Anywho. Alright all, thanks!
Appreciate the advice but if you look at the car from the rear, the tires look like / \ and the inside of the tire has steel bands showing while theres a hint of tread on the outside. There is a hint of toe problem but the majority is the camber. Thanks though. (not sarcastic, appreciate all input)Cone Junky wrote:I could almost guaruntee the problem isn't your camber. Most likely the PO didn't align the car after he lowered it and the toe is way off.Have it professionally aligned, check out the spec sheet, then see if you really have other problems.
centralcoaster33 wrote:Wow, cool intake black hole vortex! I bet that adds a couple horses.
I know Alex's Battle Version and Cusco are reputable, solid, and expensive. There's several knock off brands to try, but I'd be wary of their research and design as theres a lot of stress to the suspension arms so properly selected and assemble materials are required to ensure reliability. Short answer, don't risk your life and your ride with cheap suspension arms (imagine the RUCA breaking! It doesn't matter when and where it breaks in your imagination, all situations will be very bad). If you can't afford a quality brand, get the quality bushings with extra camber bolts and use the stock arms (whitleline or energy suspension).
Yeah, after my little icy meeting with a curb they tried to allign the back when they did the front, no dice. Sooooo yeah. Now I need another set of tires and to pick some RUCA's, and maybe some toe arms. Who knows. I'd really like to get some decent rims on it, the 17's just are a bit big for my taste but what can you do right? Only so much at once. Was kind of pleased I got an Apex'i front strut bar with the car, so I guess it's time to stop being lazy and do the suspension up right, then start assembling the SR swap. W00t!centralcoaster33 wrote:Oh, smart. I assumed you have already attempted a proper alignment and had maxed out the control arm. That was a dumb assumption! Previous owners always leave that up to you, (along with any regular maintenance) haha!
Exactly. I know the OP is set on working on camber, but toe eats tire 1000X faster than camber. My race car has been running -2.7 at all four corners for 3 years with absolutley no inner tire wear. Why, because my toe is set correctly.Clawhammer wrote:Camber doesn't wear tires any faster. Toe does, think about it, you're dragging your tires down the road. When I first lowered my car, I drove around for 5 months with -3.5* of camber in the rear before I got all my adjustables and never had any problem cause my toe was in check.
Did they hook it up to the machine? If they did, what is the toe set at? If they didn't, you have no idea what the toe is at and neither do they. I'm assumming you walked in there and asked if they could adjust the front camber and they said they couldn't, but they never hooked it up to the machine.BoostinIX wrote:I hear ya, but I've been to 3 places, all say they can't align it. So, tonight I'm ordering RUCA's and toe links. Aaaaaand....300 dollars in tires later, I have tires again. w00t.