Gradual Gt2871r build question

[freakyjason]

Recently i've been toying with the idea of doing a gt2871r turbo swap in my s13 blacktop sr. Funds are kinda tight right now though so i was wondering if there are parts you could install gradually that will not interfere with the drivability of your car without doing the whole build at once. Like maybe if i installed 555cc (or bigger) injectors one month and a z32 mafs the next would this interfere with the overall driveability? Also, do you guys recomend running an upgraded intake manifold or exhaust manifold with the setup? Also can you just buy ecu's programmed for this setup like the s15 or maybe one re-tunned by jwt or something or do you have to have the stock one tunned? Obviously i am not too knowledgeable on the subject yet and searching wasnt much help in this case. Please dont flame me. Im fragile.

[doridori23]

The problem with doing things over time is mapping the ECU. If you buy a reflash it will cost $400-500 every time you upgrade and that is just stupid. Your options are to either buy parts over time and shelf them for a big install and only one ECU Reflash OR get a secondary computer and change things yourself as you go. If you are not too knowledgeable, own a laptop (or borrow one), are willing to work on your car and drive another one I would suggest the buy and save method and then install all at once with a reflashed ECU. It is not the most fun method or the most tunable method but it is by far the easiest to do from a wrenching standpoint.

[Emperor_Tha]

i believe safc will do for the moment. good for slow engine building.

[bluemax]

I had a leaking exhaust so I thought it would be a good time to change the turbo. Right now I'm running the 2871r with stock (maf, injectors, and ecu) blacktop sr20det. I was told by the "tuner/mechanic" that I can run this turbo below 1bar w/ stock sr20det w/o problems. Wrong! Right now the car is running ~.5 bar with minor problems. 1st gear pull nice and smooth but I get minor stuttering 2nd-5th gear at higher rpm (4.5k + rpm). I did a search and other users said that they run 13 psi w/o problems so who really knows. My car is a little quirky.

Anyway, it's still drivable if you stay out of max boost at higher rpm and don't max out the stock maf . Even at .5 bar w/ this turbo, it feels a little stronger then my t25 at .8 bar. My next step would be ecu, maf, and injector all at once if I want minimal downtime. If I was to do it all over again, I would get a standalone (or piggyback) ecu and tune as I upgrade.

Good Luck

[nwmrkt]

I had a leaking exhaust so I thought it would be a good time to change the turbo. Right now I'm running the 2871r with stock (maf, injectors, and ecu) blacktop sr20det. I was told by the "tuner/mechanic" that I can run this turbo below 1bar w/ stock sr20det w/o problems. Wrong! Right now the car is running ~.5 bar with minor problems. 1st gear pull nice and smooth but I get minor stuttering 2nd-5th gear at higher rpm (4.5k + rpm). I did a search and other users said that they run 13 psi w/o problems so who really knows. My car is a little quirky.

Anyway, it's still drivable if you stay out of max boost at higher rpm and don't max out the stock maf . Even at .5 bar w/ this turbo, it feels a little stronger then my t25 at .8 bar. My next step would be ecu, maf, and injector all at once if I want minimal downtime. If I was to do it all over again, I would get a standalone (or piggyback) ecu and tune as I upgrade.

Good Luck

get that thing tuned asap!

[freakyjason]

...I would suggest the buy and save method and then install all at once with a reflashed ECU...

This sounds like the best method for me considering where im at in terms of finances and tuning ability. When you say "buy a reflash" what exactly do you mean? Do you get a new ecu or do you just modify the maps in your existing one? Does anyone suggest running a higher flow intake or exhaust manifold with this setup and are these mods that can be done without having to "buy a reflash"?

Thanks!

[bluemax]

reflashed ecu = rom tuned ecu = "modify the maps in your existing one" (ecu) [unless you have an extra ecu - search for "enthalphy"]

If you're going with a reflashed ecu, you're better off getting everything together first.

as far as the 2871r on stock s13 sr20det, you can drive with boost below .5 bar or below. I think this is pointless if you have a functioning turbo system, t25 or whatever it may be. The reason I did it is because I had an exhaust leak and thought I might as well upgrade. I was told it would run below 14 psi w/o any problems but that's what I get for listening to other people.

I think you should get a stand alone first w/ a wideband and tune as you go along. Just don't blow up until you get your final turbo/manifold/intake/etc.. of choice. I think I will be happy with what I have because this is my daily driver with AC and all. That's why I decided to go with the rom tuned ecu. Speed however is addicting so I think you'll upgrade to several turbos before you decide your next better fast stronger project, a stand alone might be better and you can take it to your next project

get that thing tuned asap!

I will but so far it is drivable, just not as fun.

good luck

[TSuaVe]

I'm on the same path as you. I've taken the little at a time approach. First thing, I purchased a Tech Edge Wideband O2 and Calum's Realtime ECU. This basically gives me a USB port to the Nissan ECU and the ability to adjust in realtime according to my Wideband. Should work well for street tuning. I just installed my Z32 MAF and have purchased but not installed 555cc JECS injectors. I've already researched and reprogrammed for the new maf which was a piece of cake. The only thing I can add about tuning your self, you MUST be interested in doing this and meticulous when it comes to getting it right. +++ You must be able to do research on every aspect of your mods and what to expect when it does come time to tune. It can be done and I will prove it right along side those who have come before me!