Gauge install

[Second Shadow]

so I got my sr20det installed by a local general mantiance shop (mistake in retrospec, but could only do so much in my town), and first thing on my list was to install gauges. good thing too, since the boost controller was hooked up to the intake before the turbo and was letting me boost up to 18 psi on a mostly stock engine(I made a post about that and didn't get a whole lot of responses, but everything seems to be okay)here if anyone is interested: zerothread?id=348541

anyway, back the topic at hand. got boost meter, water temp, oil pressure, and voltage. I wanted white face, black text, and led backlit electronic gauges. (electronic is no more accurate, but its running a wire to the dash instead of a vacuum or pressure line that can break and spill stuff).and a larger boost meter with the rest being a little smaller

didn't want to blow too much money on this, so for most of my gauges I went autometer ultra-lite 2.(the ultra lights are actually a very light silver face, but you can't really tell the difference, they look fine) there all electronic, voltage and oil are half sweep, water temp is full sweep. although half sweep is fine for oil and voltage, for those of you interested, I would suggest getting full sweep if you can, the installation is a lot easier and cleaner, and you obviously have more accurate data. they are 2 1/16" size

the boost meter seemed to be pretty important, plus I wanted it to read in BAR, (bascially because of an initial D episode, you know the one ) believe it or not, thats not an easy thing to fine in the US. most are PSI, or really small, or not electronic. What I came up with was the defi d-link. this was a bit pricey but was worth it. its metric, white faced, electronic, 60mm(about 2.5") one thing about defi, the new ones go completely black when not on, and then read black face one of many options of colored text, and I think thats lame. the one I got I think has been discontinued, so if you want it I wouldn't waste any time. (correct any of this if I'm wrong).

however, the one I got has green backlighting, which I think is lame as hell. the autometers have white, and it looks fine. so, in definance of lame pastel green, I cracked it open and totally voided my warranty. once open I found out that not only does this gauge have green leds, but the gauge face has a transparrent green tent to it so I couldn't just put super white leds like god intended them to be. instead I went with some blue ones that are strong enough in color to overwelm the green tent. worried that it might not be bright enough, and got one of those rubber flex strips with a bunch of super white leds on them, and wrapped it around the outside of the mechanism. once the case went back on, it was held firmly in place, and wired to a switch in the dash. so now the gauge is blue backlit, with a bright option when needed. the bright still has a slight green tent to it, but looks better than before, and somehow (light transfer though plastic? idk) the half tick marks still show up as blue with the brights on, even if the regular leds arn't on. (note: the lighting in all these, except the bright switch, are wired to turn on with the parking lights, and I put in a dimmer in the dash so to control brightness).

I did the frankensteining to the boost meter at work and didn't have a camera, so I can show the process, but you can see the result, just compare to the website if you want to know what they used to look like.

I made a relay box to power these. turning the key/turning on parking lights powers relays that allow power from the battery to run these. new wires were installed for that power, so I'm not depending on the old dash wiring. I also took the opptertunity to hook up my stock fogs to another switch in the dash, and run wires for a second set of fog lights yet to be installed(also don't have the switch installed yet).

building the relay box.(its mounted under the dash now)

relay box/harness complete

gauges installed

the temp sensor required cutting the upper radiator hose in half, and removing about an inch from it. they make couplers that go between the two cut ends, and have a 1/8 NPT threaded port for a sensor, mine came in green(was blue in the pic on the website...****ing green again! ) I didn't take any pics till I was done, I keep forgetting to take them in process, when its easy to see.

the oil pressure gauge isn't hooked up yet. after looking at where to put the sender, I've decided that and oil filter relocation kit is in order. its going to be a **** hot one, with plans to add a cooler once I've got a new IC, (because the oil cooler is going where the stock IC is now), and an oil temp gauge(I have no idea where to put it though.... )

don't have any pics yet of how they look in the dark, stick around though I'll take/post some once it gets dark here.

[Second Shadow]

btw, can anyone tell me if this is my stock bov? or if not what is it?

[Ilvemynissan]

Your running 18 Pounds with a sidemount? might want to go ahead and upgrade that IMO. And I dont think that's your stock BOV. Did the SR's even come with a BOV from the factory?

[Second Shadow]

Your running 18 Pounds with a sidemount? might want to go ahead and upgrade that IMO. And I dont think that's your stock BOV. Did the SR's even come with a BOV from the factory?

I was running 18 psi on accident, because I didn't have the boost meter installed yet and didn't realize it. it now peeks out at the stock 7 psi. Might want to go ahead check out the detailed post on the topic I provided the link for IMO.

anyway, heres the night pics I promissed, although there a bit blurry, digital cams still haven't found a way to get that right apparrently.

these are the overview pics, one with the boost meter bright off, one with it onI know the blue light in the pic looks like plenty, but its actually not that bright when you see it.