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Nismochick240
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okay so i plan on going turbo soon like in the next 3 months-- i have a ka24de (91)... any suggestions on type of manifold/bov/intercooler/oil lines... the whole 9 yards... here's what i'm thinking so far

SS Autochrome equal length tubular manifoldT4 turbo HKS SSQ BOVJWT ECU300z MAF3in intercooler pipingBUT WHAT ABOUT OIL LINES and relocating the battery... did yall have to relocate the battery?? what problems did yall run in to i should be aware of?? ANY info would help!!! thanks a lot!!Alisha


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Nismochick240
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TheDecline
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If you are going to run 3" IC piping you are most likely going to have to do a battery relocation. Depending on what piping you get, or the route you take, you could get away with a motorcycle battery or something but generally piping that big needs to go right through the battery tray.

Oil lines aren't really a big deal. Just get a Y fitting to tap into your oil pressure sensor location and run a braided line from their to the turbo and then a large line with a tap into the oil pan for the gravity return.

Also, for the setup you have showed, you are going to need bigger injectors for sure. Obviously that will be easily matched with the JWT tune you decide on.

I would think about what exactly the purpose of the vehicle will be when you are done with it. Thats a fair sized turbo you are planning on and you will lose some drivability if you plan on doing any sort of racing/drifting due to lag.

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Nismochick240
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i like drifting a lot but most of my racing will be drag.. lol... yea i think the t4 is good size turbo-- not a lot of lag... injectors-->> whats the best you think?? sr injectors maybe??

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fiznat
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Oil kits are sold at a lot of turbo shops (JGS tools comes to mind), or you can piece your own together by following the DIY that is linked in the stickey on top of this forum.

Battery relocation kits are also very common. For less than $100 you can get a kit pretty much anywhere on the net.

1WheelWonder
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For injectors I would check out Deatschwerks(Nico sponsor), that's where I got my 550cc's from. There prices cannot be beat. My battery location kit came from Summit, came with everything and cost me like 50 bucks.

Kenrik
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Why pay $600 for a JWT ecu when you can flash it yourself for under $200.... ? Also you will need a SAFC II upgraded injectors, fuel pump, and dyno time

Hey i'm not a Perv... I actually happen to be a very nice guy.

Why are there no atractive women who are into cars around me? I guess I will just have to stick with the dumb beautiful women you find here in SoFL

240sxjeff
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Isnt the SAFC II not needed if you get the JWT ecu? But I agree, you definately need some injectors and a fuel pump upgrade

And like 1WheelWonder said Summit has a very cheap battery relocation kit but their battery box is just so damn big it takes up alot of space. What I'm planning on doing is getting an Optima battery and making a clamp kit to bolt onto the floor. Then going to an audio shop and getting 2gauge wire for the power and ground cables

Kenrik
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No you still need a SAFC II for tuning the A/F ratio if you get the JWT ECU.. I think you're thinking of something like the AEM Engine managment system.. The JWT is just a flashed ECU

240sxjeff
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Oh I see now. Damn so that ecu cost $600 AND you have to buy the SAFC to tune it? Thats nuts. So then what would be the purpose of the JWT?

I was thinking of getting my little brother a reflash this Xmas but F* that if it cost that much

1WheelWonder
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Using a tuned ecu would be the best thing to due IMO. Enthalpy is considerable less conservative with their tunes then JWT and cost roughly the same. And if you decided to avoid that way by the time you add a fuel controller of sorts and something to control timing such as a msd btm you would have surpassed the cost of a tuned ecu. I am using the SafcII and wideband with a retarded base timing but now I wish I would have went a tuned ecu route.

Kenrik
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The JWT ecu makes it so you can use parts that were not on the car stock (300zx MAF etc..) it will run without a SAFC II and a tune... but you have to think of it this way when JWT tunes the ECU it's just a basic setup not 100% tuned for your car they just put the settings at a mid zone which does not push your car to it's full potential...

You can reflash the ECU yourself for MUCH less and it's basicly the same as what JWT does...

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what are your power goals that your looking for.. i think they will best answer your questions.. i m doing something similar with a few radical ideai can get sr injectors for pretty cheap, so let me know

and i would definitly get an oil pressure and boost gauge, but ive blown 3 motors w/out boost already so maybe im just paraniod?

And stay away from those dang zy turbos!

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3" intercooler piping is not recommended unless you are pushing 500BHP+. For under approx. 330whp, 2.25" will work just fine. People have done 400whp on 2" piping. Just to further show how unneccesary it is, your throttle body is 2.75".

What are the specs on the T4 turbo you are going with?

http://www.import-autoperformance.com has a good oil line kit. I bought mine from there.

http://www.rs-enthalpy.com ECU tune is the way to go IMO. Its plug&play and its safe. I bought an ECU tune because I don't have a laptop. Plus I'd rather just pay $300 more and not have to go to the dyno to tune or spend time tuning the car. I have an SAFC to do minor adjustments with. Can't beat plug and play. Also can't beat Scott's customer service.

Relocating the battery is a sinch. Look in http://www.summitracing.com for a battery relocation kit. Their kit sucks. I bought it and ended up welding a bracket that bolts into the back of my car to put the battery box on. Its pretty rigged, but track officials okay'd it. Its not something you should worry about. Got mine for $40.

240DRFT
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ss autochrome isnt the best choice for a manifold. what kind of numbers are u looking for? your stock maf is good to like 280 or around there, i forget. u can either have JWT tune u a ecu for what u are gonna run, or u can get a SAFC. but your definately gonna need more fuel stuff, check into getting a walbro fuel pump and maybe some 370cc sr20 injectors.

NateDogg
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Kenrik: why would you say you NEED an s-afc to tune JWT ECU?? THat's ridiculous. If the engine is in good running condition and everything is working properly a JWT ECU tune is perfectly adequate for safe operation. How can you be giving people advice when you bought 17x7 wheels with a +40 offset? Dont try to sound smart when all you're doing is making yourself look like an *** to people that actually know whats going on and actually have a turbo KA. People like you give NICO a bad name.

Good luck with your project, Alisha.

Kenrik
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NateDogg wrote:Kenrik: why would you say you NEED an s-afc to tune JWT ECU?? THat's ridiculous. If the engine is in good running condition and everything is working properly a JWT ECU tune is perfectly adequate for safe operation. How can you be giving people advice when you bought 17x7 wheels with a +40 offset? Dont try to sound smart when all you're doing is making yourself look like an *** to people that actually know whats going on and actually have a turbo KA. People like you give NICO a bad name.

Good luck with your project, Alisha.
No it's not... I said you can run a JWT without a SAFC II What the hell are you talking about? The JWT ECU is an off the shelf product not 100% customized for the specific engine! It automaticly corrects the settings for what it knows is on the car just the way a stock ECU would which is not always the most efficient..

I said to TUNE the A/F ratio you would need a S-AFC II There is a difference between tuning and letting the JWT ECU make it's own adjustments using the stock o2 sensor you have in your car.

as far as my wheels and the offset.. I like the stock offset which is 40mm and I knew what I was buying and how they would look when I got them if you don't like my taste fine but don't try to make me look like an idiot for buying them!

SR_Smith on Offset: The higher the offset, the more tucked in the rim will look, given constant width.Cool people like Chmercer say use +O offset!Not everybody wants the perfectly flush fit or the mexican hot rod look either.I like my stock wheels tucked in so I can still have suspension travel because I drive my car sometimes!

I DO know what i'm talking about so before you make yourself look like more of an *** why don't you go play with your friends at FA

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Tulsa_S-13
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Wow, people to need to relax and chill out. But anyway, obviously going with the T4 turbo you want really high HP numbers or you need to look into turbo'ing the KA alittle more. If your looking to make HP, what is your goal? And also high horsepower and cheap SSautochrome manifolds= bad idea. 3" intercooler piping is also unneeded. I'd go with 2.75" piping on the cold side and probably 2.5" on the hot side, if your looking to make serious numbers. 2.25" and 2.5", as someone stated earlier, also works fine.

I'm assuming your boosting your stock KA engine. In that case you need to ditch the T4 and 3" intercooler piping. Building a turbo setup with around 7psi and 250wrhp is definately enough to get you into the 13s and also won't put alot of strain on your old KA's internals.

Going with the HKS BOV and 300zx maf isn't a bad idea and as for oil lines go with IAP. For the ecu look at your power goals. For a basic setup you could probably go with the Apex'i SAFC-II and have a shop tune your car for you. Higher horsepower though requires that you get a high flowing fuel pump (ex. Walbro 255lph), bigger injectors, and tuned ECU. Enthalpy and JWT seem to have a good reputation for ECUs.

As for the manifold, for my setup I'll be running an ETD Racing Manifold. You could also look at IAP's ( http://www.import-autoperformance.com ) manifold and downpipe.

Good luck and do lots of reading.....

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C-Kwik
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Kenrik wrote:No it's not... I said you can run a JWT without a SAFC II What the hell are you talking about? The JWT ECU is an off the shelf product not 100% customized for the specific engine! It automaticly corrects the settings for what it knows is on the car just the way a stock ECU would which is not always the most efficient..

I said to TUNE the A/F ratio you would need a S-AFC II There is a difference between tuning and letting the JWT ECU make it's own adjustments using the stock o2 sensor you have in your car.
Why spend that kind of money on such a set-up, that in the end fights itself?

First off JWT ECU's can be custom tuned. It's a bit difficult for most as it would require a lot of back and forth, unless you happen to be able to drive down to JWT and have them tune it. But secondly, while they are a bit conservative, the tune is not that bad. By tuning it more aggressively, you're not going to make a ton of additional power. I've heard of several reliable 350 HP KA's (at 14 psi) and all ran on a standard JWT tune using 50# injectors and a Cobra MAF.

Keep in mind that the OEM and JWT ECU's both ignore the O2 sensor under WOT. Both make adjustments based on the O2 signal at part throttle and idle. This means, that even with a piggy-back, it is still trying to acheive the ECU's desired A/F unless you are at WOT. So the only place any piggyback would truly me makiing a difference is at WOT. The exception may be the new E-Manage Ultimate which provides it's own injector signals. This is more of a hybrid piggy-back anyways.

Honestly, if you are searching for these minimal amounts of power by piggy-backing a JWT ECU, then I would seriously look at planning the hardware aspects of the turbo system better than to go through the trouble of trying to fine-tune an A/F for power. The dynotime needed for such a thing, along with the piggy-back system are probably going to be more expensive than the cost of better hardware. Not to mention you can do it at a much safer level of ECU tuning.

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Nismochick240
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ok i'm looking for about 350rwhp... or more... lol... i'm completly BUILDING the ka24... no stock internals cept for maybe the crank lol-- going w/ 8:5:1 pistons i know that for sure... there's soo many opinions on the ecu though-- i'm trying NOT to spend a lot of money on the ecu lol... w/ the o2 sensor--> what about the svt cobra sensor-- i heard from superstreets 04 nov edition it will work for up to 400hp-- i'm going w/ a turbo 300z fuel pump and injectors (still unknown about the size) and a fpr...

as for tunin w/ a dyno-- the only dyno around here is in atlanta like 2 hrs away from me... so i'm looking to by an ecu that will fit all my needs and i wont have to go to a dyno to TUNE... but if its expensive i guess i'll have to buy it....

oh by the way-- i'm using a 95 ka24 w/ my s13 cams-- will the STOCK ecu from my 91 work w/ the 95?? just a question!

Thanks for all the help guys!!

240DRFT
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Nismochick240 wrote:ok i'm looking for about 350rwhp... or more... lol... i'm completly BUILDING the ka24... no stock internals cept for maybe the crank lol-- going w/ 8:5:1 pistons i know that for sure... there's soo many opinions on the ecu though-- i'm trying NOT to spend a lot of money on the ecu lol... w/ the o2 sensor--> what about the svt cobra sensor-- i heard from superstreets 04 nov edition it will work for up to 400hp-- i'm going w/ a turbo 300z fuel pump and injectors (still unknown about the size) and a fpr...

as for tunin w/ a dyno-- the only dyno around here is in atlanta like 2 hrs away from me... so i'm looking to by an ecu that will fit all my needs and i wont have to go to a dyno to TUNE... but if its expensive i guess i'll have to buy it....

oh by the way-- i'm using a 95 ka24 w/ my s13 cams-- will the STOCK ecu from my 91 work w/ the 95?? just a question!

Thanks for all the help guys!!
u mean MAF not O2 right?

if u want to to use the 91 ecu u might need to convert more parts like the harness, distrib and lower intake mani.

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Nismochick240
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yea lol my bad

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K240
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Yeah the 91 throttle body(lower intake manifold) will not work with the 95.

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Nismochick240
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so if i swap a 95 ka in my car i have to use the 95 ecu

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K240
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You can use the 95 ECU, but the Harness might be different.

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Nismochick240
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i'll prolly use the 95 wireing harness

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K240
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So what are your power goals etc??

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K240
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By the Way, doesnt the SSAutochrome Manifold use the T2small Flange, therefore you could NOT use a T4 or T3/T4 turbo??

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DammitBobby
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oh by the way-- i'm using a 95 ka24 w/ my s13 cams-- will the STOCK ecu from my 91 work w/ the 95?? just a question!

Yes it will work. That is exactly what I am doing. Purchased a fully built KA 95 motor a few weeks ago. Only thing so far that I have found different is you have to use the 95 valve cover if you are using the 95 head. The other difference is the intake manifold does not have a butterfly valve where the 91 does.

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Nismochick240
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thanks bobby! that was one of the questions i've been trying to get answered! lol! i found a t4 manifold from ssautocrome--thats the only one i've seen for the ka w/ a t4 flange... all the others are t25/t28


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