Grinding from Rear end during low speed turns

[disallow]

Hey everyone.

So after some reading, it sounds like I have the dreaded NTB 10-029 issue, grinding from rear during low speed turns.

I looked up the fix for it, and looks like well over $1000 in parts!

Anyone have any experience with this here? Should I check anything first? I don't have any lights on the dash. But they do all work, and I am certain that the AWD is also working.

Like if checking the electrical connector would help, make lubricating it. Not sure what else, I sure as heck don't want to replace the Electrical Coupling Assembly... Looks like you might as well replace the whole rear end!

Thanks
t

[lexcrob]

Sounds like a new rear end is the solution. Maybe talk to someone who works at a dealer as a mechanic. They might do it as a side gig for you. If I have a problem like that I normally just park around back and just walk in the back and talk to the mechanics. Skip the retards up front.

[disallow]

For now I have unplugged the connector going to the Electrical Coupling. This deactivates the AWD system, which I don't really need in Summer time anyways. At least this will give me some time to see what I want to do about it. I made an appointment at the Nissan Dealer, but they want to charge an hour's labor ($135) just to look at it.

[NOS1234]

If it is louder with turning in one direction than it is when turning in the other it could be a bad wheel bearing. Just a thought.

[disallow]

Update on this thread. I've been driving with my coupler unplugged for about 2-3 months now, but winter is approaching!

After trying to find cheaper couplers (they go for $950 US), I think the less expensive alternative is going to actually be to replace the rear end. I've found a couple local low km rear differentials for about $500. Looks like all years are compatible, and if I go with a 2011 or 2012, maybe I'll get lucky and it'll have an updated coupler in it.

Thoughts?

t

[disallow]

well I've found a used differential from the local scrap yard. $400 for a carrier from a 2010 Rogue SL with 84k kms on it (52k miles).

Need to decide it I want to take a chance with it. I was hoping to find one from a 2012 or newer, as I would wonder if the newer diffs have an updated electrical coupler in them. But I'm just guessing.

Any thoughts on this? If its not a commonly failing part, maybe I should just go for this 2010.

Note that I haven't been able to find the coupler anywhere for less that $1k USD.

Winter is coming and I want my AWD back!