Greddy kit... 9/1 AFR is bad right? :) Also will not hold 8psi overshoots.

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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Red-KAT
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Found why my car was so wuss....

I was totaly right... Got my wideband in and when I go full on my AFR hits 9/1 and stays there...

But when I cruze I am right on 14.7/1 or near.


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Red-KAT
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crap....

Anyways once I got my downpipe installed my boost will overshoot to 10-12psi when it needs to stop at 8psi...

I cant very well tune it when I cant get it not to overboost...

I need to check all my lines but i wiggeld them today and they all looked tyte...

damn it!

at least I'm 14.7 at idle too...

Who knows a shop thats a greddy tuner around vancouver, wa or seattle, wa...

I go to seattle every weekend so I can do it there also.

Thanks in advance.

Structure240sx
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wow at 9/1 afr my cars falls on its face. the overboosting isnt good, except that you have a wideband. so you can watch to see if its getting lean. as long as its not lean your good. just retard the timing more. no need to pay to have yoru car tuned since you have a wideband.

SunshineAcid
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at 9/1 you can shoot flames!that actually may be *too* rich =Pand for cruising, you can actually go all the way out to 19so you neeeed some tuning mang =P

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Red-KAT
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Well I backed off my timing to -8 under load.

You think thats enough?

I think to fix my boost I'm going to need to mess with the rod&spring on the acuator. The stock pressuse is around 10psi now...

I'm going to bypass my boost valve just to make sure tho.

I have to go to seattle this weekend. so it wont be now.

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C-Kwik
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Check all your hose connections. They may be leaking only under boost. This would cause normal readings when cruising and a rich mixture under boost. Make sure you are using a socket or wrench to tighten the hose clamps and not just a screwdriver. You will not get it tight eneough with just a screwdriver.

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Red-KAT
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Thats a great idea.

I'm guna make sure they are all tite and doubble clamp them all...

I hope this fix's my boost issue.

Thanks.

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C-Kwik
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No need to double clamp. Just make sure the ones you have are tight enough.

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hannibal
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what are you using to control timing? If youre doing a base retard, Ive heard its .5-.75* per 1 psi of boost. At 10psi, thats 5-7.5* retard.

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Red-KAT
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E-manage

Its air intake and rpm based timing.

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hannibal
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Sorry, dumb question...

*remembers that Greddy kit comes with emanage*

cvex
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Red KAT, your not the only one. I recently installed a DP and it shoots up to who knows , i saw it at .8bar so i let off. greddy kit here too. I have never touch the engine during my DP installation. right after the installed took it for a test drive,it overshoots. So i definitley know its not vacuum/boost leak.Let us know how you fix it .

eyustfu
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probably because the turbo is internally wastegated. i have a silencer in my greddy ti so im guessing it helps the boost creep

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virus77
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its probably the fact that greddy designed the kit to be fitted on a competely stock 240sx with stock exhaust causing mad backpressure for a turbo car, this limits the boost. So the wastegate on the turbo is set to boost 8 or so pounds on a stock system. Freeing up the flow will cause boost to go up.

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huguetpj
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Well I have a 2PSI (4.5-6.5) difference (or use to :( ) when running open downpipe or cat... and I'm using an external Tial 35mm WG. So changing the dp could cause "boost creep"b

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GEO
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wait, with the kit DP, did you have boost creep?

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MustangManV6
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boost creep is?

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GlacierFreeze
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Boost increasing from what psi it is set to stop at. ie: Boost controller set to 8psi, but boost keeps climbing past that.

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GEO
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so is the stock DP that comes in the kit, does that make boost creep when installed?

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S-14boy
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I just put the GReddy dp on my and hit 9.3psi the morning after, I have a Profec B and just turned it down.

candela
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Its only creep if it slowly goes past the set point and keeps going, or stays above that point.

It sounds to me like you are just having boost spikes (shoots past for a second then settles back down). This can partly be alleviated by shortening boost controller lines, making sure none are clogged/crimped or anything: and if that doesnt solve it, its prolly time for an electronic boost controller (E-o1, profec..etc) that will take care of it.

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GEO
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ohhh

twotirefryerwa
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Red-KAT wrote:E-manage

Its air intake and rpm based timing.


vancouver, washington huh? Me too. in the middle of boosting a ka24e. see ya sideways :/

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Red-KAT
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I just set my car to 0% 5 gain and 7.0psi start...

I hit like 10psi now in second and 8psi in 3rd 4th and 5th.

its fun... i just backed off my timing to -10 under boost... and at 10psi I'm still rich... or it thinks I am.

I needa make sure I got mt wideband calabrated right.

EDIT: Just looked at the LM-1 manual... 20.9% free air for calabration.... and thats what It reads...

I guess I am at 8.8-9.0/1 afr at 10psi in second gear... I wonder if I have flame out the back when I shift? I do have fuk loads of black soot buildup... I needa lean it out to at least 10/1

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GEO
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why does it spike?

Structure240sx
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retarding your timing i dont think will make you run leaner. actually i know it wont cuz i was playing with mine today on my btm.

im not sure how the e-manage is but i know it can lean out upto 50% with the injector harness. if you have that is the emanage already at -27% because of the 370's? jsut lean it out til you get into the 11/1 afr. i also maybe you can check the air sensor type you have in there. it should be hot wire (hw) 5 for an s14 with a stock maf.

does the car feel quick?

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C-Kwik
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I consider boost creep to be when boost rises past the set psi and remains there or continues to rise. I consider a boost spike to be a temporary increase in boost. Boost spikes tend to be most common just as the motor reaches the peak boost.

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GEO
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so spieks aren;t any thing to be worried about..

Structure240sx
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depends how severe the spike is. if your fuel system is good for 10psi but your spiking to 18psi then you'll be in trouble. my car will spike to 14-15psi and come down to 13psi

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Red-KAT
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I know that retarding my timing will not make me lean... I just want to make sure I dont have knock issues at 10 psi on a stock engine.

Yeah I have my E-Manage set up with the larger injectors... I'll check again when I get my car back from the bodie shop.

But I think my air is set for type 7 or 8... Where did you see it should be set for type 5?

If setting it to type 5 does not work I'm going to tell it that I have 400cc injectors and see if that leans it out enough.

EDIT: What air HW do you guys have yours set for?? also what are your dip switch settings? mine is 2 0 6 with HW 7


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