Great, I get to do it AGAIN this spring!!

[elwesso]

Just checking up on my spring time tuneup... Here is what I have planned...

1. transmission cooler2. Brake fluid3. TCS fluid*4. AC Maintenance5. Radiator drain/clean/refill6. transmission pan drop and filter7. o2 sensors (maybe)8. Interior replacement (woohoo!)

Now for my individual questions regarding each

1. is there a transmission cooler I can get (cheaper) from like advance so I dont have to wait to get one IE the B/M 70268 (im not a nerd for knowning that part number off the top of my head)... One that will fit in the usual position (decided not to put it in the active cooler place).....

2. Whats the best way to do it.....?? Vague question, but I saw this at harbor freight (BTW if you dont know where one is FIND one, its like heaven!) http://www.harborfreight.com/c...38053- My question regarding this is how do I actually go about bleeding... I have read threads on stuff like this, but im illeterate when it comes to bleeding... I know that your supposed to pump the brakes and then undo the valve, then repeat many times.. How will this tool help me (if at all)

3. Is it possible/worthwhile to change the TCS fluid.. I know its brake fluid, any easy way to do this??

4. http://www.harborfreight.com/c...=3952 I was planning on using this vacuum pump and doing my AC vacuum/recharge myself (getting some R134a from walmart), would it be better to let the pros do this (I have a reasonable shop that will do this for me no problem)

5. Pretty self explanitory... However, I had planned on cleaning it myself by mixing up some CLR and letting it sit in there for a while..... Bad idea, as it might weaken the radiator (have heard of this happeneing to heater cores before).. Obviously I owuld drain it out really well first and not let any get in the engine, and flush it out before final fill... Would one of those radiator flush/cleaners be better than CLR?

6. I had a flush done about a year ago, or 7000 miles... hardly time for a flush, however I dont think the filter and pan were adressed (plus I wanna switch to M1 synthetic)... What I had planned on doing is the "poor mans flush" of a complete drain/refill. I hear that if you let the pan drain overnight that 95% of the fluid will come out.. Does the pan need to be off for that, or draining it via the drainhole sufficient.....?

[DAEDALUS]

1) Lots of models out there. Surface area is your friend, wall thickness is your friend and your enemy...heat transfer vs. strength.

2) With this tool you don't have to pump the brakes. The pump-the-brakes method is slow and requires 2 people. Any vacuum bleeder is a better method, except that you can't develop the high pressure difference that pumping the brakes does.

3) ??

4) Not enough vacuum for AC work. 28.3" of Hg is about 1.5" short. Air pressure is 29.92" Hg. Maybe you can save some money going DIY, but get a real pump to remove the air.

5) ??

6) I don't think you'll quite get 95%, but definitely more than 80%. I get >7 qts in just a couple hours. If you're not doing the filter, leave the pan on.

[Q451990]

1. is there a transmission cooler I can get (cheaper) from like advance so I dont have to wait to get one IE the B/M 70268 (im not a nerd for knowning that part number off the top of my head)... One that will fit in the usual position (decided not to put it in the active cooler place).....

You can order it from Advance for about $50. I'd just get the B&M...

Quote »2. Whats the best way to do it.....?? Vague question, but I saw this at harbor freight (BTW if you dont know where one is FIND one, its like heaven!) http://www.harborfreight.com/c...38053- My question regarding this is how do I actually go about bleeding... I have read threads on stuff like this, but im illeterate when it comes to bleeding... I know that your supposed to pump the brakes and then undo the valve, then repeat many times.. How will this tool help me (if at all) [/quote]I've looked at that (yes Harbor Freight is a great place) but like the SpeedBleeders better. That bleeder at HFT looks cheap to me. Some of their stuff is OK, but be careful believing everything you read on a box there!

Quote »3. Is it possible/worthwhile to change the TCS fluid.. I know its brake fluid, any easy way to do this?? [/quote]I'd change it, but I've never done it before... never had TCS.

Quote »4. http://www.harborfreight.com/c...=3952 I was planning on using this vacuum pump and doing my AC vacuum/recharge myself (getting some R134a from walmart), would it be better to let the pros do this (I have a reasonable shop that will do this for me no problem) [/quote]See above about not believing everything you read. I talked extensively with my dad about this, and he and I agree - it's probably a peice of junk.

Quote »5. Pretty self explanitory... However, I had planned on cleaning it myself by mixing up some CLR and letting it sit in there for a while..... Bad idea, as it might weaken the radiator (have heard of this happeneing to heater cores before).. Obviously I owuld drain it out really well first and not let any get in the engine, and flush it out before final fill... Would one of those radiator flush/cleaners be better than CLR?[/quote]Stick to the commercially prepared stuff, I wouldn't risk a home-made concoction.

Quote »6. I had a flush done about a year ago, or 7000 miles... hardly time for a flush, however I dont think the filter and pan were adressed (plus I wanna switch to M1 synthetic)... What I had planned on doing is the "poor mans flush" of a complete drain/refill. I hear that if you let the pan drain overnight that 95% of the fluid will come out.. Does the pan need to be off for that, or draining it via the drainhole sufficient.....? [/quote]

[DAEDALUS]

That bleeder at HFT looks cheap to me. Some of their stuff is OK, but be careful believing everything you read on a box there!

I agree HFT does well importing cheap tools cheaply. Usually if I buy a tool from there it's only as a back-up to my Craftsman tools, or a use-once-and-toss. But the bleeder is a MityVac, which is a decent brand. Get the kit with all the goodies...then you can test other things, like fuel pressure regulators, EGR valves, brake boosters, vacuum system, etc. Their website has some good tips:

http://www.mityvac.com/techindex.html

[elwesso]

If I only use the tool once and it works, id say its well worth the $15.....

I would be replacing the transmission filter..... Thats why Id let it drain overnight (with the pan off?)..... I know I read somewhere that its probably better to have it off.....

Do you guys think that the stuff I could buy OTC to clean out the radiator would be half as efficent as having it "cored"..... I have no reason to believe my radiator is bad because the car doesnt run hot, and the extra fan rarely comes on (only during the hottest summer with AC on, before a Tstat and coolant flush).. So if I can increase efficency by 50% id be happy.....So anyone know how to change the TCS fluid.. I looked at it briefly and it doesnt look like theres any bleeders... Maybe just use the PS fluid method... (suck some out and keep adding until clean)

[AZhitman]

1) Get the B&M. I paid $50. Anything less might be junk.

Radiator MUST be removed and taken to a shop - I was quoted $55 during the winter. Good idea even if no cooling problems.

[elwesso]

I realize for the core job, but it got semi cleaned last year, so I wanna do the poor mans approach!

[AZhitman]

I think $55 is as poor as it gets.

Has it ever been out of the car? If not, do it. Don't plan on any "pour-in" product doing much good.

[elwesso]

I doubt its been out of the car.... I dont really think I can have it down that long.....

Again, I will go for the OTC stuff, and at $5 I cant really go wrong even if it does JUST a little.... How much does a "core job" cost.... I want an "ish"

Ive seen transmission coolers for $30 at advance autoparts, they seem like they're decent quality.... However, if it doesnt fit I may have to put it in the active cooler area, and for that Id need mounting hardware and extra hoses..... With this, I think theres almost enough extra hose to almost reach up there......

I guess ill go with the B/M......

Now, let me do a quick recap on everything Ive learned in case I need some clarification!

1. Got that taken care of, no problems2. What I do is hook up the vacuum bleeder to each individual bleeder valve (on the caliper) and do it in the order that the manual states.... I add fluid to the res while im bleeding...3. No answer on how to do this4. Most likely best to leave it to the pros, as it may not be cost effective to get the tools required to do it right...5. see above6. I let the fluid drain out and then take off the pan (since im replacing the filter), and let the fluid drip overnight, then I replace the filter, put the pan on, and replace with ALL of the fluid I took out (obviously with new stuff).... Might this overflow the pan??

[DAEDALUS]

2) Each caliper has 1 bleeder. Top off the reservoir, attach the pump, loosen the bleeder, and then vacuum out the crap. You'll have to stop periodically to top the reservoir off. Don't let air get sucked into the lines from the reservoir. Stop when the fluid coming out is the same color as the new fluid you put in there. The rear brakes will take longer than the fronts obviously. You'll probably have to stop to empty out the pump reservoir. Do NOT let any brake fluid enter the hand vacuum.

6) Overflow the pan? This will probably be the messiest job you will ever do on a Q.

[elwesso]

For no 6, what I was saying is that do you add a little bit of fluid, start the car (for the ATF pump to pump some into the system), then add a little more, then add until completely full? I saw that on one site this is how you do it (something with audi trannies).... IF the pan only holds 3-4 qts, how am I gonna go about replacing the 10+qts I might drain out overnight without making a mess.....

This brake fluid flush doesnt sound too hard.... Especailly with a pump... HOwever, how much fluid would I need......? I would assume I could just replace all the fluid in the res with a turkey baster, and then bleed in the order that the FSM states....

I'll do a little writeup on these things to add to my infiniti.home.insightbb.com site......

I think I got this under control...... NOw to make a trip down to harbor freight!

Also, would there be a reasonably priced vacuum that I could get so i could get a full vacuum of my AC system? Or is it still most likely better to leave it to a shop......

Once I get all these things done, I think I will have a VERY nice running Q.... I may be looking at an oil pan drop this summer....

[AZhitman]

Wes - Coring radiator is a $50 job, and is a one-day deal. Take it out in the morning, drop it off, do the rest of your maintenance and then go pick it up.

For the trans, drain overnight w/pan OFF. Replace pan, add 5 quarts, run in park, cycle through the gears (stopped), check again. You'll likely only get 5 qts out by draining, as TC holds a lot.

[DAEDALUS]

You'll likely only get 5 qts out by draining, as TC holds a lot.

I've drained the pan on 3 Q's including 2x on mine. I've never gotten less than 5 qts. With an overnight drain, I would expect to get at least 8. The first time I did this I let it drain overnight and in the morning I found my 8qt container overflowing with ATF. What a mess. The last time I did this I got over 7 qts in just a couple hours, measured out by refilling empty oil bottles.

Wes, pick up a 32 oz container of brake fluid. I'm sure you'll use at least half the bottle, and you'll have extra just in case.

[elwesso]

Thanks for all the help.....

Im still thinking about the radiator coring...... Ill try doing my flush with water and some CLR and see what that gives me.. I know I might be eating my words later but I guess thats the way I work..

Is there any way to do a TC drain, or is that mucho involved......

Im starting to thikn that its gonna be better for me to just do the pan drop/filter, then refill with regular ATF (whats in there now) and do a full flush later.....

[AZhitman]

My bad, Rob - 8 quarts is good.

Time for me to do mine again.... My, how I wish she had a drain plug.

[psychic_mechanic]

My TCS fluid is pretty dark, I was thinking about sucking it out with a turkey baster to replace the fluid. Also works on master cylinders, just be sure not to drip any on the paint.

[elwesso]

I was wondering about the TCS fluid if there are any bleeders... The turkey baster method would be OK too, but more time consuming.....

I wonder what dennis has to say about this..... I dont recall him ever mentioning TCS fluid changes......

[psychic_mechanic]

I told my wife a couple of weeks ago I wanted to change her "traction control fluid" and she looked at me like I was telling her she needed to have her blinker fluid topped off.

[elwesso]

Ok, this is a little bumpage.....

I am also adding to this list to check my oil pressure and changing the sender (hey, its only $10 might as well eliminate as much as I can)

Id like to find my own gauge/adapter so I can do it myself, and record as many measurments as I can (watching it go up as temp goes up and what not). However, Im having problems finding a gauge to do this. Harbor freight doesnt have one ( ).... Autozone didnt mention anything about it on their website.

Where might you suggest that I get a gauge/adapter. If anything, id just need the adapter because im sure i have a gauge somewhere! But both would be best.

My other option is to have my independent do it, but they may not want to take the same detail as I would want, therefore making my money spent there futile. However, if you think this would be the better option im all for it.

It would be most likely going there anyway for AC service (which depending on cost may/may not happen)..

[elwesso]

http://www.valvoline.com/pages...ct=29

I was looking at this stuff, and looking at the MSDS it looks like its safe. Maybe I could use this stuff for like 3 weekly oil changes???