Cyberkreig wrote:hokiruu -- about the installation and your other broken SS parts.
I have a cheapy SS manifold, and i am planning on getting a greddy O2 pipe to put on at the same time.. I dont want to have to unhook the turbolines as i dont know what I am doing in that department.. think that will be a problem?
As for other parts cracking.. what can i do to prevent this? I asked in a different thread about heatwrapping or cutting between runners, but no one answered
Because I have just started playing with my SR and it's not installed yet, I don't know how much work will be involved with replacing the exhaust manifold. It will proably be easier than the O2 turbo outlet, which will definitely be tricky inside the engine bay. Put down a cloth or something and have a retiever magnet handy because you will be dropping those nuts down into your engine bay until you go nuts-pardon the pun. I doubt you will have to mess with anything complicated like turbo lines to replace the manifold though. You will definitely have to remove all the heat shielding around the turbo and the brackets that hold it. The turbo housing/outlet have two particular studs that are a total pain to reach. Here's a tip-when using the new studs-dont thread them all the way in right away but leave a little sticking out so you have some length to work with. Then thread it in as you need, because they barely made any allowances for everything to fit.As far as heat wrap and cutting, I know absolytely nothing about whether it would help, but due to the fact that welds have been the cuprit in my experience, I would venture to say that would not change anything. Come to think of it, JIC's own D1 s15 had heat wrap all over their own stainless manifold, so there's gotta be at least 1 good reason for that. Hmmmm, maybe you should try that after all...
When Grey Silvia said: "I have a Greddy O2 pipe, and it has zero cracks, even after the JIC manifold destroyed itseld with cracks, so it should be a non-issue. Think about it, the temperture in the O2 housing is SIGNIFICANTLY less than what the exhaust manifold experiences. I wouldn't worry about it cracking."
He's right that the manifold-especially if it's cheap-will be more likely to crack. However, this does not mean that the Greddy O2 extension won't. My Blitz Nur Spec R's hanger cracked off right before the muffler-and you can bet that is one of the cooler parts of the exhaust system. My Greddy header cracked at the collector, too. The reason for this is heat stress on welded areas, thats the only place they ever cracked on me. So I'd say, just know someone who can do clean welding in case it does crack. Both were easily repaired within 15 minutes, so no big deal. I suppose if you want to take precaution you can reinfolce welds when you get the pieces, but I would just wait and see how they hold up first.
GreySilvia:I noticed that the JIC mnifold appears to be made up of many welded pieces. which is trick and looks tough. Did it crack mostly along the welds too? Who knows, despite inferior flow characteristic, cyberkrieg's cheapy header might be durable if it is made of just decently mandrel bent stainless with less welds. I guess we'll just have to wait and see.