Greddy 02 Extension?

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IvanS13
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What exactly is this product?And how are people gaining 10HP's from this?Is the Greddy unit compatible with every other mod, or is there something out there that I might replace the Greddy unit with something else (like when I get a full turbo kit or whatever)?

Thanks.


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hokiruu
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It replaces the pipe leading from your turbo to downpipe, where the wastegate dump and exhaust gases meet. It separates the two, smoothing the flow and reducing turbulence inside, making the gases more easily diverted toward your exhaust. It is also much smoother and larger than the stock cast iron one. This makes it create more power, since the stock one is pretty restricting and small. I am putting it on my s14 SR this Sat. If you get a stock replacement bottom mount turbo, it should still work. To the best of my knowledge, as long as the turbo is supposed to bolt up to the factorylocation/ downpipe, you can keep using it. Hope that helps. I'll let you know what I think when I put it on. However since I am putting it on before installation of my SR, I have no basis of comparison. From looks it seems like a very good upgrade. Oh yeah, it (usually) has a port for the stock O2 sensor and still clears LHD steering shaft.

GraySilvia
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Can't forget that it looks cool :)

IvanS13
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hokiruu wrote:the best of my knowledge, as long as the turbo is supposed to bolt up to the factorylocation/ downpipe, you can keep using it. Hope that helps


See... I am planning on upgrading exhaust manifold/turbo in the future so I am not sure now that I should get this mod.

nismodave
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I put it on this winter ........nice piece!!

IvanS13
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Felt a noticable gain in HP? I might do it cuzz its soo cheap.

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hokiruu
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IvanS13 wrote:See... I am planning on upgrading exhaust manifold/turbo in the future so I am not sure now that I should get this mod.
If you were getting, say the gp sports manifold/turbo set, or a tomei, power ent. etc. bolt on turbo upgrade and a stock replacement manifold it should still work. Something like the Enjuku kit or any top mount turbo setup and obviously it won't work.

ItzGenX
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GP Sports turbine is basically an S15 T28.

Zaxx84
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I was curious about this piece as well, anyone feel any significant gains with it installed?

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hokiruu
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I put mine on Sat. and I can tell you its a PITA to put on, even with the engine out of the car. It comes with shorter studs to bolt to the turbo housing, which is great (and necessary because the stock ones are too long to clear the new extension's shape) but there is still pretty much no clearance. Getting the original studs out of the turbo housing was also a pain, make sure you have a nice compact pair of vice grips to really clamp onto them. I was not able to use all 5 of the washers with the nuts, because even fitting the nuts alone was a biatch. After all is said and done, I am very glad I put it on. Now I just hope it does't crack like every other stainless exhaust component I have had. You can really tell why they made this though, comparing it to the POS stock iron one.

Zaxx84
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I am most definately considering it for my next round of mods.

Cyberkreig
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hokiruu -- about the installation and your other broken SS parts.

I have a cheapy SS manifold, and i am planning on getting a greddy O2 pipe to put on at the same time.. I dont want to have to unhook the turbolines as i dont know what i amdoing in that department.. think that will be a problem?

As for other parts cracking.. what can i do to prevent this? I asked in a different thread about heatwrapping or cutting between runners, but no one answered

GraySilvia
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I have a Greddy O2 pipe, and it has zero cracks, even after the JIC manifold destroyed itseld with cracks, so it should be a non-issue. Think about it, the temperture in the O2 housing is SIGNIFICANTLY less than what the exhaust manifold experiences. I wouldn't worry about it cracking.

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hokiruu
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Cyberkreig wrote:hokiruu -- about the installation and your other broken SS parts.

I have a cheapy SS manifold, and i am planning on getting a greddy O2 pipe to put on at the same time.. I dont want to have to unhook the turbolines as i dont know what I am doing in that department.. think that will be a problem?

As for other parts cracking.. what can i do to prevent this? I asked in a different thread about heatwrapping or cutting between runners, but no one answered


Because I have just started playing with my SR and it's not installed yet, I don't know how much work will be involved with replacing the exhaust manifold. It will proably be easier than the O2 turbo outlet, which will definitely be tricky inside the engine bay. Put down a cloth or something and have a retiever magnet handy because you will be dropping those nuts down into your engine bay until you go nuts-pardon the pun. I doubt you will have to mess with anything complicated like turbo lines to replace the manifold though. You will definitely have to remove all the heat shielding around the turbo and the brackets that hold it. The turbo housing/outlet have two particular studs that are a total pain to reach. Here's a tip-when using the new studs-dont thread them all the way in right away but leave a little sticking out so you have some length to work with. Then thread it in as you need, because they barely made any allowances for everything to fit.As far as heat wrap and cutting, I know absolytely nothing about whether it would help, but due to the fact that welds have been the cuprit in my experience, I would venture to say that would not change anything. Come to think of it, JIC's own D1 s15 had heat wrap all over their own stainless manifold, so there's gotta be at least 1 good reason for that. Hmmmm, maybe you should try that after all...

When Grey Silvia said: "I have a Greddy O2 pipe, and it has zero cracks, even after the JIC manifold destroyed itseld with cracks, so it should be a non-issue. Think about it, the temperture in the O2 housing is SIGNIFICANTLY less than what the exhaust manifold experiences. I wouldn't worry about it cracking."

He's right that the manifold-especially if it's cheap-will be more likely to crack. However, this does not mean that the Greddy O2 extension won't. My Blitz Nur Spec R's hanger cracked off right before the muffler-and you can bet that is one of the cooler parts of the exhaust system. My Greddy header cracked at the collector, too. The reason for this is heat stress on welded areas, thats the only place they ever cracked on me. So I'd say, just know someone who can do clean welding in case it does crack. Both were easily repaired within 15 minutes, so no big deal. I suppose if you want to take precaution you can reinfolce welds when you get the pieces, but I would just wait and see how they hold up first.

GreySilvia:I noticed that the JIC mnifold appears to be made up of many welded pieces. which is trick and looks tough. Did it crack mostly along the welds too? Who knows, despite inferior flow characteristic, cyberkrieg's cheapy header might be durable if it is made of just decently mandrel bent stainless with less welds. I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

Cyberkreig
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Thank you for your advice, i will keep that in mind when I start to get frusterated and start throwing tools around the garage. =)

yeah, my mani is 1.75mm single stainless runners. I am mostly worried about them cracking at the welds where they join.. I'ma rig some kinda bracket to support the turbo weight. I'll writeup a thread when the time comes.

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hokiruu
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Well in that case I would say reinforce the welds that attach them to the flanges/collector and you just might have youself a tough manifold-especially if you do the suppport bracket idea. But just make sure those welds for the bracket aren't the ones that will put stress on the metal. I guess it's more a matter of trial and error. I thought that's what aftermarket R&D was for, but apparently they still havn't gotten it right either...


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