Going to look at a '03 This weekend...Need advice

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Pathfinder3.5
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Well my '02 LE is getting up there in mileage (175KMS). I know this ain't nothing for this motor but the suspension and sensors is what's killing me. Pretty much mint condition inside and out(Gold on Tan). This is my second pathfinder. I had an '01 LE back in 2004-2008. I regret selling it to this day.

I've been shopping around for an '04 LE. I wanted a '03 Platinum or 2004 mainly for the beautiful Gauge cluster and painted foor handles. But I figured an '03 will do, they still have the nicer interior and shifter indicator in the Gauge Cluster.

Anyways, Its a 2003 Pathfinder LE with only 114kms. Brown/Grey on Tan leather. The guy has owned it since 2007 and only put 15,000Kms on it. Kinda strange to only put 15,000kms on a vehicle in 5 years but oh well. Looks clean in the pictures. He claims it has been stored for 1 year due to a divorce. In the description he calls it his 'baby'.

What do you guys think? What should I look for when I go look at it?

My current '02 LE sat for a year inside a garage before I bought it. No problems!

Link to the Ad:

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicle ... Z343310707


lzrj
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That is a dang good price if it is all legit. That is 70,000 miles for around $7,500 after converting to US. Thought things were more expense in Canada than the US. I looked for a long time and everything that was for around that price had around 100,000 or more miles. I don't know if Carfax or Autocheck works in Canada the same but have it checked out. You really need to make sure it has not been involved in an accident. Since you have already owned 2 before you should know what to look for when driving it.

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Pathfinder3.5
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lzrj wrote:That is a dang good price if it is all legit. That is 70,000 miles for around $7,500 after converting to US. Thought things were more expense in Canada than the US. I looked for a long time and everything that was for around that price had around 100,000 or more miles. I don't know if Carfax or Autocheck works in Canada the same but have it checked out. You really need to make sure it has not been involved in an accident. Since you have already owned 2 before you should know what to look for when driving it.
Thats what is the selling point. If i like the way it drives and how it is overall, it will be mine. Driving-wise you are right, I know how it should drive. My current pathfinder has a terribly hard shift into second. Snaps your head. I never bothered with it cause it feels expensive :chuckle: . Carfax does work here in Canada so I will be getting one of those forsure. I will be taking a good look at the overall appearance of it just to make sure its not a Odometer rollback. I test drove a 2003 before I bought my '02 and it had a vibration while in reverse. I dont like small things like that because they can turn into big issues(Valvebody in the transmission).

I'll let you guys know how it goes!

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Towncivilian
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That looks immaculate. Same exterior color as my own Pathfinder.

I'm not sure how that specific one is price-wise. Ensure it isn't affected by the rust recall. If you end up purchasing it, swap out all the fluids, put threadlocker on the power valve screws (just in case!), run some fuel system cleaner through a couple tanks and you should be set!

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Pathfinder3.5
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Towncivilian wrote:That looks immaculate. Same exterior color as my own Pathfinder.

I'm not sure how that specific one is price-wise. Ensure it isn't affected by the rust recall. If you end up purchasing it, swap out all the fluids, put threadlocker on the power valve screws (just in case!), run some fuel system cleaner through a couple tanks and you should be set!
Love the color, that's forsure. I just got my Pathfinder back from the dealer. They did the 'Level 2 Repair'. Installed some brackets and sealed it up. I like the fact that they do both sides just to play it safe!

If i do end up going for this one, It's the keeper. I only have had my '02 for two years. I'll be doing all the fluids, Possibly the powervalve screws, Tinting the front and tailgate window to match the rears and other stuff like that. I wish the guy would of turned his iPhone sideways when he took the pics! I want to see if the CEL is on or not! I'll take a codescanner with me just incase. I'm pretty pumped right now. I can't really see myself owning anything else then a R50. No other truck on the road in its age really matches up with it's looks and driving. Can't stand the looks of the 4Runner ;)

EDIT: Also noticed the TPMS light is on...One thing I can't stand. As long as its just a low tire, I'll be fine. If not, That light better be able to be turned off.

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Towncivilian
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Even if the CEL is not on, try pulling codes anyway as there may be one or more stored.

It's excellent that a repair was already completed. Perhaps stay on top of things and do rust proofing from now on? I'm not familiar with the process as I live in Florida, so maybe someone else can offer advice in this regard.

Good luck with the purchase!

EDIT: D'oh, I misread. I thought you said the potential purchase Pathfinder has already been repaired.

I don't have any experience with potential TPMS failures. I also echo your hope that it's just a low tire. The seller claims it was in storage, right? Perhaps they just didn't bother airing up the tires. Spare's probably empty.

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Pathfinder3.5
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Towncivilian wrote:Even if the CEL is not on, try pulling codes anyway as there may be one or more stored.

It's excellent that a repair was already completed. Perhaps stay on top of things and do rust proofing from now on? I'm not familiar with the process as I live in Florida, so maybe someone else can offer advice in this regard.

Good luck with the purchase!

EDIT: D'oh, I misread. I thought you said the potential purchase Pathfinder has already been repaired.

I don't have any experience with potential TPMS failures. I also echo your hope that it's just a low tire. The seller claims it was in storage, right? Perhaps they just didn't bother airing up the tires. Spare's probably empty.

Yeah I will check for Stored codes just to be sure. The weekend I got my current '02 I had it rustproofed. All of my vehicles are rustproofed annually! Something I've always been crazy about.

And yeah! It's my current '02 that has been repaired. Just got it back tonight. I was really hoping for a total loss :chuckle:

The one i'm going to look at is a mystery. The driver side fenderwell is going to be a BIG area of concern. If it looks like mine on the inside and out, It will be mine. If its worse, I might have to take it to a nissan dealer before purchase. I wouldn't want to buy a truck then have it taken away from me right away.

The owner claims its been in storage for a year. Same thing as my current '02. I also noticed the clock says '1:16' in the pictures. Good possibility it was boosted since most car clocks start at 1:00 from a dead start. He says it needs a battery. I have a good booster back and some booster cables that I'll bring with me!

fleurys
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check the oil level before starting it, then listen carefully at the engine on initial start for tick noises... you do not want a truck with one or more power valve screws that have fallen. check if the radio antenna works.

have a good test drive with the seller AND the radio OFF :-) and listen for knocks or play in the diffs, links. be attentive for vibrations under your feet for any ujoint failure signs.

Try the 4Hi and the 4lo

check if there is good heat from the heater. Check all speed level of the fan.

during your test drive, test the abs on a patch of ice or snow.

good luck

:-)

S.

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Pathfinder3.5
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fleurys wrote:check the oil level before starting it, then listen carefully at the engine on initial start for tick noises... you do not want a truck with one or more power valve screws that have fallen. check if the radio antenna works.

have a good test drive with the seller AND the radio OFF :-) and listen for knocks or play in the diffs, links. be attentive for vibrations under your feet for any ujoint failure signs.

Try the 4Hi and the 4lo

check if there is good heat from the heater. Check all speed level of the fan.

during your test drive, test the abs on a patch of ice or snow.

good luck

:-)

S.
Thats some really good info! Funny cause i'm looking at the Powervalve threadlocker topic right now :chuckle:

The Radio antenna on my truck is a little temperamental. My last '01 barley worked at all. I will look at that though.

I've always been very thorough with my test drives. Always test 4HI and LO. A nice little highway run with a WOT on-ramp merge is a must ;) I'll crawl under it and take a GOOOD look. Especially the driverside fenderwell. I'll give all the driveshafts a turn by hand to see if there is any excess play.

I really think this will be my last Pathfinder for a while. The updated interior vs my '02 really makes me like it much more. Dash layout is just so much nicer. This is the one that I really pour the money into on General Maintenance. First think it will be going in for will be Diff Fluids, Coolant flush, Spark plugs, Throttle body cleaning, Ill throw the new MAF I have here, the new Fuel Filter I have had laying around here for months and a bunch of other stuff.

Front and hatch glass tinted to match the rears is a must aswell :naughty:

Not alot of snow here in Toronto. Been above 1 Celsius all week. Spring came early!

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Don't forget to do a cooler line exchange of the transmission fluid, or a pan drop then a cooler line exchange and an in-line filter install to be extremely thorough. Also change out some power steering fluid with synthetic ATF using a turkey baster for improved cold weather performance and lowered operating temperatures. Grease the driveshaft(s), bleed the brakes, change the cabin air filter too.

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Pathfinder3.5
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Towncivilian wrote:Don't forget to do a cooler line exchange of the transmission fluid, or a pan drop then a cooler line exchange and an in-line filter install to be extremely thorough. Also change out some power steering fluid with synthetic ATF using a turkey baster for improved cold weather performance and lowered operating temperatures. Grease the driveshaft(s), bleed the brakes, change the cabin air filter too.
I've always been strange when it comes to Transmissions. Not a fan of flushing it just from horror stories. I think I may just do a simple Pan drop and Filter. A Power Steering fluid flush is another must. Synthetic ATF is safe to use?

I bled the brakes on my current one last summer...Very easy job actually! I'm glad I can do alot of this stuff on my own during the summer. I may only be 16 but my Mechanical knowledge blows alot of people away. I like my Nissans thats forsure. 2001 LE, 2002 LE now hopefully a 2003 LE :chuckle:

The Cabin Air filter is interesting too. I was going to change it on my '02 but it just simply doesn't exist. Left me scratching my head. I heard some models came with them and some didn't. Maybe this one does!

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"Flushing" is not the correct term. There is no power-assisted flush involved, you are using the transmission's own pump to replace all of the fluid. See the procedure in the "Transmission & driveline" section in the general information thread.

PSF and ATF are very similar hydraulic fluids. The FSM lists Dexron III as suitable for use in the power steering system, so synthetic ATF is usable and an excellent choice.

You can add a cabin air filter easily. See installation instructions here.

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Pathfinder3.5
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Towncivilian wrote:"Flushing" is not the correct term. There is no power-assisted flush involved, you are using the transmission's own pump to replace all of the fluid. See the procedure in the "Transmission & driveline" section in the general information thread.

PSF and ATF are very similar hydraulic fluids. The FSM lists Dexron III as suitable for use in the power steering system, so synthetic ATF is usable and an excellent choice.

You can add a cabin air filter easily. See installation instructions here.

Oh I see. That makes more sense.

I'm really looking forward to Sunday now. I'd hate for all of this hype to be done then have it turn out to be a bad truck. I don't think the guy gets online very often to check his email but I do have a number that I'll give a call to if he doesn't respond to my email by tomorrow evening. I've already talked to him through a few e-mails and set up for a viewing this weekend but i've asked how long it was since it last moved and if i'f have to bring a booster pack, no reply yet. He say's noone has come to look at it yet. I don't mind that at all :chuckle:

Buzzman
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Keep us up to date on this one. I'm very interested to see how it goes.
I've been seriously thinking of getting a "new" R50 in the near future as well.
Mine has over 250,000 Kms on it now, and even though it is still trouble free, I'd love to replace it with another one (low mileage cream puff of course).
Trouble is, here in Ottawa with the crappy winters and ridiculous amounts of road salt, a rust free unit is almost impossible to find.
I just came back from Scottdale, Arizona (Barrett-Jackson...yes), and I saw some beautiful R50's down there. I wanted one SO bad.
Does anyone know how difficult it would be to bring one back from the U.S. into Canada?
Cheers.

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Pathfinder3.5
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Buzzman wrote:Keep us up to date on this one. I'm very interested to see how it goes.
I've been seriously thinking of getting a "new" R50 in the near future as well.
Mine has over 250,000 Kms on it now, and even though it is still trouble free, I'd love to replace it with another one (low mileage cream puff of course).
Trouble is, here in Ottawa with the crappy winters and ridiculous amounts of road salt, a rust free unit is almost impossible to find.
I just came back from Scottdale, Arizona (Barrett-Jackson...yes), and I saw some beautiful R50's down there. I wanted one SO bad.
Does anyone know how difficult it would be to bring one back from the U.S. into Canada?
Cheers.
These things are tanks that's forsure. But once something does go wrong, bring your wallet. I'd love to get a R50 from Arizona or down south.

I don't believe that it would take much to import one to Canada. DRL's are a must.

The guy's phone has been off for the last two days and he has yet to reply to my question email. I'm starting to worry that this won't be happening but im praying :gotme

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Well guys, I'm going to need a prayer. Either the guy lost his phone or something happened. No replies to any emails and his phone number goes right to voicemail.

Wish me luck. I'm supposed to go see it sunday so I do still have all of today for a reply.

EDIT: Good news. Got a hold of the guy and talked on the phone. Going to look at it at 11AM Eastern tmrw morning!

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Well guys, it turned out to need work. It was sitting outside for a year so the rotors and pads are toast. My foot went to the floor when I tried to stop. It was a great runner and shifted smoothly, but underneith had never been undercoated. It was VERY rusty underneith. Part of the inner fenderwell plastic towards the front end was missing. The battery was totally flat. The engine looked like it was left open the entire year. Everything was rusty but the body panels. The paint and everything else was perfect.

I'm going to pass this one. I can get it for $6800 but the amount of rust and work it needs just doesn't make it worth it in my opinion. I'll keep looking for a somewhat low-mileage 2003-04 LE.

4WD light stayed illuminated. It seems to be because it was dead for so long. He had instructions on how to reset the 4WD light from NissanForums.

EDIT: Still thinking about this. It drove and felt alot better than my current pathfinder. The only thing that is shying me away is the fact that It needs work and that its so rusty underneath. All of the doors and pillars are in perfect shape. The body has a nice shine all around. EVERYTHING works. 4WD, all windows, speakers, lights....everything.
I'm going to try and take it over to my work and get my mechanics to look at it. If I can undercoat it and slow down the rust underneith it might just be worth the $6800 for a 114KM pathy. Let me know what you guys think!!

Image

To make my day even better I came home to this:

Image

Haven't pissed anyone off that I know of. Must of been a random act of kindness :frown:

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rusted rotors is nothing.. they can be either resurfaced or even have the rust removed (check metalrescue.com)... the 4wd light troubles me a little... saying that it is because it was parked for so long, does not sound right to me...) These r50 have a transfercase electric oil pump to lubricate the TC while it is on neutral or reverse.... you want to make sure the oiling system of the TC is working... so this light could be a potential money costing issue. As for the rust underneath, if the strut tower metal sheet looks good, then it can be fixed with other products..

If you really want this one and the engine sounds very good (no knocking at all), then I would offer 5K and go from there....

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fleurys wrote:rusted rotors is nothing.. they can be either resurfaced or even have the rust removed (check metalrescue.com)... the 4wd light troubles me a little... saying that it is because it was parked for so long, does not sound right to me...) These r50 have a transfercase electric oil pump to lubricate the TC while it is on neutral or reverse.... you want to make sure the oiling system of the TC is working... so this light could be a potential money costing issue. As for the rust underneath, if the strut tower metal sheet looks good, then it can be fixed with other products..

If you really want this one and the engine sounds very good (no knocking at all), then I would offer 5K and go from there....
I looked at the Driver side fenderwell and it's about the same as mine. The problem is that he still has a lean of $6800 on it. He said he would come to the bank with us and do it right then and there. He also said that we know where he lives :chuckle: So thats why he will only go down to $6800.

I did some research and it seems that since it was dead for so long it can sometimes do the 4WD light thing. It was making a beeping sound ever 20 seconds from the electronic 4WD selector area. Must of been because that light was on. I'm going to sleep on it and maybe ask if I can leave him with a downpayment and take it home for an evening this saturday to put it up on a lift, get the rust off the rotors and put a cheap battery in it. If all is good, it might just be mine. I'm looking at some QX4's online now but there aren't any low mileage ones around.

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Pull the transfer case code by following the instructions on page TF-63 of the FSM. Hopefully it's something simple.

Get the tires aired up somehow, see if the TPMS light goes out.

That sucks about your window. Will insurance cover it?

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Towncivilian wrote:Pull the transfer case code by following the instructions on page TF-63 of the FSM. Hopefully it's something simple.

Get the tires aired up somehow, see if the TPMS light goes out.

That sucks about your window. Will insurance cover it?
$500 deductable just isn't worth it. I'm gunna call around to a few places tomorrow. I wish I had my time back, I forgot to bring my code scanner and didn't even bother with the tires, but trust me..they were low.

I need some help on making a decision here!! Im confused/don't really know what to do :crazy:

The 4WD worked in 4HI and LO thats forsure though.

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simple...for it to be not a money hole, you need to make sure why the 4wd warning light is on... On page TF-64, there is a good 20+ reasons listed there.. Depending on the diagnostic procedure on TF-63, you will be able to know for sure... If you are lucky, the flickering will occur 4 times per second..This means the battery was disconnected for a long time (like the seller told you), then once a good battery is in it, you disconnect /reconnect the Transfer case control unit and drive a while, then redo a diagnostic procedure... But you must confirm this before forking your money or you run the risk of regretting it...

my 2cents..

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fleurys wrote:simple...for it to be not a money hole, you need to make sure why the 4wd warning light is on... On page TF-64, there is a good 20+ reasons listed there.. Depending on the diagnostic procedure on TF-63, you will be able to know for sure... If you are lucky, the flickering will occur 4 times per second..This means the battery was disconnected for a long time (like the seller told you), then once a good battery is in it, you disconnect /reconnect the Transfer case control unit and drive a while, then redo a diagnostic procedure... But you must confirm this before forking your money or you run the risk of regretting it...

my 2cents..
Sounds like a plan. Gunna sleep on it. I'll keep you guys updated.

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Towncivilian
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Your generic code scanner isn't going to pull a transfer case code, most likely. Bring it anyway on the off chance that it does. Otherwise, print out TF-63 and TF-64. Good luck!

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Finkle
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You can always buy mine and drive it back!

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A generic code scanner should pull up the numeric transfer case code but is unlikely to give the correct text interpretation.
So bring the FSM.

Chuck

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Sorry to rain on your parade, but after reading everything here, I'd recommend you walk away from this vehicle.
Sounds like you're a little too emotional with this truck, and that you're trying to will it into a problem free ride.
From this side of the fence, I see too many red flags popping up here. It doesn't seem like it's worth the risk (and it is a risk at this point).
I also think the price is too high and that the owner is trying to squeeze you into buying at his price. The fact that there is a lien on it can complicate matters as well.
Unless you need a new vehicle like yesterday, I'd keep looking around.
My $.02
Cheers.

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Finkle wrote:You can always buy mine and drive it back!
You have no idea how many times I've considered that. I LOVE your truck! Mileage is up there but its a Alabama*/Florida vehicle! Since it would be used as a grocery getter/weekend driver...the lift wouldn't be needed.
Last edited by Pathfinder3.5 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 4:29 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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Buzzman wrote:Sorry to rain on your parade, but after reading everything here, I'd recommend you walk away from this vehicle.
Sounds like you're a little too emotional with this truck, and that you're trying to will it into a problem free ride.
From this side of the fence, I see too many red flags popping up here. It doesn't seem like it's worth the risk (and it is a risk at this point).
I also think the price is too high and that the owner is trying to squeeze you into buying at his price. The fact that there is a lien on it can complicate matters as well.
Unless you need a new vehicle like yesterday, I'd keep looking around.
My $.02
Cheers.
All i'm looking for is a nice, clean low mileage LE. I'm done with this one. I'll keep looking around for a clean low mileage QX4 or pathfinder. Too much going on with this one. You're right. Not so much on the price part though. The price is perfect for the mileage it has. If anything he is selling it for much lower than it should be. But then again, the rust underneith and the small issues may be the reason why.


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