Give me some ideas...

[skillzilla]

So I got to the cranking phase of my current swap, and needless to say Im stoked Only one problem, the biatch wont turn over!!

I didnt get a lot of time to diagnose the problem, but I did pull the CAS and turning it didn't fire the injectors, so Im sure thats it.

I used a series 2 RB20 CAS as mine was destroyed (see pic), had to modify the plug a bit but its tight on there. Are the pins different between a series1/series2 CAS plug?

Second possibility is the dropping resistor for the GT-R injectors, I wired it to switched power in and ran a connection to each of the injectors on the signal wire. resistor is getting 12v supplied, but I didnt get a chance to check what its putting out. Theres a chance I wired the injectors wrong, and they arent getting power

Anyways, Imma get more on it tomorrow, if you have any ideas on what I should check, LMK.

ps, I forget which way the fuel lines route, is it fuel filter line to the upper or lower line on the fuel rail??

[skillzilla]

Also, I used a series2 ignitor as well, are they different from a series one?

Thanks

[Florida240sx]

Wish I could help....I read a thread similiar to this when I was looking up injector question for my car.Tryin to think of what the title was...

[Joe]

Also, I used a series2 ignitor as well, are they different from a series one?

Thanks

series 2 from a rb20?

i didnt know there was a difference between any of the RB20 igniters.

[intrexin]

by series two are you talking about silver top rb20's?

[skillzilla]

by series two I mean the "RB20" wasnt stamped on the timing cover like my motor, which Ive always read means it came from a later car. not too much is different.

[Slo_240sx]

What do you mean by not turning over? Turning over as in motor won't rotate or crank with a no start.

Check Your wiring to your injectors check your plugs they may be fouled. See if your injectors are firing with noid lights. Sounds like bad wiring or a ignitor chip.-Alex

[gawdzilla]

pull out the CAS and turn it by hand w/ the ign on so things are quiet. feel/listen for the injectors and see if they are actuating. repeat w/ spark (DONT feel that one haha just visually look for spark w/ the plug out and grounded).

next, make sure your fuel is connected properly. order is feed line -> filter -> rail -> regulator ->return

if all of these are ok, i would say it is the timing

[skillzilla]

pull out the CAS and turn it by hand w/ the ign on so things are quiet. feel/listen for the injectors and see if they are actuating. repeat w/ spark (DONT feel that one haha just visually look for spark w/ the plug out and grounded).

next, make sure your fuel is connected properly. order is feed line -> filter -> rail -> regulator ->return

if all of these are ok, i would say it is the timing

I checked the CAS, its not firing the injectors, thats the issue, read the my first post Oh and I mean it will crank but not start. Starting diagnosis today, wish me luck :/

[gawdzilla]

whoops sorry i thought you werent sure if the injectors were firing ornot. in that case, open up the plug you have right before the resistor box and start checking continuity vs. the wiring diagram. then check resistance across the pins in the resistor box to make sure everything is wired correctly.

my setup is using 2 4 cyl resistor boxes. doesnt seem to be a problem yet.

[skillzilla]

Will do. I pulled a plug out today and checked for gas in the cylinders, nothing. Also checked for spark, nothing

This may take longer than I thought...

What I dont understand is I wired it the exact same as last time I did an RB swap and the other one worked fine, started right up.

[skillzilla]

Oh ya, thought Id mention, it is an auto-manual swapped chassis, my friend did the wiring for that (reverse lights, lower harness), but I saw on another thread theres a wire that needs to be jumped for it to start.

Any info on this?

[goofynick6]

Oh ya, thought Id mention, it is an auto-manual swapped chassis, my friend did the wiring for that (reverse lights, lower harness), but I saw on another thread theres a wire that needs to be jumped for it to start.

Any info on this?

On S14's anyway, you have to take this plug near the fusebox, it's in a cluster of 3 plugs stacked up and it is the top one, 2 wires coming from it and you have to just loop it so the wire going out goes right back into the other side of the plug. That tells it the car is in park or something and lets it start.

Nick

[BoostFab]

ps, I forget which way the fuel lines route, is it fuel filter line to the upper or lower line on the fuel rail??

the fuel return line will always connect to the fuel regulator.

first of all....before you go and replace all your parts, tripple check your wiring.

[skillzilla]

OK I figured out both problems at once, I found a plug identical to the series 2 CAS plug and swapped it onto my harness, cranked right up first try

So Im all types of stoked, but now I have that damn wont idle/sluggish power/nothing after 4k rpm's problem.

My MAFS is reading fine according to my E-Manage/E-01, has ~2 volts at 3k and fluctuates with airflow like normal.

Other than that, I dunno what the issue may be. I disconnected the TPS and it ran awesome for a bit, then kinda went back to the sluggish shyt. What do yall think, vacuum leak or something gone sour on the IACV or TPS?

[goofynick6]

I'm gonna start making and selling boost leak testers!

[skillzilla]

ok update time. We did a few tests today, basically realized the car acts fine when its warmed up, a little low on the idle but thats it. Makes boost and revs freely all the way to 7. When its cold it wont hold an idle, wont rev at all, bogs with any throttle, but will stay running, just all sputtery.

We sprayed a ton of carb cleaner all around the motor, didnt make any funny revving. Also hooked the MAFS directly to the intake tube and it didnt fix anything, so I would guess its something else besides a boost leak.

One interesting thing, when I goose the throttle it backfires in little tiny little spurts, super quick likea little moped or something ( ). Also, it surges forward once the thottle is let off, weirdest thing ever.

Tried a new ECU, new MAFS, bypassing the FMIC, a whole bottle of carb cleaner, and nothing so far. If you all have any thoughts LMK, that'd be awesome.

ps, adjusted the IAC Valve, helped the low idle a bit (was at ~550) but thats it, nothing with the hesiattion or dying.

[Yellow4g63]

Might be that cold start signal needs to be hooked up?

[skillzilla]

Did some more work on the car and found a few minor vacuum leaks, fixed those and no change. I also treied the IACV, nothing.

So I adjusted the anti-engine stall on my E-Manage, clamped the MAFS signal at 4.0 V and it idled and revved fine, to my surprise. Took the setting off and it ran awesome still

My ECU threw a code for coolant temp sensor, possibly linked to the cold start/running to rich idea you had, 4G.

Thganks yall for the help, its runnin like a beats now, even though I blew a coolant line last night, but thats no biggie.

[Rican_Nick]

glad ya got it all resolved bro.. when ya gonna swing buy.. i need to go for a joy ride. miss having boost