I just got my car back from the shop where I had a Greddy kit installed...
components: TD06-20g turbo370 injectorsWalpro 255 pumpFMIC with 2.5 in tubingGreddy downpipe3 " RSR exhaust ( no cat) grade 8 plugs (two steps colder)Greddy Blue Emanage s14 maf
Questions: No BOV was installed... do I need oneNo gauges in yet... have no idea what my AFR is, timing, or booststock radiator and fan still mounted... does show to overheat, but ???? Do I need a new aluminum rad + fans?? I have a z32 Maf.. would I need bigger injectors and reflash the Emanage?
Anybody have experience with the Greddy kit have any suggestions... right now it seems to run fine and pulls great from about 2800-6000... haven't pushed beyond that.. the motor has about 140K on it with 160 compression across the board... Not looking to blow it up or drift... just a fun daily driver (convertible) with 5 speed conversion.
Greddy Set up questions
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tennisitis
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I suggest a BOV or your turbo may not live as long as it could... Buy a boost, and water temp gauge. Stock cooling should be fine, so something may be wrong.. if you have the money, an aluminum rad and fans wouldn't be a bad investment. You may want to buy a wideband to be sure on your AFR's, or was it dyno tuned? I personally wouldn't even drive my car without a wideband, but i'm paranoid like that.
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C-Kwik
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Re: Greddy Set up questions (tennisitis)
At the boost level prescribed by Greddy, they claim no BOV is needed. I would still get one as even light surge can accelerate bearing wear. Particularly with the Mitsu turbos as their bearings are smaller than the Garrett units. Frankly, I'd still be worried with all but ball bearing Garrett turbos.
2 heat range colder plugs seem a bit too cold, but if it doesn't foul, then you are okay. Running too cold is better than too hot though as cold plugs just foul if they are out of range. Hot plugs can cause detonation.
Guages are a good idea, but not compeltely necessary. They are just to help you monitor for potential problems that could cause major damage left unchecked.
As for overheating, diagnose the problem before deciding how to fix it. The stock radiator should be more than capable of handling the preset boost in a Greddy kit.
You won't need bigger injectors unless you increase the boost beyond the capability of your current injectors. However, if you do increase the injector size, you will need to reprogram the E-Manage accordingly. And if you are using the map included with the kit, you'll have to start from scratch as Greddy's map is locked with a password last I checked.
Don't look so hard for places to spend money. Instead, decide what goals you want to achieve with the car, and then create a road map of parts needed to achieve that goal.
2 heat range colder plugs seem a bit too cold, but if it doesn't foul, then you are okay. Running too cold is better than too hot though as cold plugs just foul if they are out of range. Hot plugs can cause detonation.
Guages are a good idea, but not compeltely necessary. They are just to help you monitor for potential problems that could cause major damage left unchecked.
As for overheating, diagnose the problem before deciding how to fix it. The stock radiator should be more than capable of handling the preset boost in a Greddy kit.
You won't need bigger injectors unless you increase the boost beyond the capability of your current injectors. However, if you do increase the injector size, you will need to reprogram the E-Manage accordingly. And if you are using the map included with the kit, you'll have to start from scratch as Greddy's map is locked with a password last I checked.
Don't look so hard for places to spend money. Instead, decide what goals you want to achieve with the car, and then create a road map of parts needed to achieve that goal.
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tennisitis
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I appreciate those ideas.. i'm still new to the turbo stuff... but so far I'm really enjoying the added power... there was a typo in the overheating.. meant to say It does NOT overheat, but gauges tend to be a little flaky... already bought a gauge pod.. planning on adding a boost and oil pressure gauges.
the radiator would be a nice touch and an easy install... maybe later this fall when it gets a little cooler here in Houston to work on the car...
does anyone know when the turbo is supposed to spool up.. ie, the effective range??
I guess I really need to dyno the thing... the shop just did a "street tune".. as the Greddy is supposed to be pretty conservative on the engine.
the radiator would be a nice touch and an easy install... maybe later this fall when it gets a little cooler here in Houston to work on the car...
does anyone know when the turbo is supposed to spool up.. ie, the effective range??
I guess I really need to dyno the thing... the shop just did a "street tune".. as the Greddy is supposed to be pretty conservative on the engine.
Re: Greddy Set up questions (tennisitis)
I have the Greddy setup, so I will chime in.
No BOV is necessary at the 5.5lbs of boost that Greddy kit tuned it for. In addition, the wastegate does its job quite well.
Later, you will want to add a wideband to monitor your AFR. Personally, I went with the AEM wideband.
You'll probably want a boost controller/gauge as well. I stuck with AEM and got the AEM Tru Boost unit. It serves as a controller and a gauge. It is very easy to use. It doesn't have the fine tuning capabilities of more expensive units, but for a 80% daily, 20% tracking car, it does the job just fine. It also matches the UEGO quite well.
But for your next round of installs, I would highly recommend wideband, controller and a BOV to complete your setup.
It is a very bad idea to turn up the boost without a BOV to relieve the pressure.
The Greddy tune is very conservative. At WOT, the AFR is pegged at 10.
Again, this was my personal preference, but I didn't feel the need to add any other gauges except for wideband and boost.
But instead of opting for the manual transmission swap, I decided to stay automatic for 2 reasons; firstly, the transmission is find and very strong up to 300hp. Secondly, constant boost without losing boost between shifts is quite awesome as well. But again...these are just my choices.
No BOV is necessary at the 5.5lbs of boost that Greddy kit tuned it for. In addition, the wastegate does its job quite well.
Later, you will want to add a wideband to monitor your AFR. Personally, I went with the AEM wideband.
You'll probably want a boost controller/gauge as well. I stuck with AEM and got the AEM Tru Boost unit. It serves as a controller and a gauge. It is very easy to use. It doesn't have the fine tuning capabilities of more expensive units, but for a 80% daily, 20% tracking car, it does the job just fine. It also matches the UEGO quite well.
But for your next round of installs, I would highly recommend wideband, controller and a BOV to complete your setup.
It is a very bad idea to turn up the boost without a BOV to relieve the pressure.
The Greddy tune is very conservative. At WOT, the AFR is pegged at 10.
Again, this was my personal preference, but I didn't feel the need to add any other gauges except for wideband and boost.
But instead of opting for the manual transmission swap, I decided to stay automatic for 2 reasons; firstly, the transmission is find and very strong up to 300hp. Secondly, constant boost without losing boost between shifts is quite awesome as well. But again...these are just my choices.
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ShionS14
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Re: (tennisitis)
I have been running mine with out the bov for about 5000 miles (only miles i have put on the past year and a half) no problems. as far as the water temp, i do see it being a little bit higher than what it was stock but no worries. definately need to get the emange retuned for the z32 maf or put a 240 maf back in there, don't need larger injectors unless you are increasing the boost. if you opt for the retune spend the $45 and get the ignition harness that way you can get a good tune. any other questions you have?
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tennisitis
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Yeah but they aren't known to hold their settings well.
I'd wait, get use to the new power and comfortable with the car as far as reliability goes before upping the boost. Then when you're ready get a good boost controller and make sure you add fuel as well as air (I don't know exactly what the emanage will do without you telling it to do it).
I'd wait, get use to the new power and comfortable with the car as far as reliability goes before upping the boost. Then when you're ready get a good boost controller and make sure you add fuel as well as air (I don't know exactly what the emanage will do without you telling it to do it).
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ShionS14
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Re: (tennisitis)
I would go with an electronic boost controller like the Profec (which I have just not hooked up to my car, come to think of it i the RS BOV too that I still haven't put on gawd I'm lazy!) Increasing boost requires new tune though, the emanage won't just adapt to it.