Greddy 20g kit need help?

[Aaron_9349]

I recently installed the greddy 20g turbo kit with emanage and after 3 days of driving it over heated and blew the head gasket. After replacing the ect sensor, head gasket, plugs with wires and other misc. gaskets my car will not start. Timing has been checked and rechecked. Any ideas on what it could be?

[Tictakman]

how do u know it was ur hg? i thought i did the same thing and replaced mine but it turned out that it was the ring lands due to detonation. i bet thats what it is in ur case too...good luck

Zak

[Aaron_9349]

The reason I over heated was due to an improper coolant flush... air pocket that blew out my core plug and caused a severe overheat. I checked the block for warping, and there is none, just the 3rd cylinder has some blow by, due to it being overheated (right next to the core plug that went) The ring swelled and is not properly seated now, but I still hold 135psi on that cylinder and 160 on all others (still within nissan comp. specs for the engine). Well, tomorrow I am taking my car into class, I am currently a attending Wyotech, and hopefully we will figure out the problem. If anyone has any suggestions they would be very helpful, due to that I have been out here for 6months and it still won't run. Plus, the cars been out of commission for like 3yrs (aside from the 3 days before it blew) Thanks

[Import_Ant]

have you use a noid light and checked to see if you are current at the injector clips? have you checked to see if you are getting spark at all?

if you're getting both and it wont start it's a timing issue, if you're not getting spark start checking your CAS signal and see if anything's disconnected or bad in the distributor. if you're not getting injector OR spark it's most likely a bad CAS in the distributor or the wiring between that and the ECU.

[Aaron_9349]

Well, Class today I accomplished the following...

First off, the base chains and cams are set to stock setting.

Second, I performed a leak down test with cylinders 124 at 95% efficiency, and cylinder 3 at ~70%. Compared the psi levels to nissan for difference and such and they are fine (within spec tollerance). Plus I was expecting the low psi on #3 due to the ring not seating properly after overheat.

3rd, Checked fuel pressure. Pressure was at 75psi (at half way on the regulator)! I backed down the pressure with my nismo AFR to 45psi (stock should be 37-43 according to All-Data). Plus I vacuum tested the regulator to see if it was opperating properly and it had no problem holding or releasing pressure.

4th - Noid lights and spark test. I have brand new plugs, gapped, wires, and have spark under load (with a pre loaded spark tester). And, all 4 Injectors are firing using the noid lights.

5th- DTC. I have a misfire P03-- code (go figure) and an IAT code... due to my sensor snapping off (new one on the way). The IAT would not cause me to not start according to nissan diagnostic charts.

SO... I have fuel, spark, compression... Tomorrow I check the distributor timing, I think this is where the problem is. Yet, 6 weeks ago we were able to get the engine running on Ether through the brake booster line so my question still remains.

If anyone has any suggestions please advise. I have 2 days left in shop to bring my car in, and if I can get it running good enough I have access to a Dyno, so any help would be appreciated.

[SuperSpeed]

It definitly sounds like a timing issue, does it shake, or backfire? I did a head gasket on my 240 after a mishap with a thermostat, when I rebuilt it I didnt refference the Distributor when I put it back in The damn thing was 180 off which only put 1 of the cyl on the correct order, It would backfire and shake like all hell but wouldnt start, Dont assume anything. Double check every thing you did. Dont tell yourself Oh thats so simple I would have never done that or It right I dont have to check it, Timing Is easy, just start over, Set to TDC on #1, Re install the distributor, check the Coil plug is in, check the firing order on the cap to the plugs, if alls good, It should start, also check the fuel filter, if you can get it to start on ether and it runs, check the fuel supply, just cuz the injectors are getting the pulse, who says the are getting fuel. Im off my soap box, good luck

[Aaron_9349]

Well... Problem found

Distributor was off timing. I found a TSB (for those who don't know what this is, it is an update from nissan, like a correction to the manual, found on the All-data system). Anyways, the TSB showed the proper way to position the distributor with cap off so that it lines up with first cylinder. The key is to line the pin with the mark on the shaft so that when it goes in and the gear turns, it will line up the indent with the mark. Plus, the distributor turns counter clockwise, so don't mess up your plug order (otherwise you can have cyl 3 and 2 backwards). So, after setting the engine to 20Degrees BTDC, I installed it and set the plugs up and bam.... she started right up. Idle is a little high (900), but tomorrow I'm gonna break out the timing light and set things strait. My classmate was the one who origonally set the distributor last phase, so I gave him some hell for messing up. Although, I do think running 80psi fuel pressure at idle didn't help either.

I do have a misfire code, but nothing too serious. Yet, now driving the (finally after 3 years) sometimes when I hit the clutch quickly after full boost the engine kills out, but starts right back up with ease. I'm thinking vacuum leak possibly but still have some messing around to do. I guess its one problem to the next LOL. Well, at least it runs.

Thanks for the help guys, and I hope this post will at least help someone down the road with timing probs.

[Red-KAT]

You need to set up Anti-Stall in the E-Manage to keep it from dieing when clutch in.

Its you're MAF reading air input while yer car wants to idle the turbo is still sucking air even if its not going in the engine. Its making you soo rich you just die. (Trust me I have this kit and solved that issue)