Post by
Scott Buwalda »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/scott-buwalda-u7159.html
Tue Aug 23, 2005 6:44 am
Hey guys:
The beast runs!!!!!
OK, understand for a moment exactly what we did here. There is NO S14 wiring anywhere in this car. It was all removed and replaced with an aftermarket wiring kit I made using circuit breakers, relays, and etc. Why? Just to say that I could, and to do a better job than what OEM did. So remember that when you think about the wiring. The only wire in this car that was OEM was R32. So, for all intents and purposes, this is an R32, at least as far as wiring is concerned. The poor guys at Top Hat nearly fell over when they realized that none of the wiring was OEM, other than a small amount of wire from each sensor or plug.
So as some of you may be aware, there was an issue with the electronics. I knew it wasn't wiring, as we had continuity tested every wire, front to back. The reason why the starter wasn't kicking over was because we had a faulty/faux pas engine ground. Reconnected that, and the engine immediately started to try to turn over. WE start working through the various scenarios...have spark, have fuel...tested timing....way off. The set screws on the adjustable cam gears were, well, loose. The motor was 40 degrees out of time (oops). We adjust it down to 20 degress and go to start. Now, under the advisement of Scott, we were only priming the fuel pump, and not allowing it to run. We have fuel (or so it seemed), spark, air, but the engine wouldn't turn over. So the car stereo guy in the group (me), amidst all of the engine guru's says "maybe we should just let the pump run for 30 seconds and see if it'll start." So I re-engage the fuel pump (Aeromotive), and try 30 seconds later....it studdders a bit then "wooooom", it starts right up. Loud as hell with only a downpipe. Music to my ears though.
So we might have a transmission problem now. I may have the wrong clutch in the box. It was not very clear if the RB30 box needed a push style or pull style. The driveshaft yoke spins irrrespective of whether or not the clutch is pushed in or out. I think the clutch is right, and that there's an internal issue caused by shipping (as the box won't go into any other gear than third or fifth with the engine off). The guys at Top Hat think it's the wrong clutch. More to come on this.
The interior is (hopefully) being finished up this weekend. Then we can debug the engine...we need to:
1. Remove the back half of the transmission (or the entire transmission).Fix whatever is causing the transmission to spin all the time, irrespectiveof when the clutch is in or out. Figure out if the clutch is indeed thewrong style. If it is, change it for the new clutch. Fill transmisssionwith Shock Proof oil. Fill rear differential with Shock Proof oil.2. Install new gaskets onto turbo water lines (the HKS ones leak).3. Bend, weld, and install test pipe between downpipe and KYO cat backexhaust.4. Install o-ring onto high-pressure power steering line and re-install theline. Re-fill system with power steering fluid (power steering leaks)5. Verify that the alternator is charging, now that the voltage regulatorwiring has been fixed.6. Polish and install stainless mandrell bent intercooler piping.7. Fix the cosmetics of the engine and wiring; fix all hacked heat shrink,etc.8. Install driveshaft.9. Measure and install torque damper bar to intake plenum and shock tower.
So, another few weeks, I hope. More detaisl to come soon. Meanwhile, Top Hat posted pics at southeastdrift.com They just neglected to mention me, the guy with 4,000 hours of labor on the car! LOL It's all good, these guys busted arse all weekend on this car, and I can't say enough about them!!!!
Scott