Finally got it picked up yesterday.
It's a 1996 with 5spd transmission.
Everything is stock except for the Suspension which is H&R adjustable struts. I believe it is currently lowered about 2".
Straight body in need of paint.Clean Interior in need of only a carpet scrubbing.
No immediate plans for a build but all my build thread start with a stock overview. Within the next 2 months the basics will be finished (Intake, Catback exhaust, Pulleys, Wheels) Hopefully I'll get a wideband and an AFC in there for future work which is yet to be determined. For now though here are the pics. enjoy
Modified by GODCHSR at 6:46 AM 6/29/2009
Godchsr S14 Build Thread
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s14derrick
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Re: Godchsr S14 Build Thread (GODCHSR)
looks like a good car to start working on good luck
Yeah that's why I bought it. There were other cars that cost less or others modified but this was was free of rust (except one small spot after a thorough inspection in front of the Passenger rear wheel).
The HR suspension would have been my choice as well since I ran HR Struts on my VW Golf and it handled amazing... for the record though: That Golf could NOT come close to touching the way this s14 handles... not even close IMO.
I've been a Nissan owner since 2000 when I bought my first S13 which I loved BUT sold it and bought a 300zx (bad choice). I went through 2 Z32s and finally just quit with that car. I don't like the Z32 at all (except for looks and stock power) It was just far too much work anytime you decided to work on something that couldn't be 'seen'. It was a pain and took 3 or 4 good years away from my life hahahahahahaha
Anyway, I own a 1994 Infiniti G20 and a 1996 Infiniti I30. In the non-NICO clan I also own a 1994 Jeep Wrangler which is beasty as heck!
This S14 is gonna be getting all my love from here on out.
The HR suspension would have been my choice as well since I ran HR Struts on my VW Golf and it handled amazing... for the record though: That Golf could NOT come close to touching the way this s14 handles... not even close IMO.
I've been a Nissan owner since 2000 when I bought my first S13 which I loved BUT sold it and bought a 300zx (bad choice). I went through 2 Z32s and finally just quit with that car. I don't like the Z32 at all (except for looks and stock power) It was just far too much work anytime you decided to work on something that couldn't be 'seen'. It was a pain and took 3 or 4 good years away from my life hahahahahahaha
Anyway, I own a 1994 Infiniti G20 and a 1996 Infiniti I30. In the non-NICO clan I also own a 1994 Jeep Wrangler which is beasty as heck!
This S14 is gonna be getting all my love from here on out.
Re: (GODCHSR)
Ordered a CAI yesterday... yes, a CAI not a WAI. Should be here next week I'll post pics of that then BUT last night I also went out and bought some 17s off a local Honduh site and got a heck of a deal! Anyway, I'll have those installed this evening and get some photos up. Just got to buy different lugs becaust Honduh uses a different thread pattern.
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s14derrick
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Re: (GODCHSR)
looking good so far man.keep us updated on progress
Re: (s14derrick)
This week I am going to complete 2 tasks.1- The CAI will have arrived in the mail and I will install that.2- I am going to relocate the battery in the trunk.
The rellocation of the battery is really a preperatory move in case I decide to go turbo in the future. It'll give me more space for tubing.
Anyway, I'll post pics of both installs and any hiccups I come across.
The rellocation of the battery is really a preperatory move in case I decide to go turbo in the future. It'll give me more space for tubing.
Anyway, I'll post pics of both installs and any hiccups I come across.
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s14derrick
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Re: (GODCHSR)
just watch out for water with that intake. maybe get an aem bypass. how tough was it to relocate the battery have been considering it for a long time.
Re: (s14derrick)
I wont be driving too crazy during the rain and during winter Ill just stay WAI.
The battery relocation was pretty simple.I bought about 10 feet of wire, two 10" battery tiedown rods and 1 terminal clamp.I just relocated the negative cable from the front to the rear. I bolted it down in 2 spots.Anyquestions just ask...I'll snap an 'after' pic real quick... brb
The battery relocation was pretty simple.I bought about 10 feet of wire, two 10" battery tiedown rods and 1 terminal clamp.I just relocated the negative cable from the front to the rear. I bolted it down in 2 spots.Anyquestions just ask...I'll snap an 'after' pic real quick... brb
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s14derrick
- Posts: 1322
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Re: (GODCHSR)
looks like you are getting it little by little. maybe you should move this to the 240 gen chat. seems liek it would get more traffic over there
Re: (s14derrick)
I have no idea where that is but if you can point me in the right direction or send a mod a note to move it that would be cool!
Update for the day: I purchased an UO Pulley kit. This one has the PS, AC and Water but no Crank. I'll buy the Crank Pulley next and install them all at once that way I'm not buying belts twice.
Also I have a budget DIY project up my sleeve and I will be posting a full-write up on it sometime this weekend... it's a big saver IMO
Update for the day: I purchased an UO Pulley kit. This one has the PS, AC and Water but no Crank. I'll buy the Crank Pulley next and install them all at once that way I'm not buying belts twice.
Also I have a budget DIY project up my sleeve and I will be posting a full-write up on it sometime this weekend... it's a big saver IMO
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liquid_cool
- Posts: 1700
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- Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect
Re: (GODCHSR)
not to shabby man for a homebuilt hero!..keep it up.
OK... So I got theidea to do a custom "Cat Back" From my days of fabbing on my Jeep Wrangler. The only major hiccup was that I don't have a tube bender and I don't have a Jeep anymore so my Jeep "frends" might not be interested inhelping on a project with me since I sold the Wrangler.
I had to think out of the box.... I could pay to get the bends done OR just do some "scaled cuts" (I've always called it that) and create semi soft bends.
Let's start with the goal here: Make a CatBack exhaust for under $50.
I know yu're thinking that you can get em cheap on Ebay so you may as well buy it new. True and those would be nicer by far but from my experience: I have always seemed to find dissatisfaction with various aspects of exhausts and ended up chopping them to pieces to add cut outs, add side pipes, run duals, etc... I'm not suggesting any of that is proper or necessary but I am the type who tries out different things reguardless of popular opinion (Case in point: I still think high back racing spolers look AWESOME!)
So here's the best I got as far as a write up goes.
1- Go to Auto store and buy a 2.25"ID - 2"OD adapter $4 (This will perfectly couple the new exhaust to the old one via weld) Also buy two 2" flanges if you are wanting to make this removable (I just welded mine on)
2- Go to Lowes and buy and 8ft 2 3/8" Fence pipe $18
3- Buy the Apexi N1 'style' muffler off of ebay for $30 shipped (I got one local for $30 but not N1 style) This cheap muffler is the same one on the catback you'd buy off of ebay, so no argument please... I know this is a cheap route.
4- Weld the coupler to the end of the pipe (I hope you have a welder they are great tools. Save up some dough... I got my Hobart for only $350 which is an amazing welder.
5- Cut off the old exhaust. Keep in mind that where you cut will change the angles and lengths of my write up BUT I highly recommend my choice as being the best results and upgradeable to a turbo downpipe if you go turbo later on.I cut mine off right behind the front Cat.
Lay the two pipes side by side now...
6- Make the first bend 38" from the end of the pipe (including coupler) It was approximately 22.5 degrees but as a good rule of thumb if you make the bend slowly and check it against the previous pipe then you will be fine.
7- Make the second bend 48" from the end of the previous bend. This bend can be a various angles depending on the style you want... angled muffler or straight back etc... The less of a bend the greater the angle of the muffler (IE: Apexi N1 has the most extreme angled muffler) I did a 30 degree angle so I could create a better straight back muffler.
Note: like I said I don't have a bender so I created bends by cutting 'scales' about 90% into the tube and bending the scales into each other. The more scales you cut the greater the bend and you will stay closer to original pipe diameter than you would with a cheap pipe bender because you are maintaining pipe size.
8- Tack weld bends (if you do it my way). Get under car and check angles for clearance. If it all fits, weld up the bends. If you had a bender obviously just double check your angles here.
9- Put the new pipe on under the car. I used jack stands and shims to hold the pipe in place while I weld the 2 together.
If you are going to use flanges weld those on and just bolt it up... support the back with a stand.
10- While it's being supported in the proper place go ahead and cut the exhaust hangers off the old pipe and put them on the new pipe. In case you're slower than the average bear follow this: Attch the hangr to they're origial mounting points on the car FIRST.THEN weld them onto the new pipe. Reversing this process would cause alot of pipe vibration while driving.
11- Time for the hard part IMO... Getting the muffler to sit perfectly.It'll take some time to achieve want you want but patience is a virtue... do NOT weld it up until you are satisied... tack tack tackThis icludes the hangers since sagging and stress will change the angles after the factOnce you've created the look you want finish the weld and drop the car. You're done.
I didn't go N1 style, although it would be easier but probably a little louder since I used a slightly more "oval" muffler. The circular ones tend IMO to generate a more popping farting noise where the one I have sounds like it's resonated. If you go with an N1 style I'd recommend a resonator for sure.
End result: I spent less than $50 after tax and got a good sound. IMO it looks good.There was a noticeable power increase in upper RPMs and the pulling power is amazing different. Torque was obviously affected positively.
Any questions just ask and I will clarify to the best of my ability.
Modified by GODCHSR at 6:45 AM 6/29/2009
I had to think out of the box.... I could pay to get the bends done OR just do some "scaled cuts" (I've always called it that) and create semi soft bends.
Let's start with the goal here: Make a CatBack exhaust for under $50.
I know yu're thinking that you can get em cheap on Ebay so you may as well buy it new. True and those would be nicer by far but from my experience: I have always seemed to find dissatisfaction with various aspects of exhausts and ended up chopping them to pieces to add cut outs, add side pipes, run duals, etc... I'm not suggesting any of that is proper or necessary but I am the type who tries out different things reguardless of popular opinion (Case in point: I still think high back racing spolers look AWESOME!)
So here's the best I got as far as a write up goes.
1- Go to Auto store and buy a 2.25"ID - 2"OD adapter $4 (This will perfectly couple the new exhaust to the old one via weld) Also buy two 2" flanges if you are wanting to make this removable (I just welded mine on)
2- Go to Lowes and buy and 8ft 2 3/8" Fence pipe $18
3- Buy the Apexi N1 'style' muffler off of ebay for $30 shipped (I got one local for $30 but not N1 style) This cheap muffler is the same one on the catback you'd buy off of ebay, so no argument please... I know this is a cheap route.
4- Weld the coupler to the end of the pipe (I hope you have a welder they are great tools. Save up some dough... I got my Hobart for only $350 which is an amazing welder.
5- Cut off the old exhaust. Keep in mind that where you cut will change the angles and lengths of my write up BUT I highly recommend my choice as being the best results and upgradeable to a turbo downpipe if you go turbo later on.I cut mine off right behind the front Cat.
Lay the two pipes side by side now...
6- Make the first bend 38" from the end of the pipe (including coupler) It was approximately 22.5 degrees but as a good rule of thumb if you make the bend slowly and check it against the previous pipe then you will be fine.
7- Make the second bend 48" from the end of the previous bend. This bend can be a various angles depending on the style you want... angled muffler or straight back etc... The less of a bend the greater the angle of the muffler (IE: Apexi N1 has the most extreme angled muffler) I did a 30 degree angle so I could create a better straight back muffler.
Note: like I said I don't have a bender so I created bends by cutting 'scales' about 90% into the tube and bending the scales into each other. The more scales you cut the greater the bend and you will stay closer to original pipe diameter than you would with a cheap pipe bender because you are maintaining pipe size.
8- Tack weld bends (if you do it my way). Get under car and check angles for clearance. If it all fits, weld up the bends. If you had a bender obviously just double check your angles here.
9- Put the new pipe on under the car. I used jack stands and shims to hold the pipe in place while I weld the 2 together.
If you are going to use flanges weld those on and just bolt it up... support the back with a stand.
10- While it's being supported in the proper place go ahead and cut the exhaust hangers off the old pipe and put them on the new pipe. In case you're slower than the average bear follow this: Attch the hangr to they're origial mounting points on the car FIRST.THEN weld them onto the new pipe. Reversing this process would cause alot of pipe vibration while driving.
11- Time for the hard part IMO... Getting the muffler to sit perfectly.It'll take some time to achieve want you want but patience is a virtue... do NOT weld it up until you are satisied... tack tack tackThis icludes the hangers since sagging and stress will change the angles after the factOnce you've created the look you want finish the weld and drop the car. You're done.
I didn't go N1 style, although it would be easier but probably a little louder since I used a slightly more "oval" muffler. The circular ones tend IMO to generate a more popping farting noise where the one I have sounds like it's resonated. If you go with an N1 style I'd recommend a resonator for sure.
End result: I spent less than $50 after tax and got a good sound. IMO it looks good.There was a noticeable power increase in upper RPMs and the pulling power is amazing different. Torque was obviously affected positively.
Any questions just ask and I will clarify to the best of my ability.
Modified by GODCHSR at 6:45 AM 6/29/2009
Re: Godchsr S14 Build Thread (s14derrick)
minty!!!!!
Re: Godchsr S14 Build Thread (DirtyGhettoKids)
ok...DirtyGhettoKids wrote:
It looks just like every other Zenki pretty much
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s14derrick
- Posts: 1322
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2008 12:09 pm
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Re: Godchsr S14 Build Thread (GODCHSR)
dont mind the haters i think it looks good so far. good idea on the exhaust
Re: Godchsr S14 Build Thread (s14derrick)
Thanks.
I'll probably end up with a complete turbo kit in my possession by Christmas, once that happens I'll be bumping it up to a 3" exhaust. BUT for now this is a great exhaust and works exactly as it should.
I'll probably end up with a complete turbo kit in my possession by Christmas, once that happens I'll be bumping it up to a 3" exhaust. BUT for now this is a great exhaust and works exactly as it should.
I've decided to weld the differential next weekend... so keep an eye out for a DIY writeup on that. I'm pretty sure my Hobart should be able to penetrate those spider gears pretty deep. I may need to heat it up first with MAP gas.
If anyone has som experience with this let me know... I'm using a Hobart 140 AMP
If anyone has som experience with this let me know... I'm using a Hobart 140 AMP
Re: (GODCHSR)
Post #100!
Re: (GODCHSR)
wow one months work... your moving pretty quick alot quicker than i did at least
Re: (JIMMAAYY)
oh yeah and it LOOKS EXCELLENT im sure you wont have a problem with fabbing up anything you need when you go ka-t
Re: (JIMMAAYY)
Everything you're seeing is the not savings involved stuff really. As soon as I paid the car off (Like a week ago... I paid it off in 3 weeks) I started putting the money I am saving into an account for the 'big' stuff.JIMMAAYY wrote:wow one months work... your moving pretty quick
All this stuff is the petty cash purchases left over at the end of the week just to keep it interesting.
The savings account is for the Turbo build. I haven't finalized anything yet as to the exact direction I am going there BUT I think my build will look like this:Bottom MountGT28RS 'Disco'Air Water Intercooler with a MASSIVE water cooler up frontStage 3 ClutchLight FlywheelAluminum 1 Piece shaftWidebandCustom Tuning (Not sure about this yet)2 Step Launch ControlWide Rear Tires
So I'm holding out to save about $2000 then I'll start buying up some of the pieces. It'll cost me closer to $3000 but that'll give me some time for shipping to catch up.
This should be done by Fall and I'm hoping to be running mid-11 second 1/4 miles. I know that seems generous but I think with the right power band and perfect launches it will be more thn a dream.
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s14derrick
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Re: (GODCHSR)
i see now that all the work so far is just little stuff and prep work for ka-t .
keep us posted on when you start getting the turbo goodies
keep us posted on when you start getting the turbo goodies
Re: (GODCHSR)
you are definitely good at what you do, and very quick too. in for more updates!