Bigger cams doesn't always = bigger numbers. Nothign personal against you, but thats one of the biggest problem with SR20 guys anymore...sticking some huge bumpsticks on t2 based or similar turbos. 260 to 266 duration cams are ALL you need to create the most potent street car you can. Why shoot for 400 hp when you can make v8 torque down low at the expense of some magazine hype peak number. Mean HP > Peak HPredtop91 wrote:I wouldn't be too concerned. Bigger cams and the extra 3 psi would put you close to 4 IMO. Have you ever used the .64?
So you're basically saying that you could give to hoots about how a car runs on the street, as long as you make big dyno HP??? Isn't that a bit to say the least?redtop91 wrote:I understand what you are saying but what is the practicality of low end torque on a dyno? He didn't say he was aiming for a particular street feel. Just numbers is what we are focusing on.
Now Im' really confused. You're calling my pyschic, yet you are the one that initially assumed as to what his goals were? Pot calling kettle black for sure. Not that I know the original poster personally, but from followinghis posts and threads, I feal as if I can relate to what his goals are, and what he wants to do with the car. Don't let my small post count fool you into thinking Im' some block headed newb.redtop91 wrote:I'm not trying to argue with you but you are being d!ck to say the least. I didn't say anything about what I want (which is also irrelevant). This thread is about a dyno sheet nothing further. Unless you are psychic you don't know what his plans are so your opinion on which horsepower is "better" is irrelevant. No point in continuing the discussion.
See that's where I don't agree either. It has the same compressor (accordingly the same map for it as well then too) as the .64 2871r. By doing that, assuming he can spool 16 psi at 4200/4500 rpm witht he larger turbine housing, it would put him i the 70/72 % effeciency range....which is DAMN good at that psi IMO.karmakaze wrote:It should be pointed out that a dyno of a gt2871r .86 at 16psi won't do the turbo justice. It does not enter its efficiency range until about 17.5 psi
Looking over past setups, you would have seen that the .86 turbos generally spool 800-1000 rpms later than .64 housing setups, but typically gain 10-20 more peak hp. I'd rather take the 300+ ft lbs at 3600 than at 4400.redtop91 wrote:^ Have you used the .64 and .86 A/Rs? Is the .86 really as laggy as people would make it seem (compared to the 64 that is)?
And the latter question was addressed to karmakaze.redtop91 wrote: No point in continuing the discussion.
Well put. That's why I stress that mine is setup for HPDE abuse, and not drag racing or top end racing....there is nothing wrong with either way ya go thoughDrifterProdigy85 wrote:Also realize the dyno runs started after 3000rpm so the peak torque is a little later than other starting there runs at 2000-2500rpm. The car is real fun to drive as long as your above 4krpm and dont mind a second of lag.
LOL I love hearing stuff like this. In my 'street racing' experience, it takes a 500 whp domestic to beat my .64 full weight s14.DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Hell, just Saturday i was running 19psi and beat a Kenny Belle Charged Mustang that was Dyno Tuned to 450whp. Wasnt even much of a contest. I had an extra 300lb guy in the car and pulled the Mustang by 4 cars from 45-130mph. I really need to get to the track.
Use the quote feature so we all can know then. And I'll never quit when I know I'm right. You said somethign silly, admit it, move on.redtop91 wrote:LOL. You really don't know how to quit. And the latter question was addressed to karmakaze.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Ive owned both and can say the the .64 is a hell of alot better on the street but the .86 will win in the 1/4 or Top End runs. The .86 has rediculously ****ty response/low end. Id honestly compare its drivability with a GT35R.
nevermind that i used to use this turbo. when i hit 17.5psi till 21psi i new it. that was the sweet spot.codyace wrote:
See that's where I don't agree either. It has the same compressor (accordingly the same map for it as well then too) as the .64 2871r. By doing that, assuming he can spool 16 psi at 4200/4500 rpm witht he larger turbine housing, it would put him i the 70/72 % effeciency range....which is DAMN good at that psi IMO.
The trick however between these to turbos is the turbine efficiency, which I have no clue how to read, and most manufactuers dont' even provide.
Again, 16 psi is just fine for this turbo.
Trust me, I can feal it as well, but 16 psi is still in the sweet spot according to compressor maps. 20 psi is just 'more effecient' if that is such a term.karmakaze wrote:nevermind that i used to use this turbo. when i hit 17.5psi till 21psi i new it. that was the sweet spot.
If you're building a 2.2 why not step up to a 3071 with a divorced housing (or even a normal 3071r.karmakaze wrote:i wanted more top end than the .64 could offer me though. so now i am building a bored sr22 with a gt2876r .86
Eyh, that would be a toss up. I would certainly love to see a dyno...again looking at maps it would be a close call to say the least...however there has got to be a reason the 2876r's are more popular...karmakaze wrote:i think that even on a sr20 the gt2876 will spool faster.
Got mine 2 years ago from some random site that had them on sale..paid 1050 for it then..I know they're higher now.Deadrodent wrote: what did your guys 2871r cost you? did you buy it new or used and from where?
Speaking with mike kojima and member Steve Shadows (on Z ilvia and FA), they both exclaimed that by advancing the exhaust cam gear 2 to 3 degrees(at a minmum) on the t2 based turbo setups is going to help with overlap issues, and make the engine just simple breath more effeciently. Both exclaimed newfound torque thoughout the rev range, as well as quicker spool up. Both said gains are sometimes also found by retarding the intake cam, but it's a hit or miss.DrifterProdigy85 wrote:I think youll have less lag than me.
Only reason i havnt really done Cam Gears is just not knowing enough about them and havnt seen anyone go indepth to explain how they effect the powerband.
I just edited my post to help out more, but as they said:DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Will advancing or retarding the Cam Timing mess anything up? Id hate to blow something from not knowing what im doing.
(I can't find my PM from SteveShadows, but it's similar)Mike Kojima wrote:As far a cam timing, this is my personal opinion.
With a 2871 with a smallish .64 housing and a stock mainfold, you are porbably back pressure bound. In this case its better to spread the lobe centers, starting by advancing the exhaust cam 2 or 5 degrees, then trying to retard the intake 2.5 degrees at a time. Engine should run better.
Now if you were to run a bigger turbo and a longer runner equal length manifold with perhaps a divided housing and a pulse type design, I would try tigtening the lobe centers much like a nprmaly asperated engine to see what happens.
I am going to experiment with this on a 4G63 to see what happens (proper manifolds can just be bought for this motor) This did work really well on the XS GT-R.
all in time.codyace wrote:If you're building a 2.2 why not step up to a 3071 with a divorced housing (or even a normal 3071r.