AppleBonker wrote:Big Three Upgrade
Before we get to some details about tuning and component selection, let’s tidy up the installation phase of things. This upgrade is essential to get the most out of your aftermarket audio setup. The upgrade consists of improving the stock cabling for the electrical that is being used by your amplifier.
First, a larger gauge cable is needed to connect the battery negative to the body chassis. You should know that everything in your car can be grounded to the metal chassis of the car. If you are installing an aftermarket amplifier, you will route positive power cables from the battery to the amp. The negative terminal on the amp will then be connected to the body of the car for a ground. Pop the hood and look at the cable running from the chassis to the negative terminal of the battery. It’s pretty small. To allow current to pass through your system with less resistance, this will need to be larger. I would recommend 0/1 AWG cable for this connection.
Next, the cable from the alternator should also be replaced. Again, 0/1 AWG cable will work the best here. In most cases, you can follow the factory cable with your increase size cable. This helps relieve some of the resistance that the alternator will see when charging the battery. Without this, loud thumps of bass can chew up the voltage from the battery at a rate that the alternator cannot replenish. This will result in a decrease in audio performance, as well as potential dimming of the light sources in your car.
Finally, you will need to improve the grounding of the engine. This mechanical device can add noise to a system by altering the voltage felt by the car. Grounding this with 0/1 AWG cable will reduce this likelihood. All you need to do is locate an bolt on the engine that is not used for something mechanical (obviously, a bolt that seals an opening for oil or coolant would not be a good choice, as this may cause these fluids to leak – not a good idea). See if it is possible to use one of the bolts that is used to mount the engine in place.
Some companies sell grounding kits for cars. These are designed to reduce electrical noise, and may contribute to an increase in performance. Generally, they will include at least a new grounding wire for the engine, as well as the wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis of the car. Be sure when you purchase these that they are of the largest wire gauge available. The other grounding wires will help, but the big three are the primary wires you should be concerned about (in terms of audio performance only).
Same here. It's awesome.Jose3.5 wrote:I already have his kit and I'm happy with it and it looks good.
this is exactly what im thinking also. unless they are using some kind of special wire, but i dont think it is. cuz if this is the case ill buy some wire off of ebay and cut the wire myselfmaxentropy wrote:Isn't this a simple DIY? Buy a long strip of 0 gauge wire, cut it to length for the BIG3 positions and then anchor them down? This doesn't take a rocket scientist... and for the results, it's really not worth paying more than the parts.
Bottom line is, this is for folks that have a lot of high-end electronics in their ride for a cleaner circuit.
Do it Bennet, Just do it!!!!Sentientbydesign wrote:I'm doing some research on how I want these made and then measurements will be taken (maybe this weekend).
Due to the high price of materials, I'm going to ask for some pre-orders to get things moving (once the price has been posted). Forgive me for being paranoid, but dropping upwards of $500 does this to me ------>
sounds like a quote from Arnold in the movie "Commando"... one of myb favorite movies as a young kid... but I could be wrongdangeris wrote:
Do it Bennet, Just do it!!!!
Can anyone guess where that quote is from?