman]

they are really unneccessary IMO. a good manifold can be very very close to the performance of ITB's on N/A cars, but with boost it's almost pointless. you have to have a pretty good size plenum on it to allow the stacks to work right, and in that pic, there almost is no velocity stack on them. just get a GReddy manifold and some larger t/b (i'm thinking 60-65mm would be the best, certainly no larger or your engine may turn into something of an on/off switch) and be done with it. or stick with the stocker for way better low end.

[5upra]

Not to be an ******* b/c i do feel for ya but why did you not check out the car b4 you bought it. Obvioulsy you wouldnt have known about some of the head bolts but the motor mounts are in plain view.

Ps dude its never to late to issue an a$s whoppin. Bag of oranges works wonders. Hurts like a ***** espically if you break the skin then OOOOO burnsville ahead.

Btw bro if you really did **** 5upra that bad i hope you come back as a gay man's a$$hôle. So you get F&$ked worse than you got him.

Hey man its cool...I don't think any one looks for every bolt on a engine(it passed the glance test). And for the mount it has the rubber bushing but there is no nut to bolt it too the engine. The way I look at it is as long as he doesn't have it...its better off!

[SR20Monster]

hey 5upra, who was that post about the screwed up car commented to? i didnt ever sell you a car..

[slik_s13]

i think he's talking about the person who started the thread, i think???