got my swap running and now this.....

[yourmomsrps13]

so i got my car idling and running but when i went for a ride..1. transmission was making a squeaking/squealing noise (new exedy KA clutch on CA flywheel)

2. then while driving it starting spewing coolant from....(see pic)(dont mine the typo)coolant line*so now my question to my brothers is....what should i do to keep that metal tube in the manifold? tap it in with a hammer and then JB weld it?

other then that i just need to time it and she should be ready to rock and rolloh also my shifter seems loose

[datsunboy]

I can't really read that crappy yellow text ( maybe it's just cause I'm slightly colour blind ).but anyway....if your talking about the water line that runs to the end plate of the manifold, then out again through another water line on the same plate, then just join those 2 hoses together and forget about the fittings on the plate.

it only runs water through there for some stupid emmisions reasons.....same goes for the water running through the throttle body.

I by-passed them both.

[yourmomsrps13]

thats another idea i was thinking but i wasnt sure if it was a cold start intake air warmer. anyone else think this is a good idea?

it only circulates through the collector cover? or through more of the intake mani?
Modified by yourmomsrps13 at 8:24 PM 10/31/2005

[dattodude]

Yeah lose it.

Block up both hoses with a bolt and a hose clamp.

I removed the front and back plenum warmers from my ca18det when I rebuilt it. They were rusty and corroded, and a failure waiting to happen.

You only need that stuff when you are in heavy winter conditions.

I run an Autronic SMC, Autronic CDI and external coils on my CA, it idles at 450rpm now, even when cold :-)

SO, never fear, a well tuned CA18 can do anything.

[niscort]

just remember when you block these off to run a new line to your turbo as one of these lines is the feed for the turbo. ie water rail -> manifold(problem) -> turbo -> block return

[c-rad]

just remember when you block these off to run a new line to your turbo as one of these lines is the feed for the turbo. ie water rail -> manifold(problem) -> turbo -> block return

Meh, get a brass T and put it in the heater hose... problem solved

[float_6969]

That thing has NOTHING to do with emmissions or warming the manifold or any of that crap. That "stupid" thing is there to cool the turbo after you shut the car off. If you don't hook it up that way you're not cooling the turbo after you shut off the car and you might as well just not bother hooking up the coolant lines to the turbo in the first place.

The only time that the coolant lines are helping the turbo is when the motor is off. While it's running, the oil is doing most of the cooling. When you shut the car off, everything starts to heatsoak and the center section gets hot. It also heats up the coolant thats in the center section. As that coolant gets hot, it rises up the metal tubing twords the back of the manifold. As it rises, something has to take it's place. Coolant does. Much cooler coolant. So the cooler coolant moves into the housing, cools it, heats up, rises, new coolant moves in, ect.

It's called convetion cooling. They used to use it in old tractors. They didn't even use a water pump, just 2 hoses and a radiator.

But for the system to work it HAS to go up to a point higher than the turbo (back of the manifold) and it has to be cooled back down after it leaves the turbo (the manifold acts as a heat sink for the heated coolant leaving the turbo, hence the reason the other hose that leads straight down)

[yourmomsrps13]

great info, thanks! but now what should i do to fix my problem? has anyone else had theirs come loose?

[ca18detdrift]

Meh, get a brass T and put it in the heater hose... problem solved

I plugged mine with a hose and a screw in the hose. but i was planning on doing what C-Rad said haha.

My turbo has no water lines going to it, and my heater lines (from the engine) are welded shut so i have no heater. so i was going to get a brass T and plug them into my heater hoses haha that way i at least get SOME heat coming out of my heater (especially since its starting to get cold outside!)

[float_6969]

great info, thanks! but now what should i do to fix my problem? has anyone else had theirs come loose?

LOL, sorry, I was ranting and forgot to tell you how to fix it!

AFAIK, nobody's had theirs come loose, but that doesn't really matter. If it was my car, I'd JB weld it back in. That should hold it for a long time.

[biosehnsucht]

the bleed screw is on that thingbut since no one ever uses it.. lol

its impossible to use in stock form, next time I'm changing coolant I'll be putting a bolt there w/ same thread so it can be turned w/ a socket / wrench instead of trying to get back there with a damn screwdriver...

as for it having a convection cooling effect, not sure about that, but the RWD CA18DE in the S13 Silvia has the same block on the back of the intake mani for the bleed screw, the difference being instead of connecting to the turbo return it connects to the big heater pipe crossing behind the engine (since it's RHD, the heater core is on the left side, so ... )

[yourmomsrps13]

I tapped it back in with a small hammer and then JB welded it and its been holding good.......found the transmission/clutch noise-----dust collar was too long and rubbing again the driveshaft bolts(even after i cut it short). only problem i have now is my car stumbles and sputters all the way up to 3,000rpm and then pulls and revs fine, idles fine but when i come to a stop from driving it really wants to stall and sometimes it does. hmmmi timed it with the TPS unplugged and the car at op. temp. on the 3rd mark if you looking down its from the left(clockwise) which i believe it 15* BTDChelp me please im almost 100%Edit:i think the stumble problem is from these crap bosch platnum plugs(all the local auto parts store had). i know i know platnum plugs are no good for turbo motors. i got copper NGKs today so im gonna try them, i'll write back after i instll them and run the car.
Modified by yourmomsrps13 at 11:07 AM 11/2/2005

[yourmomsrps13]

ok it wasnt the plugs but im sure it didnt help.......

my #1 cylinder isnt fireing, i pulled the coil pack off and nothing changed, (still sounded like a wrx) how can i check to see if my coil is bad?anyone have one for sale if its bad?can i use a 88 pulsar ca18de coil pack?

thanks

[float_6969]

Check the ignitor first.

[yourmomsrps13]

how do i do that?

[datsunboy]

firstly, it's the 4th mark that is 15 BTDC....not the 3rd.1st = 5 ATDC2nd = 0 BTDC3rd = 10 BTDC4th = 15 BTDC

and if you want to check a coil pack....easiest way, would be to just swap No 1 and 2 coil packs around....and see if the problem moves with the coil pack, or if it is always No 1 cyl that isn't fireing.

and yeah, you can also use RB20 coil packs too.thats what I'm using in mine atm.....just gotta change the plugs on the end for the 3 little wires.

[yourmomsrps13]

OK so im stumpedI replaced my ignitor, my coil, timed it correctly,and changed to copper NGK plugs. and its still sounds like a boxer motor(wrx). i cant get the idle above 700 rpms and it stalls when i come to a stop. accelerates slow till around 3000-3500rpms and shoots 2 foot flames(mostly on deccel and shifts). I checked my codes and im throwing a 13 = coolant temp sensor, im running my original SOHC CTS.

[nismoplsr]

OK so im stumpedI replaced my ignitor, my coil, timed it correctly,and changed to copper NGK plugs. and its still sounds like a boxer motor(wrx). i cant get the idle above 700 rpms and it stalls when i come to a stop. accelerates slow till around 3000-3500rpms and shoots 2 foot flames(mostly on deccel and shifts). I checked my codes and im throwing a 13 = coolant temp sensor, im running my original SOHC CTS.

The coolent temp code will cause it to stumble i believe. I am not on stock ecu anymore so im not posative.

But if you are sure it is only that one cylinder that is not firing. and you replaced all of those things. It still could be a problem with the fuel on that cylinder. First check the wiring to that injector. Then inspect the injector.

[float_6969]

replace that coolant temperature sensor. It can cause all sorts of weird problems. Also check the wiring for it. You probabaly need to check that first.

[biosehnsucht]

check the coils, sounds like when I had a dead coil or two.. and before you ask, RTFSM it tells you how to check them

[sam_bo3]

The coolant temp sensor is used like a choke.When it reads that it is cool it runs rich so it starts and runs easier till it gets some heat in it. I know a guy that took it out of its hole and zip tied it to the breather pipe to get their 300Z to richen up. (This was on a 300hp Non-turbo).

[yourmomsrps13]

I replaced the CTS and also found my injector connector was corroded, cleaned it and now im running much much better.BUTIm still running really rich , and i have a stumble misfire at 3,000- 3,300. stalls when i come to a stop and also my ECU gets hot
Modified by yourmomsrps13 at 1:54 PM 11/5/2005

[yourmomsrps13]

firstly, it's the 4th mark that is 15 BTDC....not the 3rd.1st = 5 ATDC2nd = 0 BTDC3rd = 10 BTDC4th = 15 BTDC

i was just looking over the FSM and they show 15*BTDC is the 5th mark,check it out