Got a problem

[Sleeper s13]

I was told at hibdon tires that the ft/lb torque requirement for my strut should be at 100. so i got a torque wrent and a breaker bar to remove the strut bolts so i could mount my tower brace. got it of and then when i went to tighten them the bolts broke before me wrench reach a 100lb click. please someone tell me the torque specs for a 92 240sx strut bolt asap.:help

[Repo Man]

I was told at hibdon tires that the ft/lb torque requirement for my strut should be at 100. so i got a torque wrent and a breaker bar to remove the strut bolts so i could mount my tower brace. got it of and then when i went to tighten them the bolts broke before me wrench reach a 100lb click. please someone tell me the torque specs for a 92 240sx strut bolt asap.:help

You're talking about the strut to body bolt, right? That should be between 29-40 ft. lbs, not 100 ft. lbs Are you sure they weren't talking about the strut to knuckle bolts? That torque spec is 114-133 ft. lbs.

Obviously these are two entirely different issues. I am also going to move your thread into the mechanic forum. Good luck!

Andy

[Sleeper s13]

Thanks, i just looked in my chilton and it said the same but now the question is how to replace them? i know with broken nuts the struts are foobared! I looked in the wheel wells and they arent just bolts. they are attached to the struts which leaves me screwed. my next idea is too replace them with better ones like adjustables but i have never pulled the struts on a car. just shocks on a truck. do i need a spring compressor? and when the book says mark the position of the strut to the nuckle is this for the sake of alighnment?

[NISTECH]

you can just replace the mount plate on the top of the strut. yes you will need a spring compressor to replace the plate.the marks are to keep all in line for reinstalition. the three studs on the mount plate they are not a perfect triangle. so alignment is important for ease of installation. now as far as torq specs go i dont memorize that kinda stuff nor do i have manuals at home but can retrive them from the fsm at work if you need them.

[Sleeper s13]

My struts were replaced in 01'. They are probably not the factory mcphersons. would any autoparts stores have a top plate that would fit any front struts that go on an s13?

[NISTECH]

when you had struts put in most likely the top plates and springs where not changed. but if you got modified springs the top plate may differ from the factory plate.

[Sleeper s13]

The struts were replaced but on the reciept there is no record of modification to the spring so it is safe to assume that they are the stock from the original MacPherson's. Do the Nuts come with the top plate? or if i get the top plate will i have to get the nuts from a nissan dealership?also i just want to say that i appreciate your help very much.

[NISTECH]

the nuts will have to be purchased seperatly. do not remove the middle nut when doing this cause that is what keeps the spring in place. do not remove the nut till you have the spring compressor firmly in place. then you can lift the mount plate off and place the new one on.

[Sleeper s13]

I will keep that in mind but i will half to play it by ear since i have never messed with the suspension before.Thanx again:D

[NISTECH]

becarful with the springs when their compressed they is very dangerous if they let loose out of the holder

[U12 2NR]

why don't you at least look up a few webpages of people who've written tutorials for changing struts? You can't go into such a big and dangerous job blindly.

By the way, you said the boltS broke. More than one? Why would you continue torqueing the rest of them so high after one borke?

[Sleeper s13]

It was a bolt that broke. the others just striped and continued turning without any upward or downward movement. I have read some post on strut removal and some say that you dont need a compressor if you are removing the strut and the spring as one peice and dont try to separate the two.

[BadMojo]

You'll need a coil spring compressor. Stores like Autozone sometimes rent them. It's not really the kind of tool that you'd normally buy (unless you're going to be messin' with your suspension alot).

You'll need the three nuts that attach the strut mount to the strut tower...they're very cheap. I just ordered a bunch of them from nissanwholesaleparts.com along with some other stuff and they're very cheap. You could get them from your local dealer too. You should always replace those nuts and the ones that attach the strut to the knuckle anytime you remove them. I'm not sure if the strut piston nut needs to be replaced...I don't have my FSM handy, but I'll check later.

I also ordered a pair of KYB strut mounts, which at approx. $60 a piece are cheaper than the OE ones. They are direct OE replacements, so I don't see why you'd have a problem using them with your OE replacement shocks. Maybe NISTECH could better answer that question.

[Sleeper s13]

I have already ordered a set of oem replacements but even if i had known about replacements that could take performance struts i wouldnt have been able to get them because i need replacements asap so i can get back on the road and back and forth to work. ive got a machpherson strut compressor rented from auto zone. i will probably get started tonight. i am still a little hazy on how to mark the position of the strut mounting bolts on the steering nuckle because from their looks they can only go in one position, the bolt holes. please clarify

[DAEDALUS]

This was written for a different car, but similar:http://www.ozop.net/rearsusp.htm

You need to mark the spring cap relative to the spring *only if* you disassemble the shock, so that when you assemble them they go back on the car.