Good performance mods and exhaust choices?

[Recian]

With tax season approaching I plan to do a little work to the Z. It's NA but I'd like to get the most out of it for now. I've already got a JWT pop off filter. Not sure if a CAI is really worth spending $150 on some chrome pipes from filter to t-body's.
I'm planning to change out the driveshaft for an aluminum 1 piece. To do so I know my current exhaust is going to get destroyed due to rust so I've already factored in a new exhaust. I'm looking for a 2-2.5" and I"m a bit picky. I'm having a bit of trouble finding test pipes but I may not be looking in the right spot.I want something that will look good (not hanging uneven left to right when mounted) and one that's pretty quiet but still flows good.
My 06 sentra SE-R has a Nismo header to cat back pretty much straight pipe and it sounds great. I'd like something in that ball park, nice tone, not very noticeable at idle and under $500. I was reading up here about a JWT exhaust that's no longer being made that is supposed to be quiet.
If you guys have any other ideas where I should start I'd appreciate input. I'm sticking with a $1000 budget. The car is 83k original miles, T-belt and upper end engine gaskets have been done, everything works great. body and interior are mint so I'd rather do it all right than try to pinch pennies.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Hard intake piping and drive shaft are not performance increases. Exhaust isn't really going to change NA performance that much, just the sound. Your biggest bang for your buck is going to be getting an Unorthodox Racing under-drive pulley, which CZP claims will add 16-18HP, here's the kit: http://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/des ... 164.62.240 . There are other options, etc available as well.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Check out this thread: destroying-the-world-in-your-z32-tuning ... 94781.html

[Recian]

I've considered pulleys and even a new clutch with lightweight flywheel since the rear main needs to be done anyway. That was same concept for the idea of the driveshaft. Lighter rotating mass allows car to rev faster feeling faster. Plus removing the carrier bearing and extra set of U-joints I would assume would make the drivetrain feel tighter and more responsive which is what this car lacks.
That was good info. I remember reading it when I started here in this site but it gives alot for turbo cars even tho basic concepts are the same.

[zcar93na]

I don't have many mods done to my car and I can tell a complete difference than before. As it sits; pop charger, z1 hardpipes, deleted egr, z1 tuned ecu, aluminum UD pulleys, stillen headers, gutted catalytic converters, and a catback exhaust. It's not too loud until you get above 5k rpms. Mine is plenty quick enough for me, it's a dead match to my buddy's Dodge 1500 Cummins TD swap truck. It's pretty funny to see guys' faces when their 4.6 and 5.0 mustangs get matched or beat by a 3.0 V6

[Recian]

This ECU here? Seems cheap.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ducts_id=5

Also their options dont list for EGR delete. I assume having the ecm tuned for not having egr may help.
Headers seem to be a good solid option. Theyre not too expensive. How hard are headers in these cars? Looks tight and I know the VG30/33 DE were bad for breaking exhaust studs in the head.

Are these emissions deletes worth it? Seems the EGR delete will be a pain and my car spent some time in Ohio so the exhaust end of the EGR isnt in the best shape. We had to have the exhaust between converter and header re-done. (idk what these pipes that stick off are for. maybe extra egr stuff?) but there's no nut left on those so they had to have the bungs cut off the old pipes and welded on the new pipes put in.

[zcar93na]

Yes, that ecu upgrade. It was already done when I bought the car, so I didn't have to spend the extra money on it.

I live in northern Georgia, and we don't have to go through emissions. I deleted the EGR because I don't like my intake manifold to look like my exhaust manifold. And my catalytic converters were on the verge of being stopped up. Deleting the egr wasn't really a performance mod, it was peace of mind for me. Those tubes you are talking about are AIV (Air Injection Valves).

Headers would be a job to install with the engine in the car, I wish I could still find the how-to.

[z32loverboy]

I wouldn't suggest trying to install headers with the motor still installed. I haven't run into breaking studs off in the head just at the bottom of the manifold. PB blaster does wonders on rusty bolts. The tuned ECU will give you a much better feel from the car. It comes factory with a safe tune, which doesn't use all of the available horsepower out of the motor to give it better gas mileage, better emissions and to prevent any damage under HOPEFULLY any circumstances (IE my motor ran and drove with four blown injectors, just not well). With a N/A motor the best you can do is make it breathe better (unrestricted intake and exhaust), reduce rotating mass weight, UD pulleys, driveshaft and flywheel, interior weight, suspension and a tune. To get more reliable power honestly it needs new valves and pistons (to withstand added heat) and some kind of forced induction system to push more air in. Something like NO2, turbos or supercharger.

Sticking to your $1000 budget I would get the ECU tune, exhaust and replace all of the suspension bushings. Of course the main thing is to use name brand RELIABLE parts and keep up with maintenance. Hope that helps some

[Recian]

any recommendations on exhaust? I want something somewhat quiet and not obnoxiously raspy.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

The TL;DR on the driveshaft is that because it isn't very wide, you don't get a lot of gains from the reduced spinning mass: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... lated.html

[Recian]

interesting article. I think I'm going to pass on a driveshaft for now. I figured it would give the car a bit more responsiveness eliminating the center bearing which likes to go bad and extra u-joints and stiffen the drivetrain. I think the ECU will give me more bang for my buck tho at $200

[z32loverboy]

On the exhaust I would go with a labree or borla system. I've always liked the HKS HI-Power though.

[Afi]

On the exhaust I would go with a labree or borla system. I've always liked the HKS HI-Power though.

No more melon launchers on Z please
OP, as for your exhaust being eaten by rust (that makes two of us), does your 1000$ budget include the exhaust also? I'm asking because a top of line cat-back such as Labree or Specialty Z will cost you around 1k. Personally, I'm going with Specialty Z this upcoming spring.
http://specialtyz.com/shop/default/sz-catbacks-z32.html
post6440854.html#p6440854

[z32loverboy]

On the exhaust I would go with a labree or borla system. I've always liked the HKS HI-Power though.

No more melon launchers on Z please

Don't like the split leg cans? but it makes all the women come running!

[Recian]

That was the intention but that exhaust is what I"m looking for however it seems it doesnt include the other 2 in 2 out muffler behind the cats.

[DCaff300ZX]

For my NA years ago I had a shop make me a basically stock header-back setup (resonators, hi-flow cats, Flowmaster knockoff mufflers) with 2 1/2" aluminized piping for around that $1K figure, and I felt it gave the NA a little more breathing but still had the torque that usually goes away in the NA when guys open up the exhaust. Still $1K, but you get more than just the cat-back which is better if you also need new cats as I did.
I started out without the resonators and with very unrestrictive mufflers, but ended up adding the resonators and Flowmaster style mufflers which made the car run right and not sound like a dying Honda.
I'll also say that after following Chris/Z-Owned in his NA with my TT, that his NA is faster than my NA ever was and any other I've been around, and sounds a lot more like you young guys like exhaust to sound. Check out his build thread for his specific specs...can't remember his exhaust offhand, sorry.