GT28 Turbo on CA18DET

[phantom_legend_240]

Okay, im reading around to see what kind of turbos i can put on a CA18 once i get the motor. Im buying odds and ends type pieces like plugs and timign belt to change out before doing the swap. Ive heard of people using an s15 SR20 GT28 Ball Bearing turbo on their CA. I have a couple of questions about this. First off, Ive heard that you need an oil line or something of that sort to make it work on the CA. Which oil line needs to be changed/adapted? Also, will the turbo bolt right up or will i have to modify it like rotate the compressor housing? I found what looks like a good deal for a new GT28 Garrett turbo, and want to know if you guys think its a good deal too? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

[89'ClubK's]

You'll need to modify the oil line on the bottom that goes into the oil pan. Coolant lines really are not that nessarry if you're running a FMIC. Plug it. You will need to clock the turbo in order for it to fit, as well install Cusco or Nismo motor mounts. The KA mounts make the CA18 lean more and will not clear. The "Disco Potato" is good for 300 whp. Good Luck!

[M374llic4]

Wet floating ball bearing? thats not a ball bearing cartridge, Isnt a floating bearing a journal and thrust type bearing? That would be a major difference. Arent S15 T28's non ball bearing? Maybe im just confused D :

[Kouks]

s15 spec R turbos are definitely ball bearing. Older s14 t28s are thrust type, as well as the t25s on the ca/sr.

You should be able to get 280-290whp on a CA.

[knightrider]

Coolant lines really are not that nessarry if you're running a FMIC. Plug it.

ok, can you please explain what a front mount intercooler has to do with running water to the turbo?

i would highly recommend cooling your turbo with the water lines if you have a ball bearing, you will cook the bearings if you dont. the water passages are there for a reason, not all turbos have them, but the ones that do are designed with the intent that the installer will use them. why risk something you just spend 1000$ on because you were to lazy to hook up the water lines.

[89'ClubK's]

The manufactuor over designs everything. The FMIC will cool the turbo enough. On some turbo's the coolant lines can be a pain in the arse to hook up. ( My hands are slightly larger than Japanese). My friend runs a top mount T3-T04 w/o coolant lines or oil cooler. It never gets too hot. Take the time if you must, but it really doesn't matter much. I, on the other hand, will be running an oil cooler.

[c-rad]

The manufactuor over designs everything. The FMIC will cool the turbo enough. On some turbo's the coolant lines can be a pain in the arse to hook up. ( My hands are slightly larger than Japanese). My friend runs a top mount T3-T04 w/o coolant lines or oil cooler. It never gets too hot. Take the time if you must, but it really doesn't matter much. I, on the other hand, will be running an oil cooler.

W-T-F? Dude, WHAT are you talking about??? A FMIC cools the air coming out of the turbo. The coolant lines to the turbo cool the center section of the turbo.

Also, if the turbo is setup to use water cooling, you should use it as the oil passages are a lot smaller and insufficient to keep the housing cool. "Dry" housings have much larger oil ports in them.

[float_6969]

Get the Taka lines and use the coolant passages. If you don't want to drop the dough for the braided lines, you can still use the stockers, you'll just have to bend them a little. The oil drain will have to be modified, or you'll need to buy one designed for that turbo. The bolt spacing is different.

I would HIGHLY reccomend hooking up the coolant lines. Seems like a big gamble for a little extra time...

[Kouks]

The manufactuor over designs everything. The FMIC will cool the turbo enough. On some turbo's the coolant lines can be a pain in the arse to hook up. ( My hands are slightly larger than Japanese). My friend runs a top mount T3-T04 w/o coolant lines or oil cooler. It never gets too hot. Take the time if you must, but it really doesn't matter much. I, on the other hand, will be running an oil cooler.

Please quit talking out your arse, if you dont know something, then keep quiet. FMIC's dont cool turbos.

On a t25(non bb), it is okay to not run coolant lines, on a bb, it is HIGHLY recommended that you do.

As C-Rad said, the intercooler only chills the air going out of the turbo, the then cooler air, goes into your intake manifold,allows higher boost pressures, because it helps prevent detonation. Thats it.

[89'ClubK's]

You will need to purchase a Apexi SAFC II, larger injetors, Z32 MAF, and a walbro fuel pump in order for the turbo to be efficiant. $600.00 is about the going price for the GT28. Be leary of the feedback rating. It's not from California, so you'll probably be safe there. One day it will fall in the ocean (have fun with that).

[Not_a_sr]

that looks alot like a 300sx turbo, or a turbo coupe/merkur turbo that we have on a CA18det here at the shop. we paid 35$ for it and it had 30K on it.

also looks remanufactured which i wouldnt spend 600$ on. check with cheapturbo.com you might find a better deal and they are a trusted garrett dealer.

[OmarM]

It has a 60 trim compressor wheel with a 42ar t3 cover

This is what that add said. So doesnt that mean you need a t3 based manifold or am i mistaken? most of the time these things say they bolt right up this add doesnt.

[Not_a_sr]

yeah im pretty sure a t3 manifold will be needed, plus thats awfully exspensive for somthing that might be a reman. like i said i got a good one from a junkyard for 35$ once we cleaned it all up it looked new.

[phantom_legend_240]

okay.. what if i was to get a t28 non ball bearing? Is there really a night and day ddifference between BB and non BB?

[knightrider]

that is not a 300zx turbo, i look at those all day and that is nuthing like a 300zx turbo. also, when he mentioned t3 he was talking about the compressor housing, not the turbine housing, it will bolt onto your t2* manifold. This turbo looks similar to a GT28RS, but its not.

summary for all the skimmers out there:

not a T3 exhaust housing or flange.its a T28, will bolt onto your existing manifold.uses T3 compressor housingdont listen to 89'ClubK's cuz he doesnt know what hes talking about.

[89'ClubK's]

I see you have an SR T25. Do you have any experience in putting a T28 on a CA18? If so, you know it dosn't work w/ the KA mounts. I've told people over and over that the Cusco SR mounts work like a dream. Thread gets deleted?! You will definetly need to clock the turbo in order for fitment. I did, miswrite about the FMIC helping out. They only help w/ cold air, which in turn, makes the turbo last longer. Indiana summers get pretty damn hot (currently 100 w/ humidity). Turbo's going around all day & night w/o coolant lines. Plenty of people don't run them. Z31 turbos' dont' even have them, along w/ no intercooler. My turbo has the lines, and they don't. No difference, other than the manufactuor installed them for the turbo to last longer. Longer by being another 100K miles. Do it by the book, but larger top-mounts are running around w/o heating issues.Best of Luck to all!

[knightrider]

exactly how does an intercooler help a turbo last longer? i really dont understand what you are trying to get at with this intercooler thing. the intercooler cools the compressed air that comes OUT of the turbo, this in no way helps the turbo in any way, the turbo couldnt care less whether you are running a intercooler or not, it doesnt even know the difference. you really really really need some education on this subject, and i dont think you should be touching anything with a turbo because you really dont understand how they work. i never said anything about the mounts being in the way, thats not my point.

see what you dont understand is turbos that are designed with water passages have smaller oil passages, because they are designed for the water to cool and the oil to lubricate. now you dont have to run water on your brand new non bb turbo but why wouldnt you? try not running water on your new bb turbo, and watch the bearings cook. water is better at cooling, and your coolant system runs at lower tempatures than you oil. not to mention if you dont run water you void the warranty. turbos that dont have water passages have larger oil passages so that the oil can both lubricate and cool the turbo.

please stop spreading your bad information, go ahead and preach about cusco mounts all you want, just stop talking about turbos, you info is all bad.

to the original poster, the difference in bb and non bb is not night and day, but the spool up of the bb turbo will be quicker, how much quicker, i dont know. maybe someone here can tell you that has switched from a non bb to a bb, but i myself have not had the time to go swapping turbos and i have a disco potato just sitting there waiting to go in along with a ssautocrap manifold. yes i dont like ssautochrome but when this 100$ manifold cracks, im just gonna build a jig out of it so i can make my own.
Modified by knightrider at 11:25 AM 7/16/2006

[iliketocrash]

i have a question then. if the oil passages are larger in non water cooled turbos then should there be a concern about the turbo receiving enough oil from the stock feed point on the block because of the restrictor and all?

[c-rad]

Also, if the turbo is setup to use water cooling, you should use it as the oil passages are a lot smaller and insufficient to keep the housing cool. "Dry" housings have much larger oil ports in them.

[S2R4200_ONEVIA]

My SR turbo (T25) has had no coolant running through it for 2 years now, I have not "fried my bearings" my car runs 13psi, 6psi over stock. The fact is you people overanalize things alot. When I say you people I don't mean you CA people, just the poeple going on about turbo coolant lines, I think the CA is a well designed engine.

[c-rad]

My SR turbo (T25) has had no coolant running through it for 2 years now, I have not "fried my bearings" my car runs 13psi, 6psi over stock. The fact is you people overanalize things alot. When I say you people I don't mean you CA people, just the poeple going on about turbo coolant lines, I think the CA is a well designed engine.

If you turbo time your car, your T25 will survive. A ball-bearing turbo WILL fry the bearings if you don't use coolant. BB turbos flow a LOT less oil through them than journal bearing turbos do. The whole "frying bearings" thing came when '89 Club K's said he didn't need water lines for the GT turbo which is incorrect information. Nobody is overanalyzing anything. Just trying to set the facts straight. And the facts are, the coolant lines are on the turbo for a reason-- to keep the average joe's turbo alive when he doesn't let the engine idle for 30s-1m after driving.

[Rookieca18det]

Wow... Phantom, I would listen to these guys if you value your investment. Please run the coolant line to the turbo if you purchase it. Even if you think they dont know what they are talking about, even if you are confused by a lot of the misleading info, because in the end do you want to be kicking yourself in the head when your turbo cooks its bearings all because you didn't hook up a coolant line.? Just my £0.02 .

-richard

[r32line]

If you turbo time your car, your T25 will survive. A ball-bearing turbo WILL fry the bearings if you don't use coolant. BB turbos flow a LOT less oil through them than journal bearing turbos do. The whole "frying bearings" thing came when '89 Club K's said he didn't need water lines for the GT turbo which is incorrect information. Nobody is overanalyzing anything. Just trying to set the facts straight. And the facts are, the coolant lines are on the turbo for a reason-- to keep the average joe's turbo alive when he doesn't let the engine idle for 30s-1m after driving.

Agree

[davidricardo86]

Yup.

[bullcitybaddest]

If you are still looking for a ca18det i have a 91 nissan 240sx with a ca18det motor swap that i am selling. If you are intrested email me at [email protected] and we will talk more about it. Thank You ~Speed!!!~

Okay, im reading around to see what kind of turbos i can put on a CA18 once i get the motor. Im buying odds and ends type pieces like plugs and timign belt to change out before doing the swap. Ive heard of people using an s15 SR20 GT28 Ball Bearing turbo on their CA. I have a couple of questions about this. First off, Ive heard that you need an oil line or something of that sort to make it work on the CA. Which oil line needs to be changed/adapted? Also, will the turbo bolt right up or will i have to modify it like rotate the compressor housing? I found what looks like a good deal for a new GT28 Garrett turbo, and want to know if you guys think its a good deal too? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

[driftin8ez]

If you are still looking for a ca18det i have a 91 nissan 240sx with a ca18det motor swap that i am selling. If you are intrested email me at [email protected] and we will talk more about it. Thank You ~Speed!!!~

[r34 gtr]

alright boys, since i HAVE a gt28r on my ca18det, let me just step in here. i am using my stock lines, just had to bend them a little bit to get them to fit. they work fine. PLEASE GOD use the coolant lines. I dont know if any of you have seen how much oil runs through one of these, but its not exactly a ton (have forgotten to hook up the drain more than once). i have no idea how the turbo wouldnt fit with the stock ka engine mounts, i have them, it fits, ill take pictures if you dont believe me. i did not clock the compressor housing, i notched the manifold a *tiny* bit and it fits. ive got a badass spacer my dad cnc'd as well if someone decides they need it, i didnt. cold air after the turbo has absolutely nothing to do with life of the turbo, as its obviously going to still be the same temperature when it comes out of the compressor housing (hot!!). i think the safc is a little weak for properly tuning the car with a turbo that big. i had one, it didnt really do the job. i was always having to reprogram it for temperature changes and my car just couldnt pull enough timing sometimes becuase of the setup with the z32 maf and whatnot. save yourself some pain and suffering and get something thatll control timing, like a greddy e-manage (or standalone, but that can be a bit pricey). the s15 t28 is good for about 280-300whp depending on how its tuned, a gt28rs is good to 20 or 30 more. i have however seen some sr's rape 360-370whp out of one, but im not sure how long it would last like that.

[ch187]

i also have a gt28r. s14 ball bearing turbo. same as s15 for the most part. had julian (the chose one) make my lines out of stainless. i didnt need to clock the compressor housing, but it didnt clear my motor mount, i think it has to do with the manifold you use. im using ssac and it sits it a lot lower than stock.

for the record. i just had mine rebuilt with a brand new BB center cartridge, new turbine/shaft/compressor, and spin balanced for $325 with warranty from Precision.

[dash]

for the record. i just had mine rebuilt with a brand new BB center cartridge, new turbine/shaft/compressor, and spin balanced for $325 with warranty from Precision.

price sounds kinda low. So this CHRA could possibly fit into a T25 shell if machined for the bigger wheel/s ?

[ch187]

no clue. thats why i had the shop order my parts. price sounds kinda low? price sounds kinda good. sure i'll take a brand new warrantied turbo from garrett minus the housings for $325