Post by
amc49 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/amc49-u275146.html
Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:39 am
I am used to Fords which torque at 200+ pounds. Regardless, the spec has to be hit and even more if that low. I always over torque a little bit anyway.
The torque is responsible for positively holding the bearing/hub/axle snout assembly very tightly, that is what keeps all parts running well.
The axle nut is the most important thing, I don't torque the other bolts using a torque wrench myself.
Judge the part quality by dissecting the price. You must have enough room in there for the bearing to be around $50 by ITSELF, and how I used to separate them when I was in parts. The assemblies with bearing already pressed are the ones that go bad quick, I press all bearings myself to positively get the better bearing. If you pay only $25 for bearing alone it will likely be the Chinese crap one. Brands count too, never use a chain house brand wheel bearing, they are the worst. I've used BCA, Timken, FMF as long as they were the expensive ones, they can have a cheaper Chinese line too if not paying attention. Ignore the bearing box, open it up and see what is inside, there is so much bearing re-boxing going on you will freak out, very common for the part in box to be worse or better than the box label says. I re-boxed probably a thousand by myself, you look for 'made in China' or the better markings of one you desire, sometimes you pay cheap and the best part in the world is in the box.
I warrantied so many of the hub/bearing or drum/bearing assemblies I could not count, many fail in minutes and most in a year or two. The Chinese have a thing about putting less grease in bearings than they should, I used to see it over and over when I bought printing press supplies. The second shortcoming is that they do not spend as much to get the better heatreats that better bearings require.