Gas fumes..running rich..fpr didn't cure it..

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
goofynick6
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Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET

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I'm going nuts. I lowered the fuel pressure, and I tried leaning out the fuel maps in the eprom, but damn, I can't leave it running for more than 20 seconds because the garage fills with gas-filled smoke fumes...

ANy ideas? I don't have an o2 sensor hooked up yet..but would it really make it that bad; even on warmup?

Thanks for any help,

Nick


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xjon
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I think the O2 sensor is one of the most critical sensors on the engine that the ecu interprets. It pretty much tells the ecu on how the engine is functioning. The "end result", if you will.

I'm not the best source and I could be wrong, but why don't you have it hooked up in the first place?

goofynick6
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Don't have one..and didn't wanna install one until I could put in an FPR and maybe cure the richness so I didn't burn out a new o2 sensor..ya know?

I guess I'll goto advanced auto and get any 3 wire o2 sensor that is cheap and wire it in...

Any tips on wiring/extending the wires on the o2 sensor? What wire goes to what?

ANy other ideas what it could be?

Nick

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Nameless EJ6
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Yes, it can make it that bad. It's critical to your ecu.

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BoostFab
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the ecu also relies on the O2 signal for managing the fuel

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JonPowell
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The O2 sensor reads the left over oxygen in the exhaust and calculates what amount of fuel is being burnt. If the O2 sensorisnt there, the ECU is only relying on the MAF and TPS to manage fuel. its like you trying to get around with no hearing or sight, you would probably not do so well either.

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rbsileighty
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Your fuel pressure should be ~3bar at idle. Since you have the ability to control your fuel in the ECU and run over 3 w/ your FPR... I might consider 3.5 if I were you. You ask why... atomization... Leave the FP at stock or slightly higher to assure your droplets are as small as possible. Your 550 injectors should be about 594's (sqrt(350/300)*injector 3 bar flowrate) when run at 3.5 bar... so keep that in mind when tuning.

I'm sure running a O2 sensor wouldn't hurt either... I bet the comp is defaulting to a super rich condition since it doesn't know any better

Hope this helps!

goofynick6
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I"m still running the stock 270cc's right now until I can get it running right, then I'll swap the 550's and tell my EPROM program that I"m using 550's and it recalibrates for me..

I'll get the o2 today and try it. I'm guess the o2 sensor plug is the 3 wire one with the middle wire being thicker than the other 2? The shielded wire is what? signal or ground?

Thanks guys, I"m really close!

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JonPowell
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Shielded should be signal.

goofynick6
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OK.

One more thing...the check engine light is flashing all the time..no codes, just flashing on and off when the key is on..any ideas?

NIck

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Project240
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I didn't have to extend my O2 or MAF wires at all, just cut the sheaths back to the Y in the main harness and I had plenty of slack...

goofynick6
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Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET

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goofynick6 wrote:OK.

One more thing...the check engine light is flashing all the time..no codes, just flashing on and off when the key is on..any ideas?

NIck


I just read this in another post

"When the check engine light flashes that is a warning that cat failure is eminate if you continue to drive it. "

So must be my ecu is just looking for an o2 sensor....

And for the maf wires, I had to cut them anyway because I don't have the plug to plug into it, so I have to hardwire the sensor

NIck


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