Hey guys this is a serious post so try to refrain from laughing to hard. I drive the thing.
I need to find my options here for my car obviously performance is not an issue for me. I currently have 155r12 tires on my car with a 4 lug pattern 17mm head lug nuts 10mm studs. I used the tire calculator but it doesn't seem to work for tires with no series number. what I wanna do is step up to a 13 inch tire but unsure if rims are available for my lug design. But if so I need the conversion for what size will keep my speedometer in line. I need to replace the rims because both rears are bent. stock wheels that were like that since I got the car. Even though its not a performance car some cheap crome wheels would help add to its humor. I dont think its model will help much since it doesn't list it in wheel upgrade drop down menu. but here it is anyhow 1991 Geo metro (3cyl of raw horespower) go easy on me guys its a commuter.
Scott
grant or chet.
wow.... never had anyone ask aobut upgrading those before. I think tires without a series number usually are "80" series, ie155-80-12 (im 95% sure, anyways) a good alternative for you would probably be a 165-70-13 or similar sized tire...as far as wheels go, whats the bolt pattern? 4x100? or what(I dont know those cars :/)
it looks like the 175-70-13 will be the most widely available, and wont screw your speedo too bad(like 5%). grab a set of yokohama avid touring tires, and you're set.
as for wheels... thats gonna be tough. if you can find the bolt pattern, I can try to do some calculating for you(or wait until I get to work and can look it up..whatever easier for ya)
-chet
it looks like the 175-70-13 will be the most widely available, and wont screw your speedo too bad(like 5%). grab a set of yokohama avid touring tires, and you're set.
as for wheels... thats gonna be tough. if you can find the bolt pattern, I can try to do some calculating for you(or wait until I get to work and can look it up..whatever easier for ya)
-chet
no rush man just getting close to needing front tires so was gonna take care of the shakes from the rear all at once. let me know if you got anything goin at the job when you get around to it. I have got time wont be driving it this week at all. I have got the week off.
EDIT: sorry forgot the pattern is 114.3mm
EDIT: sorry forgot the pattern is 114.3mm
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Grant@tirerack
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lessthanjakejohn
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Nismo_Freak
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NISTECH wrote:no rush man just getting close to needing front tires so was gonna take care of the shakes from the rear all at once. let me know if you got anything goin at the job when you get around to it. I have got time wont be driving it this week at all. I have got the week off.
EDIT: sorry forgot the pattern is 114.3mm
Scott... should have asked me... you know me and my friend put wacky **** on the Metro
We put my friends S13 wheels on the Metro and they look like 20s
We also put his JDM 180SX sway bar on the front for a cool deer-killer type attachment.
- Alan
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lessthanjakejohn
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guys not serious about the open wheel or tubbing thing. still curious if they will rub body or when turning. the outer diameter will be real close to what i have now but the width may become an issue let me know. but first need to know if there is any cheap crome 13" wheels available for it first. the diameter of the lug hole would seem to be more of an issue then anything since they use 10mm studs instead of 12mm.
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s13sr20chris
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out on a limb, but what about junkyards? does the 4banger(big block) metro have 12s as well? maybe the 4 cyl had like a big 13 inch sport package or something. if so you could prob call one of those junk yard places and have them search all the yards around you. i am totally serious, i just could not help a little sarcasm.
actually i thought i would have gotten blasted hard core on this. I do know the newer model chev metro's have 13 inch wheels on them but I am not cosidering doing the equivalent of the 300z brake upgrade to the 240?I have often pondered if the car ever broke down rigging it up in the rear to accept a 4 cyl transverse mounted engine that over hangs the rear wheels, removing the front engine, affixing a couple willie bars.. so I could drive around popping willies.
I would need to do no weight reductions from the front since i can lift it off the ground by hand with the engine removed.
I would need to do no weight reductions from the front since i can lift it off the ground by hand with the engine removed.
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s13sr20chris
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s13sr20chris
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yea my block and head are all aluminum the only thing cast on it is the exhaust manifold. used the manifolds as my handles when sliding off the trans input shaft and lifting it from the vehicle. It is very light ,it was more ackward then anything when getting it out and sliding it back in. The whole car is just amusing to me. Its got a b***hen sound system since I gotta drive it 70 miles a day gotta have tunes. I just figured I would add shiny rims and semi wide tires to it for giggle factor..lol But since it has such small lugs I dont even know if there is anything available out there for it. I sure as hell know they dont have 12 inch cromes that would work. Thats why I hit up the rim pro's here. I knew they could tell me for sure one way or the other.
Grant@tirerack wrote:The 275/70-13 size is going to rub, at least that's what our fitment techs tell me here. 165/70-13 or 165/65-13 would be better sizes on these cars when going to a 13".
HOLY MOTHER OF GOD!! 275/70-13?!?!?! do they even make tires like that? i'm thinkin a 13x10 rim at least! yah. . . i'd agree that that would rub on a metro hehehe
One question, whats the biggest size wheel i could mount on an 18x8 rim, without rubbing on an s13, i have right now 17x7 in the from with 215/45 and i was going to put some 18x8 in the back to get a deeper lip and some wide tires, whats the widest i could go without rubbing, what offset will i need on the rim? I was thinking maybe 255/45 is that possible? Thanks
persistent little thread stealer aren't we? I removed your other post due to lack of searching aorund, and posting in someones thread(thread stealing), and I'll do it again. please refrain from nnot doing some research of your own, we've coverd various tire sizes and rim widths and things many many times, and you obviously didnt evne read the "attention" sticky.-chet
14 would be hilarious. but the studs are 14mm dia on all nissans most american cars are 12 mm studs. I am more worried about stud hole dia. then anything. you dont have any listings for it thats cool I was just trying to may my clown car as circus as possible...lol I will keep my eyes peeled for some wheels with the small lug holes. it appears the bolt pattern is pretty common. how about the old volkswagons? I think they had the 10mm lug bolts didnt they?? I dont know for sure they may have been 12mm.
Old VW used 14mm lug bolts...
the 88-01 12" wheeled metro has 59.61mm hub bore, and for aftermarket wheels will require a 42mm to 50mm positive offset to allow sufficient fender clearance.
155R12 overall diameter: 22.13"175/65-14 OD: 22.96"185/60-14 OD: 22.74"(dude, this would be kick arse!)
Check out the ADR Type 25 in 14x6" ....they can be had for cheap, and will fit fine.
Aftermarket 10mm x 1.25 lug nuts with 60degree conical seat are available too.
Hub-centric rings are available too.
You won't find aftermarket wheels with the smaller(10mm) lug holes because the bolt pattern(4-4.5" aka 4-114.3mm) fits many vehicles and a wheel maker makes wheels to fit as many applications as possible. As we know, the 4-114.3 fits many nissan, honda, geo, mitsu, etc. So, all aftermarket wheels you find will be made to fit the larger stud, but the wheels will still work with the 10mm wheel studs and proper lug nuts, with hub centric rings to boot!!
PHIL:)
the 88-01 12" wheeled metro has 59.61mm hub bore, and for aftermarket wheels will require a 42mm to 50mm positive offset to allow sufficient fender clearance.
155R12 overall diameter: 22.13"175/65-14 OD: 22.96"185/60-14 OD: 22.74"(dude, this would be kick arse!)
Check out the ADR Type 25 in 14x6" ....they can be had for cheap, and will fit fine.
Aftermarket 10mm x 1.25 lug nuts with 60degree conical seat are available too.
Hub-centric rings are available too.
You won't find aftermarket wheels with the smaller(10mm) lug holes because the bolt pattern(4-4.5" aka 4-114.3mm) fits many vehicles and a wheel maker makes wheels to fit as many applications as possible. As we know, the 4-114.3 fits many nissan, honda, geo, mitsu, etc. So, all aftermarket wheels you find will be made to fit the larger stud, but the wheels will still work with the 10mm wheel studs and proper lug nuts, with hub centric rings to boot!!
PHIL:)
cool thanks phil. I was concerned with the slop in the lug holes. wasent sure if it would be a saftey issue or not. But you have cleared that concern up for me. I havent worked in the tire/rim buisness since I was a kid working at goodyear. Dont remember any of the details of this stuff from then,hell dont remember much of anything from then..lol I appreciate your input on this. The hub ring your talking about is the disc that fits between the rim and the hub to center the wheel? the one that gets stuck on one wheel ,during a tire rotate, and wont allow the wheel to go on the other axel cause that ring is still on the hub.That I have plenty of experiance dealing with.
