Greddy TD-05h 18g turbo problems on a stock manifold sr20

[dogg4217]

I haven't bought this turbo yet, but a friend has the 18g turbo sitting at his house. So I brought it to my garage to see how it will bolt to the stock manifold of a sr20.

The flange is a T2 and it came with this Talon he bought.

In order for me to get the turbo to bolt to the stock sr20 manifold I had to clock the turbo. Now when I do this, the oil lines are not straight up and down and more horizontal. Also the internal wastegate, the bar doesn't line up the the flapper on the exhaust housing.

Can this turbo work? I am getting it for a good price and if I can make it work the better.

I also noticed that my stock exhaust elbow doesn't quiet line up even though it's a 5bolt flange, but I can fix that my drilling out the whole a little wider to make it line up.

I am also taking suggestions on which turbo I should run on a DD car. My goal in horsepower is no more then 350whp. At first it will be lower until I upgrade the ecu, maf, and injectors. I was thinking either a s15 t28, gt28rs, or a gt2871 .64. But I also see that I can get a t3/t4 and switch my manifold to a topmount.

Here are the pics.

18g Turbo

It bolts up but I had to clock the turbo to clear the bottom of the manifold

By clocking it this is how much the arm is off the wastegate (I had to take it apart so I could move the turbo so part of the arm is missing)

Here is the elbow not lining up to the holes, only off a hair, which I can solve by making the holes bigger

[Kalypso]

you should be able to fit it no problem.

if the center section is attached to the turbine housing via V-band you can rotate the whole thing, simply by loosening it. it looks that easy to me

dump pipe: not a problem.

wastegate, dont sweat it. you should replace it with an HKS anyway

gt2871r .64 is a champion turbo, it really cant be beat. the gt28rs is also nice. but this one doesnt look bad - did you check the compressor map? give me first dibs if you decide not to use it. [email protected]

[Emperor_Tha]

cut and weld an angle rod to the wastegate flapper. Do u know what the stock wastegate open up at?

Damn that 18g is sick

This thread just pretty much answer my question about fitting the Evo iii 16gI was planning on running an Evo viii turbo but the inlet flange was too Wierd to work with

[Kalypso]

Damn that 18g is sick

sshhh!

[dogg4217]

you should be able to fit it no problem.

if the center section is attached to the turbine housing via V-band you can rotate the whole thing, simply by loosening it. it looks that easy to me

dump pipe: not a problem.

wastegate, dont sweat it. you should replace it with an HKS anyway

gt2871r .64 is a champion turbo, it really cant be beat. the gt28rs is also nice. but this one doesnt look bad - did you check the compressor map? give me first dibs if you decide not to use it. [email protected]

Yes if you read, I said I clocked it to move the turbo inlet side some so that it wasn't hitting the bottom of the manifold.

By doing this my oil passages on the turbo are more horizontal now then up and down. I also have a problem with the arm of the wastegate not lining up to the flapper.

[Emperor_Tha]

I'm looking at gt35r right. Looks like u can rotate the center of the turbo if u completely remove the compressor and exhaust housing. Well not mlcompletke off just take all the bolts out then turn it

[dogg4217]

I'm not sure if people can read.

I HAVE TURNED THE TURBO, or what I have already said is I have clocked the turbo.

When I first attempted to put the turbo on the manifold, the snout on the intake side was hitting the bottom of the manifold. I loosened the vband and clocked the turbo down so the snout would clear the manifold.

By doing this, the wastegate actuator bar doesn't line up with the flapper port on the exhaust housing.

Can people not read?

I am wondering if there is a bent arm out there, or different wastegate I can use to solve this problem?

[Kalypso]

yes but what im implying is can you rotate the compressor, the center section, and turbine housings independently of each other?

it seems like it can be separated into the three sections. then the turbine sits against the manifold the center now has its feed going up and down. and the compressor's inlet point however you want. am I making sense?

[karmakaze]

yes but what im implying is can you rotate the compressor, the center section, and turbine housings independently of each other?

it seems like it can be separated into the three sections. then the turbine sits against the manifold the center now has its feed going up and down. and the compressor's inlet point however you want. am I making sense?

it looks to me like your correct, from the picture, i think that the compressor housing is held on via a large snap ring.

[dogg4217]

yes but what im implying is can you rotate the compressor, the center section, and turbine housings independently of each other?

it seems like it can be separated into the three sections. then the turbine sits against the manifold the center now has its feed going up and down. and the compressor's inlet point however you want. am I making sense?

Yes I am going to check that when I get home. I loosened the snap ring and moved the intake side of the turbo to clock the snout down from hitting the manifold. But I did not think to try the other side, thinking that it maybe in three pieces. I will try that when I get home.

Maybe this turbo will work, but then my question is what lbs of boost should I run on stock 370 injectors, stock sr maf, stock ecu? I know most will say go get a tune, which I will but for the time being to drive the car, I was thinking with this size turbo that 7lbs should be the most. I mean the stock ecu should compensate the tune with the 370 injectors and stock maf up to what 240hp or close to that?

I also have a apexi air/fuel that I will be running incase I have to add more fuel. Not much I can do with timing at the time being.

[Kalypso]

I loosened the snap ring and moved the intake side of the turbo to clock the snout down from hitting the manifold. But I did not think to try the other side, thinking that it maybe in three pieces. I will try that when I get home.

Maybe this turbo will work

see!? I can read you can pro'ly remove both sides and rotate them as you please.

do you have a compressor map for this turbo?

Feed it no more then 11 - 13 psi for now.

I think your MAF cant read more then 15 psi. but with a compressor map you'll know exactly how may Kg/s or Lbs/min it flows.this turbo has a bigger compressor housing so it displaces more volume of air at the same psi of your smaller stock t25. with compressor map we can find out how much more.

post it here if you get one, im off to eat.

[Jadesr20det]

i would say if your not going to tune it slap a t25 back on it....the temptation is too great....the mitsu turbos are sicknasty as im putting a 20g on my sr

[Kalypso]

i would say if your not going to tune it slap a t25 back on it....the temptation is too great....the mitsu turbos are sicknasty as im putting a 20g on my sr

I love the ingenuity

there are a lot of very nice - underrated turbos that are affordable and well built.

borgwarner/KKK k27.2 holset HX35

are two others,

[Jadesr20det]

I love the ingenuity

there are a lot of very nice - underrated turbos that are affordable and well built.

borgwarner/KKK k27.2 holset HX35

are two others,

church brother

plus the mitsu turbos are inexpensive journal bearing (i know i know the spool up of bb, but try rebuilding one of those bad boys PITA) and live at 21 psi + nice fat tq curve and streetable ill take 10 plz!!!!....

back on topic clock that ish and get it on.... but i highly reccommend a tune lest you want to start fixing broken parts

[Kalypso]

Jade is right leave the t25 on until you have the tune, maf, and injectors. its less troublesome.

( BB is a little overrated, its a great thing to have,but sometimes its not worth it )

[dogg4217]

So last night I loosened the V-Band on the exhaust side. Took off the snap ring and was able to have the oil holes up and down. It comes apart in 3 pieces. The only problem I will have now is figuring out how to get the actuator arm bent in a S shape so it will connect to the flapper.

I saw on ebay that make replacement actuators, and really I only need the arm and won't use the cheap wastegate.

I know that the compressor is bigger then a t25 and will flow more air. That is the reason I was going to turn the boost down, so I can DD the car. Then when I want more power, I'll upgrade to a tune, injectors and a maf.

I'll look for a compressor map today.

I was going to take pics last night, but I got in late and the camera was in the house. Took me 5mins to figure out the positioning of the turbo and then I went to sleep.

[dogg4217]

Anyone help me understand this map?

http://www.stealth316.com/imag...c.gif

Modified by dogg4217 at 6:18 AM 8/29/2008
Modified by dogg4217 at 8:16 AM 8/29/2008

[rustest86]

i have that exact turbo on my car right now. lets just say, BEAST, and leave it at that.make sure you get the banjo bolt for the feed line, otherwise you have to get one from mitso for an evo IV. its some stupid 1.0 or 1.25 by 14mm thread pitch that no one else uses. a dsm oil feed line works great and bolts right up to the block.you will have to grind a little on the inside of the dump pipe so the wastegate flap dosent get stuck. the back side with the flap an turbine exit isnt as recessed as the t25/28's.for the wastegate arm i just drilled the 2 welds on the bracket, fliped the bracket, and rewelded the actuator to the bracket and bolted it up.

as far as spool time i hit full boost at 2800rpm and can even muster 12psi in 1st gear. it pulls very hard all the way to redline, and would keep going if it could. after you get it setup, it would basicly be a greddy t518z which can support up to 400hp on an SR. with the right mods and tuning of course .

your stock injectors and MAF sensor WILL be MAXED out at 10psi. my emanage was saying 98percent duty cycle on the injectors. so you could maybe get away with 5-6psi, but the wastegate is set at 8-9 psi i think.... i cant remember now

this is one of those secret unknow turbos that is awesome. i scored mine for $300 with less than 500 miles on it. you WILL have to get it tuned.

also one last thing check the turbine housing for cracks next to the wastegate flapper. if theres none or just one hair line crack its alright, it needs to be ceramic coated so it doesnt get bigger, but if its any bigger or more than one, its trash. it cant be fixed and you cant get just that housing.

[Kalypso]

where the fcuk are you guys finding this turbos for 300!? ... lucky bastards.

your compressor map link doesnt load

this thread is full of...

[rustest86]

i got mine from a guy that had a prelude with the greddy kit on it and he blew it up. crappy h22's. anywho he needed money, and i gave him a blown t25. my buddy scored one for 500, but it came with the b18 manafold and ac friendly collector, but its going on a b18c1 so i think he got an even better deal.

another thing on that turbo measure the turbine wheel and housing to see if its a 8cm or 10cm. if its a 10cm it'll of couse have alot a lag. the B series kits come with the 8cm housing, and the preludes kits comes with the 10cm housing. i dont know why but mines a 8cm.

also so yall know standard misu turbos will not bolt up to the SR manifold, this turbo has greddy designed housing with a mitsu center section. mitsu uses a square flange with a circle inlet, whereas greddy used a standard t2 flange.

some compressors maps are on this site:http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htmthere are no real flow maps for the 18g. but compare the flow map for the 18g, which is very close, to the maps for say a GT28rs 62trim or gt35 42 trim.
Modified by rustest86 at 3:07 PM 10/10/2008

[tedstock240]

you are right! the temtation is too much. To put into perspective. 2G mitsu's used a t25. 1G used tdo5h-14b on manual transmission which was bigger, after that tdo5h-16G, tdo5h-18g, td05h-20g. I want to run a 16G when t25 goes bad. Just be real carefull. You shouldn't put on without bigger injectors. And if you ever rebuild the DSM turbos, the compressor, shaft and turbine are ballanced together,not independently like garret. If not put together exactly the turbo will blow fast.