Gas in oil, and bad boging ????? VIDEO

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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ShouldaHadaV8
Posts: 365
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:00 pm
Car: 92 hatchback 240sx, j30 diff, TIEN tie-rods
Location: N. FLA

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Ok 96 ka24de in my 92 hatchback 240sx hasn't been drivable since the swap last year (october). eveything was swaped correctly but I have both electrical and fuel issues im not able to fix now that I need a car to get to work. I have gas in my oil, although I've tested the injectors for leaks, I have two working FPRs , I replaced my old walbro 255 with a new one, I replaced the fuel filter ,and hoses. I dont have a compression gauge or fuel pressure gauge, but my engine only has 98k miles. I dont think my piston rings are bad, but if they are I have another block ready for a build.
As for electrical , my fuel pump will only turn on when I turn the cannon plug for the wires a certain way, and my gauges have never worked ( speedo, rev, gas). code 34 wont go away even though I have already replaced both upper and lower harnesses and the sensor, but I'm pretty sure its because the car is bogging so bad. I hooked up a narrow band AFR gauge which said it was leaning out when I hit the gas and the slowly goes pig rich if I let it idle.
Im thinking about buying ECU talk but im not sure if I should just buy new injectors or a fuel pressure gauge???????????
I've replaced all the sensors and tried my skills with a voltmeter!
Sorry for the novel
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiFS4wKx ... 170ad1a413[/youtube]
Since the video I hooked up the narrow band AFR gauge and FINALY painted the car black. And keep in mind the video was shot on a cell phone thats why it sounds like a mean dirtbike


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1KleenS13
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Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:55 pm

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Fuel doesnt compress, and its causeing your knock sensor to go off, it also explains why fuel is getting past the rings and into the oil. You need to verify fuel PSI. At Idle the car should go from rich to lean, when you hit the throttle it should go lean for a second because your allowing alot more air into the engine (obviously). I would say the injectors are leaking or sticking open, and or too high fuel psi, But you cant tell without a fuel psi gauge. Did you check timing?

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ShouldaHadaV8
Posts: 365
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:00 pm
Car: 92 hatchback 240sx, j30 diff, TIEN tie-rods
Location: N. FLA

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I agree there is definition knock occuring thats why I dont think the code is an issue. I visually checked my injectors for leaks and didn't see any, if it was stuck open it would have sprayed when the fuel pump primed, and if there was a leak I should have noticed that the same way....right? I almost bought a Fuel "PSI" gauge at autozone right before I came home and got on here, I had it in my hands it was $55. Im just not sure whether or not thats what I need to be buying but I guess im gonna need it regardless, Im probably going to get a compression gauge for the cylinders as well, but I dont think the rings are bad so I'm going to buy the fuel psi gauge first.

As far as timing I have it on 20 btdc on the pully and when it was hooked up to ecu talk it reads 750 rpms at idle. it idles perfect, dont let the bad sound quality fool you. But I dont have a gun though so i'm not saying its perfect by any means.

But theres always been a noticeable problem when you started it, sometimes it will die maybe 2-3 times untill the ECU adjusts. it just leans out. But normally right when you start the car and it stays running it reads IDEAL, it leans only if you push the gas, and if you just let it idle it will raise one bar every 30 seconds on the AFR gauge untill it just gets super rich?

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1KleenS13
Posts: 233
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:55 pm

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There could be alot of problems that will cause it to go rich. If the ecu is seeing a lean condition from the o2 (even though its not really lean) it will dump more fuel into it, but that should only create the problem in closed loop when the ecu looks at the o2 for fuel trimming. Another problem could be a coolant temp sensor, sometimes they will be stuck at a very low number -40 for example, that will also cause the ecu to dump fuel in the engine. Please do yourself a favor and borrow a timing gun from someone and verify the timing is correct with the engine running.

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ShouldaHadaV8
Posts: 365
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:00 pm
Car: 92 hatchback 240sx, j30 diff, TIEN tie-rods
Location: N. FLA

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I can just buy the timing gun when I go for the fuel psi gauge.... and I already replaced the coolant temp sensor, after this problem was already happening.

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ShouldaHadaV8
Posts: 365
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:00 pm
Car: 92 hatchback 240sx, j30 diff, TIEN tie-rods
Location: N. FLA

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But timing is not my major concern, timing wouldn't cause the excess fuel to get in my oil. I know this is a fuel problem, I'm just not sure if its malfunctioning injectors ,a bad fuel pressure regulator, or electrical problems.......and hopefully not the rings.
it just doesn't make any sense to me???????? :tisk:
and if I keep trying things that dont work i dont want to get cylinder wash and completley be screwed

Justinians_2:40
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:55 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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Besides the other issues, if you have gas in your oil, you need to check your compression, although running really rich can cause this as well, my first guess would still be the rings.

Some things that can cause it to run rich:
-bad coolant temp sensor, it always thinks it cold and is trying to warm it up
-bad O2 sensor, but shouldn't effect idle
-bad MAF sensor could cause it to run in limp mode, but I think there are other symptoms of that, I'll have to check
-knock, if know is detected (which in your case it is) the ECU switches to a different map, I know timing gets retarded, but I believe fuel gets enriched as well

Those are just some off-the-top-of-my-head things, I'll try to look into it a little more and let you know if I come up with something.

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ShouldaHadaV8
Posts: 365
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:00 pm
Car: 92 hatchback 240sx, j30 diff, TIEN tie-rods
Location: N. FLA

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I've already replaced those, except for the MAF. But I tested the MAF off another WORKING 240sx and it made no difference. So anyway Yes I do Agree I need to check compresion but im hoping this isn't the problem. I have another engine block and heads ready to rebuild if it comes down to it.
But I dont think thats going on it idles to good.. :gapteeth:

SOON we will know

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ShouldaHadaV8
Posts: 365
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:00 pm
Car: 92 hatchback 240sx, j30 diff, TIEN tie-rods
Location: N. FLA

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just bought compresion gauge, tomorrow I will run some more tests, we will see if im in the clear on piston rings. I've read that as long as its above 140psi and doesnt vary more than 5psi from cylinder to cylinder it should be ok. i've seen them at 175 across all cylinders.
Im going to pull the fuel pump relay and coil/ spark plugs/ wires. and hold the throttle to the floor and give it about 5-7 cranks
If anyone has any tips before i attempt this for the first time it would be awesome.


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