My parts book says that ECU is for a 90 california model. onteresting, since the date code is from 1992 (might support statement that it was replaced under warranty). still, the a18-a(xx)-xxx units have the different board that *should* not require additional pull-up on the data tx line.mxr662 wrote:
The previous owner did have to have the ECU replaced. Could a newer ECU cause this problem? The numbers on my ECU are A18-A32 PO2, 0207, and a large 05.
Andy
What is an " original Ian Calum board"dannym wrote:
Do you have a pic of the original Ian Calum board?
The serial interface one.lino wrote:What is an " original Ian Calum board"
Many ECUs and TCUs were replaced with remanufactured transmissions... usually they have a "Remanufactured" sticker on the ECU though.3Q Jay wrote:
My parts book says that ECU is for a 90 california model. onteresting, since the date code is from 1992 (might support statement that it was replaced under warranty).
slipnfall wrote:Andy: sorry you have having troubles. Just as a quick response, it does sound like the cable is working properly, otherwise that battery voltage you receive back would just be all over the place, if stable at all. If you can return a signal from the ECU that reports correctly, and responds to stimuli (for lack of better terms), then at least the software and connection to the PC is OK.
Ok, so what is the procedure to connect the cable to the car? Key on then connect cable or Key off, connect cable then turn key on? Key on or motor running? Maybe I need to do this differently. I have tried different combinations. I have never got the interior lights to flash off and on when connecting.3Q Jay wrote:My parts book says that ECU is for a 90 California model. interesting, since the date code is from 1992 (might support statement that it was replaced under warranty). still, the a18-a(xx)-xxx units have the different board that *should* not require additional pull-up on the data tx line.
I didn't know they were supposed to... mine haven't. I think I usually just have the car running, then plug it in. Sometimes I plug it in first. I have unplugged it and plugged it in while running... I don't think it matters that much.mxr662 wrote:I have never got the interior lights to flash off and on when connecting.
We're not getting particularly good results with it. I think the ECU is trying to compensate for the cylinder drop... The programmer is still working on it. I have another beta to test today. We'll see where that gets us.3Q Jay wrote:Heath- did ya get the power balance working? i'm dying to try it.
Any idea how the software does this? Can you tell me what the software would need to lock to make the power balance results valid? I'm assuming IAC/AAC opening, and some other things... maybe injector pulse width, timing advanvce?Q45tech wrote:Not all these tests were built into ecu, some were developed later than 1989 and were created in the Consult software..........commanding the ecu to turn off automatic idle speed mainteance and automatic ignition advance control.
I'd be happy if I could get it to read the trouble codesQ451990 wrote:
Any idea how the software does this? Can you tell me what the software would need to lock to make the power balance results valid? I'm assuming IAC/AAC opening, and some other things... maybe injector pulse width, timing advanvce?
Heath
Gave it one more try and it works.mxr662 wrote:I'd be happy if I could get it to read the trouble codes
Whooo hoo! Bet you're reading codes toomxr662 wrote:-Connected
Here's a reman unit!Q451990 wrote:
Whooo hoo! Bet you're reading codes too
What's up with the site? Seems to be a dead link? Just down for the time being or what?slipnfall wrote:.....Thanks again to everyone. Please visit http://consult.hackthebox.org for important install instructions and required device drivers.
Mac users: I don't have a dedicated install guide for you, but just email me and I'll let you know where to find drivers.
Windows XP Homeslipnfall wrote:...As far as the COM ports go: what OS are you running?