got my oil pump off lastnight and pulled the short straw on oil collar issue

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
silviasgp06
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well ive been prepping my S2 motor for the drop in the past couple of week now while ive been waiting on parts. Went to take off the oil pump last night( to be replaced by an N1 pump) and unfortunately the motor has the small contact surface problem.

i dont really have time to take the motor to a shop now but i also dont plan on doing anything besides raise boost(10-12ish) and a little fuel tunning til next summer. Far as i know everything should be fine. Just little disappointed that i have to take care of this dumb problem in the near future. on both notches there seems to be 3.5mm-4mm of oil pump contact on the snout.__

on another note. the factory motor came with a paper oil pump gasket, i cant really find one by it self with out buying the whole gasket kit,Ive just used RTV on nissan oil pumps in the past would it be alright to just use rtv sealant on a rb or better cut my own gasket. Has anyone found a site that sells the paper oil pump gasket by itself? What have yall done/experienced in the past?


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mello88
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if you're tearing apart the engine you should just get the gasket kit... Or maybe someone has an unused one from their kit. There's a company on ebay from LA that sells little bits out of the gasket kits, email them I bet they have one for you. Sry I forgot their name.


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Shocker
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buy the gasket kit if your talking all that **** off.

Also DO NOT use the n1 pump, use the stock one. The n1 pump is made for the larger drive.

That does suck, I'm thinking that Nissan didn't really fix this problem on almost all of the rb25's since even people with Neo's are seeing this issue....

How much wear is on your collar?

l0nestar
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Shocker wrote:buy the gasket kit if your talking all that **** off.Also DO NOT use the n1 pump, use the stock one. The n1 pump is made for the larger drive.
Sorry man, but I gotta disagree with you on that :-\ The N1 is for higher oil pressure (but more than 'just a spring'. My N1 works fine with my R33 S1 25, but I also bought it knowing full well that I would be adding an external oil cooler.

Also, for gaskets, I used Permatex black hi-temperature. You might be able to get a paper gasket from Shae @ Nismoparts.com -- he buys gasket kits and breaks them down.. I got a 25 intake gasket for $20 shipped.

l0nestar
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I feel ya man. I replaced the water pump (OEM), oil pump (N1), timing belt (Trust), idler / tensioner (OEM), main bearings(King), con-rod bearings (King), t-stat (Nismo), and had my crank collared when the engine was on the stand.

I would say that I got a 'deal' on the collaring. The shop made a collar with a grub-screw and welded it then micro-polished it for $100 cash.

That was all just to let you know that you are not alone

Some people have not 'fixed' their collars and been 'fine'. I figured that I would 'fix it right the first time' instead of always wondering / waiting for it to fail and ruin a several thousand dollar engine, to save $100 on a collar..

I do kindof wonder about the collaring issue since there are quite a few Skylines on the roads, but nobody really hears about this issue..

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bumblebtuna
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silviasgp06 wrote:well ive been prepping my S2 motor for the drop in the past couple of week now while ive been waiting on parts. Went to take off the oil pump last night( to be replaced by an N1 pump) and unfortunately the motor has the small contact surface problem.
sounds like me a few months ago. lol
silviasgp06 wrote:i dont really have time to take the motor to a shop now but i also dont plan on doing anything besides raise boost(10-12ish) and a little fuel tunning til next summer. Far as i know everything should be fine. Just little disappointed that i have to take care of this dumb problem in the near future. on both notches there seems to be 3.5mm-4mm of oil pump contact on the snout.


if you're not throwing alot of revs on the oil pump you should be fine, it's really not as bad as people make it out to be, but does exist at high revs..oil pump/crank snout starts to slip(wears out quicker, lol)..no bueno.
silviasgp06 wrote:on another note. the factory motor came with a paper oil pump gasket, i cant really find one by it self with out buying the whole gasket kit,Ive just used RTV on nissan oil pumps in the past would it be alright to just use rtv sealant on a rb or better cut my own gasket. Has anyone found a site that sells the paper oil pump gasket by itself? What have yall done/experienced in the past?
ericsperformanceparts on ebay...ftw..../endthread.think i paid 5 bucks for my pump gasket.
Modified by bumblebtuna at 12:12 PM 2/1/2008

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Shocker
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l0nestar wrote:
Sorry man, but I gotta disagree with you on that :-\ The N1 is for higher oil pressure (but more than 'just a spring'. My N1 works fine with my R33 S1 25, but I also bought it knowing full well that I would be adding an external oil cooler.

Also, for gaskets, I used Permatex black hi-temperature. You might be able to get a paper gasket from Shae @ Nismoparts.com -- he buys gasket kits and breaks them down.. I got a 25 intake gasket for $20 shipped.
Read this thread, its suggested....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.c...ollar

I don't see the reason to replace the oil pump if the larger drive isn't fitted. Hes just going to end up wearing the groves for the n1 pump down, as long as the stock RB pump is in good shape, I don't see a need to replace it.

Also Bumblebee, its not that the pump starts to slip at high RPM, the wear rate is increased of the collar/drive, especially with an increase of HP, and over time it just eventually fails and causes some nice damage....

silviasgp06
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called shae, he shipping the gasket today

lonestar:you said you had it collared on the engine stand? I though you had to take the crank out and get them to do all that, including balancing?

l0nestar
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silviasgp06 wrote:you said you had it collared on the engine stand? I though you had to take the crank out and get them to do all that, including balancing?
Let me clarify that. The engine was on the stand, and WHILE it was there, I removed the crank to have it collared. Sorry for the confusion.

l0nestar
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Shocker wrote:I don't see the reason to replace the oil pump if the larger drive isn't fitted. Hes just going to end up wearing the groves for the n1 pump down, as long as the stock RB pump is in good shape, I don't see a need to replace it.
Shocker,I would agree. Don't replace the pump without fixing the collar. True about keeping the stocker, but I just replaced everything while I was there. :-\ I'll read that link when I get home tonight.

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cdorhout
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I also have a S2 RB25 and recently found a short oil drive.My crank collar is coming from Nengun as we speak.

gawdzilla
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if you don't fix the crank, put a new oem pump on it so the drive on the oil pump has a fresh surface at least.

240z4u
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IMO seems like if you have an RB you had better budget to fix this problem. Almost every motor has it.

We all pulled the "short straw" LOL

Evan

silviasgp06
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well see the main reason i have to put this off is i dont want to just fix the collar when i pull the crank, i want to change all the bearings at the same time which jumps the budget up another $500ish.

From everything ive read the issue is something that could happen, the only failures that ive seen evidence on were on RBs with a huge amount of power over stock. and were reving past 7000rpms constantly.

i know its a risk, but the failure rate is way down if not not existent on a stock motor.

this will be something i put off until I build it to support a Holset. At that time ill get a new head gasket, bearings, and get the Collar fixed along with other things. im not being cheap im just being practical for what im doing with the motor.

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Shocker
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If that was the case, I wouldn't have even touched the oil pump, just left it on and found out later when I built it wtf it was.

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Chaos the Xile
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silviasgp06 wrote:i also dont plan on doing anything besides raise boost(10-12ish) and a little fuel tunning til next summer.
If this is all you plan on doing if you don't mind me asking why waste the money on a N1 oil pump?

silviasgp06
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I got the N1 pump for $190 brand new, Less than $50 more the an oem pump, with higher and better flow, ide hardly consider it a waste.

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Shocker
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silviasgp06 wrote:I got the N1 pump for $190 brand new, Less than $50 more the an oem pump, with higher and better flow, ide hardly consider it a waste.
It doesn't flow more, it just has a higher pressure relief over the stock pump.

If you want more flow your going to have to buy a different pump. (jun, tomei)

Did you even read the link above I posted regarding this information?

jdmser
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Sounds like I'm the one guy to have his fail on a stock motor. I noticed the oil pressure racheting down as I got in it about 5k after finishing the swap. I had been reving it up to around 7k but, mines a 20. I deffinitely agree that the collar should be done on any of the RBs before installation. Just easier that way.

silviasgp06
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oh sorry ment higher presure better flow, cause its not saposed to cavitate as easily as the oem pump. i just typed it all wrong while i was in a rush to go to work.

but yeah i might get it taken care of before the car gets running i gotta call around to see what the local prices are

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Carl H
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N1 waterpump is designed for anticavication...not the oil pump
silviasgp06 wrote:oh sorry ment higher presure better flow, cause its not saposed to cavitate as easily as the oem pump. i just typed it all wrong while i was in a rush to go to work.

but yeah i might get it taken care of before the car gets running i gotta call around to see what the local prices are

silviasgp06
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yeah i know the benefits of the N1 water, but someone did a test on oil pump cavitation a while back, bubbles were causing oil pressure fluctuation,

but aside from all that, i found a few local shops here in DFW that have dealt with a number of RBs and will be getting this monkey off my back.

anyone know of somewhere that stocks the collars Here in the US?

was referred to RB Motoring in Cali so thats one place ill be calling this week.

if all else fails, ill get it from nengun of RHDjapan.

thanks for everyone riding me on the issue, i thought about it all day at work today and realized i really didn't want to worry about it.

Just my only issue i guess was that my Start up warranty on the motor runs out middle of this month, but its not that big of a deal

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Chaos the Xile
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I'd th Nengun or RHD, simply because I have never had anything but great product at great prices and they don't take ages to get to you... well somethings do when you order from nengun.

240z4u
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silviasgp06 wrote:yeah i know the benefits of the N1 water, but someone did a test on oil pump cavitation a while back, bubbles were causing oil pressure fluctuation,

but aside from all that, i found a few local shops here in DFW that have dealt with a number of RBs and will be getting this monkey off my back.

anyone know of somewhere that stocks the collars Here in the US?

was referred to RB Motoring in Cali so thats one place ill be calling this week.

if all else fails, ill get it from nengun of RHDjapan.

thanks for everyone riding me on the issue, i thought about it all day at work today and realized i really didn't want to worry about it.

Just my only issue i guess was that my Start up warranty on the motor runs out middle of this month, but its not that big of a deal
You will thank yourself in the end, its HUGE piece of mind!


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