At 249,316 miles yesterday the Q got its first taste of conventional oil in a year and the new Q redesigned oil filter. Plus a can of MOA [111] and BG Quick Clean for engines and 12 ounces of Toyota T4 synthetic ATF..........all in all overfilled by a quart . [34 ounces?]This will be run over the weekend, maybe 250-300 miles and drained Monday and refilled with Mobil 1 and a new filter.
Kind of a let's get some varnish out birthday present.Already at 20 miles the clear oil has turned amber.
Important to drain oil hot as the varnish will just redeposit if the oil gets cool.
Also drained 4 quarts from radiator and refilled with distilled to get the AF concentration down from the winter 50% leaving 3 quarts AF in 10=30%, will do it again Monday except with my Summer 20% mix...........netting something in between. Then the Redline Wetter Water will be added once the mini flushing is complete.
The point is even those with low mileage need a preSummer refreshing to get ready.
Getting ready for 250k party
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nuQ
- Posts: 1659
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- Car: 2003 Infiniti M45
2009 Dodge Caliber SXT - Location: Bethlehem PA
dennis, is ok to add an engine clean/atf mix in the engine for a weekend/200-300 interval?????? was under the impression that an engine clean product was something that was run under idle for 10-20 minutes before a complete drain and new oil added.
i'm due for an oil change and would really like to get my engine as clean as possible (the second oil change since i've owned the Q). thanks!!!! jeff
i'm due for an oil change and would really like to get my engine as clean as possible (the second oil change since i've owned the Q). thanks!!!! jeff
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steelvulture
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 2:37 pm
- Car: 1996 J30t 85k
What about using something like Gold Eagle Oil System Flush? I saw some at Pep Boys. It says to follow a similar procedure that nuQ described, pour in and let the engine run idle for a while, then drain the oil. It also says that it contains no kerosene. I also saw some oil flushes from K&W and Gunk. Anyone have any experience with these?
I need to clean my engine too
Approaching 90K now. Thought I should add something to the engine (the 10-20 min idle and then drain) before the next mobil1 oil change. Engine is running smooth as ever. The ATF flush that I did at 68K, I checked the color, still very pink. Do I need another ATF flush at 90K or wait for another 10K?
Did anyone read about the engine oil sludge problem on the 97-2001 Toyota 2.2L and 3.0L engines? As the manual says 7500 mile/6 month oil change interval for the ULEV engines, more than 300 engines (in 3.3 million) have failed with blue smoke out the exhaust and for other reasons, due to oil sludge/gel deposits within the engine and on valves. What is it on that? The oil recommended by Toyota is the regular conventional oil. Anything to do with oil breakdown after 5K miles? I am almost sure of buying a 99 camry (falls in that category) that has run 48K miles. I want to do an engine clean too, just to be sure. Toyota has extended the engine warranty on all these cars to 8 yrs/unlimited miles to keep customers happy!
PN,1997 Q45, 94K miles.
Did anyone read about the engine oil sludge problem on the 97-2001 Toyota 2.2L and 3.0L engines? As the manual says 7500 mile/6 month oil change interval for the ULEV engines, more than 300 engines (in 3.3 million) have failed with blue smoke out the exhaust and for other reasons, due to oil sludge/gel deposits within the engine and on valves. What is it on that? The oil recommended by Toyota is the regular conventional oil. Anything to do with oil breakdown after 5K miles? I am almost sure of buying a 99 camry (falls in that category) that has run 48K miles. I want to do an engine clean too, just to be sure. Toyota has extended the engine warranty on all these cars to 8 yrs/unlimited miles to keep customers happy!
PN,1997 Q45, 94K miles.
steelvulture wrote:It says to follow a similar procedure that nuQ described, pour in and let the engine run idle for a while, then drain the oil.
All flushes that follow this procedure are dangerous, as they rely on harsh immediate chemical action.All of them I have seen say soem thing like "pan drop may be required in dirty engines " in fine print.
This can mean multiple pan drops,At nearly $500 per this can be expensive, do not use them unless you are confident your engine conrtains no, or nearly no sludge.
I never met anyone that was thinking of an engine flush who could be confident of that.
Fred...
Re: I need to clean my engine too
pnanda16 wrote: 1)Thought I should add something to the engine (the 10-20 min idle and then drain) before the next mobil1 oil change. Engine is running smooth as ever. 2)The ATF flush that I did at 68K, I checked the color, still very pink. Do I need another ATF flush at 90K or wait for another 10K?3) ..more than 300 engines (in 3.3 million) have failed with blue smoke out the exhaust and for other reasons, due to oil sludge/gel deposits within the engine and on valves. 4)What is it on that? The oil recommended by Toyota is the regular conventional oil. 5)Anything to do with oil breakdown after 5K miles? 6)I am almost sure of buying a 99 camry (falls in that category) that has run 48K miles. I want to do an engine clean too, just to be sure. 7)Toyota has extended the engine warranty on all these cars to 8 yrs/unlimited miles to keep customers happy!
1) Consider running a quart of ATF for 30-60 minutes (idle or very gentle driving) in your engine, right before the oil change.And I <do> mean <right> before, this does not mean shut off for 15 minutes while waiting your turn at the oil change place.2)Pink is washed out red, red is what you need, replace transmission fluid.Do a pan drop/clean and filter replacement too.3)The numbers must be higher than these numbers (Toyota sourced?) otherwise no one would have heard of this problem4)+5) Sludge is caused by break down of the base oil, usually this involves locations in the engines that see excessive heat.Frequent oil changes combined w/ syn oil will make this problem disappear.A dino 5w-30 as recommended by Toyota may not be good enough, even a 10w-30 may be an improvement.recently Toyota dealers have upgraded to Valvoline Durablend, perhaps there is a connection (even tho still in 5w-30 :rolleyes)6) At 48k miles the engine is almost certainly way too sludged up to do a harsh "flush", as in pour in idle for 5-10 min and then drain.Check under the valve cover before buying, if you are certain you want this car, consider taking off the valvecovers, handcleaning and then do an "envirolution" type engine flush.Have you considered a same year Maxima? much closer in design philisophy to your Q7) After much handwringing and while I havent checked yet, I am willing to bet money, its to original purchaser only.If it would transfer, that in and of itself would, be worth buying the car (Check)
Fred...
nuQ wrote:fred, so, in your opinion, what is the most thorough, yet gentle way of cleaning the engine before an oil change(without going with the machine flush)? thanks, jeff
Most thorough:
Run a bottle of seafoam the week prior to the oil change takign care to not drive too hard.(Preferable add it when your are between the "full" mark and the "add" mark on your dipstick)Also since the seafoam will dilute the oil some I recommed driving with it for a week <only> if your base oil, is a 40 weight (and I met a seafoam distributor that agrees)Then In addtion, add a full quart of MOBIL1 ATF to your crankcase <right> before changing the oil.Idle for 30-60 minutes, then drain the oil while <hot>.
Fred..
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Q45tech
- Moderator
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
"yet gentle way of cleaning the engine before an oil change(without going with the machine flush)?"
The attempt to add some flush to DIRTY OIL is the killer, the oil has most of its additives depleted so the protection is low.
Unless something strange happens by tommorrow, my method of running a flush works because I limit my rpms to 3,000 rpm [easy accelerations] and the MOA is somewhat protective if an emergency acceleration is required.
Starting out with brand new oil so you can watch the color 3-4 times per day over the 3 day period is key.
Never add a flush to used up brown/black oil always change it then flush then change it again.
Many of these flushes [over the counter are not very strong when a pint or even a quart is diluted by 6 quarts of oil [14%].
ATF is much like 30 weight oil at 212F except the additives are different.
The attempt to add some flush to DIRTY OIL is the killer, the oil has most of its additives depleted so the protection is low.
Unless something strange happens by tommorrow, my method of running a flush works because I limit my rpms to 3,000 rpm [easy accelerations] and the MOA is somewhat protective if an emergency acceleration is required.
Starting out with brand new oil so you can watch the color 3-4 times per day over the 3 day period is key.
Never add a flush to used up brown/black oil always change it then flush then change it again.
Many of these flushes [over the counter are not very strong when a pint or even a quart is diluted by 6 quarts of oil [14%].
ATF is much like 30 weight oil at 212F except the additives are different.
Re: Re: I need to clean my engine too
palmerwmd wrote:1) Consider running a quart of ATF for 30-60 minutes (idle or very gentle driving) in your engine, right before the oil change.And I <do> mean <right> before, this does not mean shut off for 15 minutes while waiting your turn at the oil change place.Cool. Good point!2)Pink is washed out red, red is what you need, replace transmission fluid.Do a pan drop/clean and filter replacement too.Yep, will do a machine flush, then pan drop and filter change, and then fill up the 4 lost quarts (during the pan drop!).
3)The numbers must be higher than these numbers (Toyota sourced?) otherwise no one would have heard of this problem4)+5) Sludge is caused by break down of the base oil, usually this involves locations in the engines that see excessive heat.Frequent oil changes combined w/ syn oil will make this problem disappear.A dino 5w-30 as recommended by Toyota may not be good enough, even a 10w-30 may be an improvement.recently Toyota dealers have upgraded to Valvoline Durablend, perhaps there is a connection (even tho still in 5w-30 :rolleyes)Toyota sourced numbers. 0.01%.6) At 48k miles the engine is almost certainly way too sludged up to do a harsh "flush", as in pour in idle for 5-10 min and then drain.Check under the valve cover before buying, if you are certain you want this car, consider taking off the valvecovers, handcleaning and then do an "envirolution" type engine flush.Have you considered a same year Maxima? much closer in design philisophy to your QDidn't want a 6 cylinder, the toyota 4 cylinder will compensate for the Q in gas guzzling.7) After much handwringing and while I havent checked yet, I am willing to bet money, its to original purchaser only.If it would transfer, that in and of itself would, be worth buying the car (Check)I called Toyota and they are covering anybody with 97-2001 engine with sludge problem (doesn't have to be 1st owner). They took log of my question and the vin# of the car I want to buy. I asked them whether i should still buy the used camry or go for Honda
Fred...
thanks fred! Very useful information, as always!
"Did anyone read about the engine oil sludge problem on the 97-2001 Toyota 2.2L and 3.0L engines? .....I am almost sure of buying a 99 camry (falls in that category) that has run 48K miles. I want to do an engine clean too, just to be sure."~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
AutoRx is a flush product worth looking into for that Toyota. There is a web site for AutoRx and a lot of useful info about it and other oil related items in the forums at bobistheoilguy. Keith
AutoRx is a flush product worth looking into for that Toyota. There is a web site for AutoRx and a lot of useful info about it and other oil related items in the forums at bobistheoilguy. Keith