Gaskets or not?

[slaughtermimms]

The valve covers are leaking, not much, however the leaks (both sides) are the rear of the cover and drips on the exhaust. I have been told it will cost $1500(10/hr.labor), is this a bit much? I have the new gaskets sets for both sides. Should I try to do this job my self? Could someone tell me which way I should go. :help

I know this is wrong, should I just keep an eye on it, and add oil as needed?:dunce

[DAEDALUS]

That's the highest rate I've heard so far! What year Q? It is a tough job, but it is doable. There's a good chance you'll have to pull the plenum too, which will make the job tougher still. Have a second car available just in case, and get all your parts from Scottsdale.

[911/Q45]

What year is your car? The early Qs used RTV, I think the 94s started using a gasket. I did my own, I'll bet you could too. Probably will have to replace a few rubber hoses that connect to the valve covers, but they should be replaced anyway. Change the spark plugs while you're in there, very easy then. Leaving the leak and adding oil sounds like a bad option, pretty soon you start thinking of your car as a beater and look for reasons to replace that leaky, smelly thing. Wish you lived closer, I'd help with it. Good luck and keep us posted.

[DAEDALUS]

If you're leaning toward leaving it alone, you can try tighening the bolts down a bit to slow the leaking. If you can work within the volume allowed, clean the seam extremely well, and then RTV over it.

[slaughtermimms]

My Q is 95' with approx. 60000 miles, this the Q that has a working speedo,trip counters but the odometer does not work. Thanks again for your input and advise, do you guys think the 1500 is toooooo much?:thinker

I just drove from Texas to New Jeresy about 2000 miles, of course I would check the oil at ever stop with no change level that I could see. The leaks are drops, not a flood, Thats why I was asking to start with..............not sure how much time I have and or it will get worse?????!!!!!!!!!!!!:thinker

[911/Q45]

Yes, $1500 is too much. Your model has gaskets, so try Daedalus' method of repair before you disassemble and replace the gaskets.

[eQlipse]

So what is RTV? I'm learning more as I read these forums. Great info!

[DAEDALUS]

Room-temp vulcanizing. It's the liquid adhesive used commonly in many industries where a high-temp durable adhesive sealer is needed. Any auto parts store will carry it (much of it). Permatex is the largest brand for automotive applications that I'm aware of. Keep in mind, the higher the temp rating, the thicker the stuff is typically.

[Aus94Q45]

Find a different shop to do the repair. If I recall you should be able to get those covered for about 5 to 6 hours labor. Even if you tighten the old ones they will leak. I tried it, knowing that it was futal, and it was. It will stink up the inside of the car when you run the AC or heater. Not too healthy! Get the spark plugs changed and do not pay extra labor -- they must be removed and refitted as part of the valve cover job. The repair is a pain in the **s. Unless you are a mid-level or better DIY'r leave it to the pros. Lots of difficult bolts and allen heads that fall into the "black hole" -- or worse, can be cross threaded due to many difficult angles. The gasket presses in place an must be carefully lowered onto the heads. You may not know if it seated correctly until you put it all back together and run it. Also, the torques on each must be correct, or the new gaskets may leak. Then you get to do it again! I would pay the $600 and have it done and take that warranty on the workmanship. Drop it off in the morning and pick it up when you go home from work. But that is just my suggestion! I save my DIY inclinations for less tedious jobs (ie. struts/upper links are next) Keeps me in a better mood!

[911/Q45]

Another viewpoint well taken Aus94Q45. I'm pretty sure the plugs don't have to come out to do the valve covers though.

[Q451990]

The plugs don't have to come out to replace the gaskets or vice-versa. You're one step away from replacing plugs at the same time since the coil packs have to be removed to get the rocker covers off so I'd always have that done while you're there... probably adds about 30 minutes labor.

Heath

[reggiegsd]

If you are in NJ now, there are several good mechanics that can handle the job. I have one I prefer and I've seen others recommended on the list. $1500 is TOO MUCH.

If interested, post back.

[PalmerWMD]

I also think $1500 is way too much.Also if the leak is as minor as you describe you could let it be (as long as u dont think of it as a beater).

Also are you running a xw-30 weight oil?Why not run a xw-40, might "fix" your leak all by itself.Even in winter, plenty of 0w/5w-40 available to keep good start-up and still enjoy the benefits of a 40 weight vs a 30 weight.

Fred..

[slaughtermimms]

Again I would like to THINK EVERYONES feedback and input, It realy helps to know there are still people out there that think of more than themselves. If I have not said enough THANKS for looking for the guys that are not in the know! Keep it up!

I know, I didn't have to say all that, because you guys were here way before I showed up with all my problems, THANKS AGAIN!

What palmerwmd said, about using xx-40 weight oil.... along the lines....that I could use some of the additives out there,(not sure about that)do not want to hurt the engine thats utmost in the front of my mind. I saw Mobil 1 that is 0-40 weight, is this ok to use?

reggiegsd, Yes, I'm interested!!!!!!!!!!!I want the Q to be 100%, I did just buy it, and I know it take $$$$$ to make this happen, Now after 2000 miles I can understand, what everyone was saying, that they could not live without there Qs, will guys I'm getting there, and learning at the same time, AGAIN THANKS TO YOU GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!E-mail Me with any info that might help :icesangel

[Aus94Q45]

Of course you guys are right about the plugs! I just recall a small circular portion of the gasket that runs up and around the plug seats, and cannot practically imagine not removeing them. "One step away" is absolutley right -- and at that point you have done all the hard stuff! So I guess I could justify an extra .5 time to replace the plugs, but he should not be quoted seperate book times for the plug change out. In all I would change the gasket -- it will not "heal" and the leak will progressively increase.

[reggiegsd]

I have seen gasket leeks start up immediately after switching to Mobil 1 on older engines. That stuff can find an opening when nothing else can. I still use it, I just expect gasket leaks.

[PalmerWMD]

Most PPL that use Mobil1 use 30 weights.Also MOBIL 1 's 30 weights are notorious for being on the thin side even for a 30 weight.<and> notorious for thinning out easily even more during use, BUT the MOBIL1 0w-40 is a) a 40 weightb) runs in the middle of where a 40 weight is suposed to bec) has overcome intitial scepticism by many about its large spread by virtue of a good oil analysis reports in recent months.

So I am confident you wont have any problem with MOBIL1 0w-40.

Also see:

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....il%2A

Fred...

[DenverQ]

I used to run 5-10w 30 in mobil1 but reading freds very informative articles i have now swiched to Valvline synpower 5w-40

[PalmerWMD]

I used to run 5-10w 30 in mobil1 but reading freds very informative articles i have now swiched to Valvline synpower 5w-40

Some recent developments on which members should be apprised:

Both MOBIL 1 And Valvoline SynPower have had a formulation change relatively recently.

MOBIL1 changed to their SS formulation which was greeted with much sceptisicm , from consumers experience with the last change ( which was from SH to SJ tri synthetic).The change to trisyn having turned out to be a step down in many PPL opnion.However the recent change of MOBIL 1 from trisyn (which was still sold some places as of a couple months ago) to SuperSyn seems to be more successful.

SuperSyn is in essence an attempt to make-up for the mandated (by API SJ and SL) low ppm of ZDDP with a new anti wear additive.

It does appear to have been success ful and in the new supersyn.Sadly the 0w-30,5w-30 amd 10w-30 MOBIL 1 viscosities still fall into the thinner range of what makes a 30 weight.for this reason alone I still stay away from MOBIL1 xw-30's.But the other weights of MOBIL1 are now very good.

Also it used to be impossible to find MOBIL1 0w-40 anywhere but at MB and Porsche dealers making it a non choice ( for lack of availabilty for most all consumers).Now however it is available at most autozones.

Valvoline SynPower used to be the only somewhat available 40 weight oil in or above a group III base oil.And it has recently slipped to a group III base oil.

As such Valvoline SynPower is still an excellent choice in 5w-40.However it is joined by MOBIL1 0w-40 in SS formulation.

Of the two, MOBIL 1 0w-40 has the better base stock, and SynPower 5w-40 is a bit cheaper and has good detergency in higher mile engines.

Making it anybody's choice at this point.

Fred...:thumbup

[Q45tech]

As I said a while ago Mobil 1 10w-30 exceeded the hot minimum oil pressure at idle by 3 psi after 241,000 miles obviously it is not too thin...........prior to the 3,700 mile change the same oil exceeded the minimum by 5 psi so it still hadn't thinned excessively actually oil thickens with miles.

Could it be that the dirty used oil is more like a 40 Weight as the mileage builds........that would be a good idea to design at the thin end NEW knowing it goes up with miles!

Of course every engine will be different depending on bearing clearances.

[PalmerWMD]

MOBIL 1 has repeatedly shown a loss of viscosity in its 30 weights, from 30 down into the 20 weights, some times after only 3000 miles.During hi rpm running such as many members do, this can't help but be a problem w/ pressures and boundary film protection.

Most of this data came from Oil analyses done on VQ30 engines, which come out of the same design bureau as our VH45DE's..

Some oils thicken as they get used ,some thin and some do first thin (shearing VII's) then thickening (oxidation of base oil)

So oil thats thickening as it builds miles, isnt a good oil either (loss of lubricating qualities due to oxidized lubestock), just like an oil thats thinning too much (almost all oils do at least a little of either).

The best solution are stable oils of medium viscosities.

Medium viscosities being defined in my opiniuon by what used to be considered medium in US and still is ,in in non US industrial countries.This means 40 weights.Could a good 30 weight give u great service? Yes . Maybe but why not make the best possible choice we can figure out.IMHO that is 40 weights in stable synthetic oils.

Fred...