GRRR!

[m0nkeyprince]

okay, i purchased my Warn premium hubs based off of silverpathy and fueler's recommendation, i got the wheel off, then the hub nuts holding the wheel hub in place (had to have someone press on the brakes so it wouldnt turn when im trying to unscrew). However, the hub will NOT come off, i used all my strength, even hit it a couple times with a heavy polypropelyne bat, and all it did was become loose enough to let me spray wd-40 in the cracks to loosen any rust that might be holding it together. Also i could not get the hub cap off, i tried hitting it with a hammer and all :\ VERY frustrating... any suggestions?

[01silvapathy]

Hold up, first off you need to get the cap for the hub off, there is a snapring inside that needs to come out to allow the hub to slide off. If you try and force it you will bend the clip and then you have to find another. Yeah, I have heard that it can be a real b**** to get off for some people, may want to try a little bit of heat followed with hammering in a flatblade screwdriver and just pry off the cap. But definately get the cap off first!

[m0nkeyprince]

whew, i knew something was off, thanks. i thought i didnt need to remove the hub cap cuz of this post

http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=25855

o yea, and i heard something about manual hub caps being bad for my transfer case, but i have a selector switch that goes 2WD,Auto,LOCK and a hi/lo range shifter. Will i have a problem with this even if i put it on 2 WD when the hubs are unlocked?

[01silvapathy]

Yes, I have all mode also. Its very strange and people really have not figured out what really drives the problem. The all mode tcase (atx14) apparently has a oil pump driven off the front driveshaft or diff somehow, vs the manual tcase (tx10) which has no problem. I usually run around town and all with the hubs unlocked which is 90 percent of my driving, i only run into problems on long highway trips over 2 hours. The 4wd light will come on indicating a high temp and begin to flash about 30 min after it comes on indicating an overheat. So I just run the long trips with the hubs locked to avoid that, and around town unlocked. I will lock them every once in awhile around town just to get the oil moving around but its not really a huge deal for me. If you dont like the idea then return the hubs, or just run them locked all the time just like stock. But id reccommend trying it out and seeing what happens. But if your 4wd light ever comes on with them unlocked id def pull over and lock them up as soon as possible.

[01silvapathy]

And here are some pics I dug up, and Id def try and use the new studs that came with the hubs, some dont use them but I did and I have not had a problem with them. Just tighten two nuts against each other then take a cresent wrench to get over both nuts and turn out the old stud its that easy. Use threadlocker too if you have some.

Removal of the dust boot cap


You can see the snap ring in this pic, thats what you need to take off with pliers. That little clip is holding on the hub


Snap ring off and old hub off


One last thing here is the torque order, but I dont know the rates for them someone else might

[m0nkeyprince]

i owe you one bro, i ordered a snap ring plier a while back, its coming tomorow, so i guess ill use that for the snap ring, its dark right now anyways, but thanks. oh yea, one more thing, i have some royal purple grease, should i add some to the splines that show after i take the hub off? and it looks like you reused your snap ring, thats fine yea?

[01silvapathy]

Snap ring pliers are not a nessicity per say, I just used needle nose haha. But snap ring pliers are def nifty for the job. I dont see the grease as being anything but helpful, just dont overdo it, I just took as much grease from the old hub as I could and put it back on the splines. And ya no problem with reusing the snapring, its pretty flexible surprisingly

[fueler]

yeah i removed and reinstalled the snapring using only a pair of flathead screwdrivers. The special pliers would make it a lot easier though.

[fueler]

PS, also some people say you need to remove and reinstall new studs... i didnt have to. My hubs work great with the stock studs. Total hub install took me just over an hour, in my apartment parking lot using hand tools.

[fleurys]

Yes, I have all mode also. Its very strange and people really have not figured out what really drives the problem. The all mode tcase (atx14) apparently has a oil pump driven off the front driveshaft or diff somehow, vs the manual tcase (tx10) which has no problem. I usually run around town and all with the hubs unlocked which is 90 percent of my driving, i only run into problems on long highway trips over 2 hours. The 4wd light will come on indicating a high temp and begin to flash about 30 min after it comes on indicating an overheat. So I just run the long trips with the hubs locked to avoid that, and around town unlocked. I will lock them every once in awhile around town just to get the oil moving around but its not really a huge deal for me. If you dont like the idea then return the hubs, or just run them locked all the time just like stock. But id reccommend trying it out and seeing what happens. But if your 4wd light ever comes on with them unlocked id def pull over and lock them up as soon as possible.

Yeah, i,m the one who introduced the doubt.... The thing is the fsm states that the atx14a transfer case main oil pump is activated my the main shaft. This is where I assumed that <Main shaft> meant front drive shaft.... Which in fact is false. According to the fsm, they consider the rear driveshaft as the <main shaft>. Morpheus and I have confirmed this and it seems it should be safe. Now if you break your rear driveshaft in a trail, you should go back in 2wd or get towed in neutral.

I will be putting these hubs myself this winter (and 33' )

[01silvapathy]

That still does not explain why my 4wd light comes on if the hubs are unlocked at highway speeds for more than 2 hours.

[m0nkeyprince]

its early in the mornin now, ima try again to take the hub cap off, with a screwdriver and my bat. later, when home depot opens, ima get myself the biggest channel locks i can find.

[fueler]

i pryed off the cap with a flathead, by pressing the screwdriver against the studs for some pry action. i had to go all around and do each side a few millimeters at a time, then all of a sudden that thing will just pop off.


i also have the AUTO transfer case.... ive driven thousands of miles unlocked, and never got any 4wd lights

[fleurys]

That still does not explain why my 4wd light comes on if the hubs are unlocked at highway speeds for more than 2 hours.

I know....And that was, if you recall, the start point of when I came in the discussion about the oil pump.... Do you know for sure that the blink you get means high temperature ???

[m0nkeyprince]

i think something is wrong with my hub cap, i just went out and bought huge channel locks and the cap still will not come off. and that was after me driving my screwdriver between the cap and the hub with my hammer for like an hour before.

[RyanEvh]

I know this has been asked before but I've asked different people and have gotten different answers. With the electronic shift transfer case can you switch into AUTO with the hubs locked? I've heard you cannot use AUTO and can only use 4HI and 4LO.

[m0nkeyprince]

I know this has been asked before but I've asked different people and have gotten different answers. With the electronic shift transfer case can you switch into AUTO with the hubs locked? I've heard you cannot use AUTO and can only use 4HI and 4LO.

yeaa you can, with the hubs locked, its basically like it was before with the stock hubs, its only when you unlock the hub then you should be wary of going into 4wd because the front axles are not connected to the wheels as they are free wheeling.

[fueler]

to remove the cap, line up the flathead with one of the 6 studs that hold the hub on.

hammer the flathead so that it gets wedged between the cap and the hub.

pry the cap off, using the stud you lined up as a leverage point.

do this all around the cap.


not sure if thats going to work for you... but it worked for me on both sides. That cap is hammered on there good. You need to pry it off like a gorilla.

[01silvapathy]

Yeah like fueler said be a gorilla with it, it may take some time but it will come off eventually.

Fueler: when you say you have driven thousands of miles unlocked have any part of those miles been in a 55-75 speed zone for 3-4 hours straight without stopping? Thats the only time I ever get a problem is long periods of time at high speeds. All other times it is fine.

Fleurys: Im pretty sure thats what it means, I was reading in the FSM and it could be any number of things but id have to get the light to come on and blink again because the list differs based on the interval between blinks in the light.

Concerning the auto mode, I never have used it with the manual hubs. I was told once that its not a good idea to use them with the hubs, and I am also a firm believer that if you are in a situation where you should need front wheel traction at all, you should already be in 4wd in the first place. Just my two cents.

[m0nkeyprince]

YES! i got it off, i was almost going to celebrate until i realized i still have to do the other side and install the warn hubs.

[m0nkeyprince]

Finished, surprisngly enought the hub cap on the other side popped right off, it was getting the old studs out that was hard. I didnt know the torque specs for the new studs so i just wrenched it in tight with some threadlocker. Thanks silvapathy for ya help.

[fueler]

did you try mounting the hubs to the stock studs to see if they would have worked for you?

the stock studs were more than enough for me.... and helped the install move fast...

[m0nkeyprince]

yea, they did work, but since the studs that came with the warn were longer, i installed those, funny, because when i screwed them in, they were almost the same length as the original studs, so i guess i over tightend it? im not sure. i jsut screwed it in until it was tight then i stopped, i added blue threadlocker too. is this a problem?

[ARKQX33V6]

Use a snap ring circlip type of tool to remove gently the circlip and do not twist excessively, if you have to replace, it must be measured and correct thickness of clip used.
When taking off the center hub cap use a cold chisel, pry in between the cap and hub in many locations until cap pops off. Be sure to lube the O rings with grease or petroleum jelly prior to resealing the cap.