Gear selection for the 1/4 and some streetability

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Logan76
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Okay, ill soon have a foxbody mustang, I have some mods planned but ill keep them to myself other than my very first mod is getting rid of the stock 5.0 gearing, I plan to either go 3.73 or 4.10, I know 4.10 is going to be harsh on the street but which will be better for me in the 1/4 mile? thanks guys.


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OutToWinPAHC
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Depends on the horspower you are putting down. First off you cant have a super aggressive drag car thats also good for the street.

The higher the rear ratio, the better the launch. But at the same time the higher the gear on the street, the more your gonna pay at the pump.

The 3.73 would be a good choice if this is your daily driver your gonna toy with at the track now and then.

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Logan76
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I got one, decided on 3.55's.

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bball212000
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guy at work loves the 4.10 in his fox(na), another guy at work runs a lot higher gear in his fox, but his is a twin turbo 351(fast doesnt describe how this thing runs).

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Logan76
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Yeah, Ive grown tired of the 3.55's and im ordering up some 4.10s with a new traction lock diff and some 32 spline axles.

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bball212000
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do you work at a ford dealership as i do

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Logan76
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I work at a Mazda/GMC/Buick dealership.

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MeanGreenS13
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4.10 all the way...

justjuiceit4
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My buddy had an automatic Camaro with a 4.10 gears and ran out of rpms at the end of the quarter; he wished he had 3.73. Grant it, he only had a 1:1 final drive for his transmission, you still want to consider what type of trap speeds you think you might run (or at least what other people are running with simular mods).

Now somebody feel free to correct if I am wrong, but typically you should be running at the top of 4th gear in a 5-speed for the best quarter miles times (in a street driven car).......

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Logan76
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I dont know much about drag racing but logic tells me you would want to be at the top of 5th gear in an all out purpose built 1/4 mile car, due to the fact that would be the lowest gearing you could go, without running out of gear for the 1/4.

justjuiceit4
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I thought you were driving this on the street too?

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Logan76
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Hah, I dont even own my mustang anymore. Someone bumped and old thread.

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MeanGreenS13
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4th gear is a 1:1 gear, you will ALWAYS want to come through at the top of your RPM range within your power band in 4th gear. 5th gear is overdrive and is for nothing mroe than highway cruising and gas saving... your not trying to save gas or just cruise at the drag strip... at least i hope not

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MeanGreenS13
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justjuiceit4 wrote:My buddy had an automatic Camaro with a 4.10 gears and ran out of rpms at the end of the quarter; he wished he had 3.73. Grant it, he only had a 1:1 final drive for his transmission, you still want to consider what type of trap speeds you think you might run (or at least what other people are running with simular mods).

Now somebody feel free to correct if I am wrong, but typically you should be running at the top of 4th gear in a 5-speed for the best quarter miles times (in a street driven car).......
curious as to how he is running out of gear, what kind of power is he making/

my buddy steve has an 00 camaro with about 650whp +/- on the bottle running consistnat 10.30s and daily driven, and he's running a 4.10 with no problems at all

justjuiceit4
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I would estimate between 450-500 hp. He was also running 14-inch tires, Indy Profile tires which had really good bite. This was a 400 small block; so the HEI was not good much past 5500 rpm and he was well past that going thru the traps. I think he was right around 110mph for his trap speed with low 12s.

Since I have you attention meangreenS13, I have a few questions for you:How well does the J30 VLSD work for drag racing? Would a welded diff work better? If I had some sticky tires, such as BFG Drag Radials, how much power can they handle before I would have to upgrade to VLSD or welded diff?

What other tricks are needed for S13 to hook up? Do those subframe collars work, which ones do you recommend?

Which flywheel/clutch/pressure plate combo are you using.

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MeanGreenS13
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for drag radials i prefer mickey thompsons and they almost ALWAYS will help you out no matter your HP level.

J30 is good, i have Z32, Welded may work better but will eat up your tires on the street. Subfram collars are a nice thing for sure, ive got the SPL parts slip ins with a full Energry suspension bushings under the car.

your stuck "one tire fire" differential will never hook the same as an LSD/Posi unit. I reccomend always running a vlsd or welded diff. Welding a diff isnt that hard, go ahead and take it to a local race shop and have them weld them up if you want. but like i said, youll go through rear tires REALLY fast

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MeanGreenS13
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just noticed your clutch question. Im eventually going to be going with something better but right now i just have a Nismo disc and pressure plate with stock flywheel. I like heavy flywheels with drag racing, just simply because the rpm's dont fall off as fast when you rev it. that can help get the tires moving with more force behind the whole drivetrain

justjuiceit4
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Yeah, I always have heard that a heavier clutch is better for 60 foot, since it will not tend to bog the engine. However, I was wondering how much a lighter flywheel would hurt 60 foot times...... and how much could be made up for the faster revs going thru the gears.


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MeanGreenS13
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heavier flywheel will help, never use an aluminum flywheel, unless you dont want ankles, if that ****er flys apart, it WILL go through both your tranny bellhousing and tranny tunnell... ive seen it happen, it aint pretty

justjuiceit4
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Hence why you have to use SFI stuff for faster cars.... By the way, do you disconnect your rear sway bar when you run at the track?


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