Going wireless...

Post by **krimsonviper** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:08 pm

At my parents house. They have DSL, with a crappy DSL modem. 3 questions:1. Can I buy a wireless router to substitute the modem? Complete noobert with networking.

2. The wireless is mainly for my Xbox360, the router itself is going to be next to the desktop PC, the house is over 1,000sq. ft. single floor. What's a good rating for the house? G or N? The 360 and router are going to be on opposite ends of the house. I play mainly FPS'.

3. Preferred brand? Belkin looks reliable because it looks professional looking, lol. I've had some experience with Linksys, and had some trouble with it(360 kept having DNS messages), so I don't want Linksys. Other brands I've seen is D-Link and Netgear.

Post by **Warped161** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:23 pm

i have a Dlink Xtreme N DUO GIGABIT Router. the range covers my whole yard. Your router cannot substitute your modem. if your having issues with it there should be a diff model available from the dsl company.

Post by **Beancooker** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:26 pm

Routers don't take the place of a modem. They transmit the signal from the modem to more than one PC.

If the modem is a POS, it won't be any better with a router, it will actually be a little worse.

Belkin sucks the taint.

Lynksys or D-Link are the better ones.

I run a D-Link Extreme gigabit blah blah blah router. It runs on wireless N which is nice when moving files from PC to PC via the network. It's faster than broadband.

Fire the DSL, and get cable. It's totally worth the extra $$$.

Post by **krimsonviper** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:30 pm

My whole block has cable and 2 more of my friends on the other block, stealing my bandwidth. Doesn't that effect it?

Post by **Dittoz7** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:33 pm

WEP Password.

Post by **Warped161** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:34 pm

krimsonviper wrote:My whole block has cable and 2 more of my friends on the other block, stealing my bandwidth. Doesn't that effect it?

actually dsl is affected more by the number of connections than cable. What can affect your cable speed is your distance to the local node, which usually each block has it's own.

Post by **krimsonviper** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:41 pm

Well in that case, I'm gonna look into cable, but I doubt I'm gonna get it. I'm on a budget, and my parents got some sort of package deal.

What's the deal about G and N? That's distance right?

Post by **Razi** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:44 pm

Dittoz7 wrote:WEP Password.

WEP is easy to crack, try WPA.

As for G and N, most devices are compatible to the G band, N band is faster and the range is longer I think, but not all devices are compatible with N yet.

Post by **Dattebayo** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:51 pm

krimsonviper wrote:What's the deal about G and N? That's distance right?

If your talking about wireless, then I think they mean the band on which it transmits.

I do this stuff for a living, but I could be wrong.

Post by **Razi** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:54 pm

Datte is right, it's the band that WiFi devices use.N is better but it's new iirc, so some devices might not work with the N band.

Post by **krimsonviper** » Mon May 18, 2009 5:58 pm

Razi wrote:WEP is easy to crack, try WPA.

As for G and N, most devices are compatible to the G band, N band is faster and the range is longer I think, but not all devices are compatible with N yet.

How would I find out if an item is compatible with a certain network?

Post by **Razi** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:00 pm

Maybe Google or on the back of their box.If it uses the N band, the company will probably proudly display that on their box.If not, it probably runs on the other WiFi bands.

My laptop can run on N, but our other laptops can't so we run on G. LOLI can access my WiFi from out in the streets, I can see the networks of my neighbor's networks too.I would go with G, the range in that band seems great to me.Just get a good router.

Post by **Warped161** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:14 pm

Most if not all n type routers also transmit in g and b as well.

Post by **Razi** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:15 pm

All should.

Post by **krimsonviper** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:32 pm

So I just learned that the wireless adapter for the 360 doesn't support the N network. G it is then. Now I need to figure out which G-router.

Post by **RCA** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:43 pm

KV the newest routers will be compatible with G, because they broadcast to all not JUST G.

So for instance, my brothers Xbox uses G and my PC card uses N. Both get signal from the same box.So basically don't go looking for a specific G router when it isn't necessary.

And once you have your wireless router set up. Plug an Ethernet cable to the back of your PC and type in your "Default Gateway" IP address into Internet Explorer and you will be able to mess with all your router's settings. This way you can put a password on it so people can't steal your interwebs

Post by **krimsonviper** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:49 pm

Thanks fellas.

Post by **krimsonviper** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:52 pm

When it says "dual band," what does that mean?

Post by **Razi** » Mon May 18, 2009 7:00 pm

Might mean it uses both N and G bands, dunno.

Post by **MinisterofDOOM** » Tue May 19, 2009 5:01 am

I'm using a linksys WRT54GS wireless router with my 360 just fine. The problem is this is the 2nd or 3rd router I've used with my 360. The damn things just spontaneously die every couple of years. Which means you're out $50.

krimsonviper wrote:How would I find out if an item is compatible with a certain network?

The official (and insanely overpriced) MS wireless adaptor for the 360 does NOT support N. It supports G, though, which is plenty fast for what you'll be doing. Get a B/G or G/N router and you'll be good.

Post by **szh** » Tue May 19, 2009 6:42 am

krimsonviper wrote:When it says "dual band," what does that mean?

Dual-band does not mean G and N. It means that it can transmit at both of the unlicensed 2.4Ghz and 5.0Ghz bands. However, be careful about whether that is "simultaneous" or not - some of the early generation products could only do one or the other at one time. Don't pay extra for a non-simultaneous dual-band wireless router.

Every N wireless device (router or card) should be able to fall back to G (or even to B) protocols and speeds easily - depending on the remote device and distance.

N gives you lots more range than G or B. Although many of the G implementations are good for long distances too, as long as both ends (wireless router and card) use the same manufacturer "enhancements".

I would recommend trying to get the same brand router as your card manufacturer. Sometimes, this avoids interoperation problems (particularly with older cards/equipment) and sometimes it gets you extra benefits of proprietary speeds. For example, my son's computer has a Dlink N card in it and the wireless router is a Dlink 655 wireless router. The communication between the two is at 300Mbits/sec using a proprietary protocol! All the other stuff in the house works at more normal speeds (son's iPod uses G and wife's Macbook Pro use N).

Note that the limitation of the overall speed will be the DSL access speed to the Internet. So, if all you do is surf the Net and you are close enough to the wireless router, even a B router would be more-or-less sufficient (albeit with distance limitations). However, if your computers are ever going to access disks or printers inside your residence, or you end up getting a faster DSL or cable Internet modem service, then going for N (at least do G) is well worth it.

FWIW, in this day and age, almost all the G and N wireless routers are low-enough in cost that doing an old B-only router is simply not a good thing.

Hope this helps,

Z

Post by **krimsonviper** » Wed May 20, 2009 3:51 pm

rcabrita wrote:KV the newest routers will be compatible with G, because they broadcast to all not JUST G.

So for instance, my brothers Xbox uses G and my PC card uses N. Both get signal from the same box.So basically don't go looking for a specific G router when it isn't necessary.

And once you have your wireless router set up. Plug an Ethernet cable to the back of your PC and type in your "Default Gateway" IP address into Internet Explorer and you will be able to mess with all your router's settings. This way you can put a password on it so people can't steal your interwebs

What router are you using? I'm gonna look into it.

MinisterofDOOM wrote:I'm using a linksys WRT54GS wireless router with my 360 just fine. The problem is this is the 2nd or 3rd router I've used with my 360. The damn things just spontaneously die every couple of years. Which means you're out $50.

Fortunately G band doesn't reach my room. So, I'm going to have to look into a router that gives me N distance, with G band. =/

MinisterofDOOM wrote:The official (and insanely overpriced) MS wireless adaptor for the 360

You had me at "hello"

szhosain wrote:
Dual-band does not mean G and N. It means that it can transmit at both of the unlicensed 2.4Ghz and 5.0Ghz bands. However, be careful about whether that is "simultaneous" or not - some of the early generation products could only do one or the other at one time. Don't pay extra for a non-simultaneous dual-band wireless router.

Every N wireless device (router or card) should be able to fall back to G (or even to B) protocols and speeds easily - depending on the remote device and distance.

N gives you lots more range than G or B. Although many of the G implementations are good for long distances too, as long as both ends (wireless router and card) use the same manufacturer "enhancements".

I would recommend trying to get the same brand router as your card manufacturer. Sometimes, this avoids interoperation problems (particularly with older cards/equipment) and sometimes it gets you extra benefits of proprietary speeds. For example, my son's computer has a Dlink N card in it and the wireless router is a Dlink 655 wireless router. The communication between the two is at 300Mbits/sec using a proprietary protocol! All the other stuff in the house works at more normal speeds (son's iPod uses G and wife's Macbook Pro use N).

Note that the limitation of the overall speed will be the DSL access speed to the Internet. So, if all you do is surf the Net and you are close enough to the wireless router, even a B router would be more-or-less sufficient (albeit with distance limitations). However, if your computers are ever going to access disks or printers inside your residence, or you end up getting a faster DSL or cable Internet modem service, then going for N (at least do G) is well worth it.

FWIW, in this day and age, almost all the G and N wireless routers are low-enough in cost that doing an old B-only router is simply not a good thing.

Hope this helps,

Z

Indeed, it does.

Post by **RCA** » Wed May 20, 2009 6:05 pm

krimsonviper wrote:What router are you using? I'm gonna look into it.

D-Link WBR-2310

I have no online gaming issues or wireless gaming issues.Also in it's settings it has a "Gaming Mode" button...

I pressed it

NINJA EDIT: Just read your necessisty for range..My D-Link has a "Range Boost" button.

I pressed that as well.

Post by **C-Kwik** » Thu May 21, 2009 12:56 pm

krimsonviper wrote:Fortunately G band doesn't reach my room. So, I'm going to have to look into a router that gives me N distance, with G band. =/

If you're trying to connect a gaming adapter to the router, then getting an "N" router won't be of much good unless you have an adapter that can communicate over an "N" signal. Essentially a "G" gaming adapter won't be able to use the greater distances that the "N" router is capable of. I'd say just get a 3rd party "N" gaming adapter. Personally, I'd use a 3rd party gaming adapter anyways as it can be connected to any device that uses a LAN cable and tends to cost less anyways (at least for the G models). If you already have a game adapter, perhaps an extender is all you need.

Post by **krimsonviper** » Thu May 21, 2009 2:43 pm

C-Kwik wrote:extender

Que pasa whey?

Post by **C-Kwik** » Thu May 21, 2009 3:31 pm

example:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ol...26745

It basically just repeates signals through the network, effectively boosting the range. Could be a cheaper option than replacing all hardware on either end if you already have it all...

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